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 Post subject: starts but dies shortly after. no cel
PostPosted: Wed Jul 23, 2008 2:57 pm 
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Last night the ol libby with 32k on it finally started to give me problems. Was leaving the pizza joint with the wife. Started it up it ran fine like normal the something like 10 seconds later it just died. No cel, nothing gauges reading normal then low oil light came on when the oil pump wasn't pumping. Turned key forward again and it just cranked and cranked not even trying to start for about 30 seconds. Got out and popped hood pumped the fuel primer a bunch of times then got back in and still just cranking got frustrated and went out and pumped it a bunch more while the wife turned the key and it fired right up like nothing was wrong. ok ok drive home very cautious and nothing the whole ride home... Started it a few times in the garage and was fine. Wrote it off as a fluke. Went to work this morning and wife called and said it did the exact same thing as last night she went under the hood and primed the fuel a bunch of times and started right up.



SO WTF!!!
I changed the fuel filter about a month ago and haven't gotten fuel anywhere different than normal but now having issues.
I already scheduled an appointment at the local stealership tomorrow morn to have it looked at and am afraid to get the call back stating we can't reproduce the problem! I have heard that one many times with my old truck from the blue oval with the 6.uho powerchoke....


any ideas???

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 23, 2008 3:14 pm 
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Perhaps the fuel filter manager head has sprung a leak at the heater. (have you checked the heater connector for leaking fuel?).

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 23, 2008 3:37 pm 
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Mine used to do that when I first got it. Check the "Fuel Injection" Fuse in the power center under the hood next to the battery. It has probobly blown. It's a 25 amp fuse. Just pop another one in and it should star right up.

Mine was blowing fuses every so often until the dealer traced a exposed wire behind the Brake cylinder. There is a sharp edge back there where the wiring harness can rub through over time.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 23, 2008 4:04 pm 
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it is not home right now but I didn't notice any fuel leaks anywhere when I was looking around at it last night but anything is possible and the wires I haven't looked at either. I will look tomorrow morning before we leave to drop it off. As far as the fuse it will eventually start so I don't see how a blown fuse would make it momentarily not run then work again without changing the fuse. But I will check all fuses too just to be safe.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 23, 2008 6:14 pm 
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Given the recent fuel filter change, and that the problem went away after priming, I'd bet $20 its an issue with air getting into the fuel system through the filter head. I remember folks forgetting to make sure the old O ring came off with the old filter, leading to doubling up and leaks, too much torque warping the plastic, too little torque allowing leaks, etc...

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 23, 2008 8:27 pm 
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well the wife left from work and had to prime it and she said it ran like crap when it did start. It shifts very weird she said and it struggles to keep up with traffic. but she is doing 60-65 mph at 2k so it seems to be in the right gear but still no power. Sounds like the fuel filter is plugged to me but I won't know till she gets home so I can take a look at it.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 24, 2008 1:17 am 
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Is it bucking and sluggish between 55 and 65 mph, or under hard acceleration? That is the classic air in fuel symptom for these Liberty CRDs.

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235/75/16 Firestone Destination ATs (summer)
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V6 airbox mod
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Edge EZ module (set for fuel economy)
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TDIWagonGuy CCV filter
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 Post subject: Trick to find the leak
PostPosted: Thu Jul 24, 2008 8:03 am 
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If you can pump it up with the hand primer, you have an air leak. Filter head is the number one cause.
Before you go to the dealer pump and bleed it out until you get no more bubbles.
Then pump up the primer until it is firm and keep pushing hard on the hand primer for at least a 60 seconds. This will put pressure on the filter head and if you have an air leak at the heater plug, fuel will leak out under pressure and the dealer will replace it under warranty if you still have some left. I helped out two other CRD owners in my town with this trick and they got theirs replaced.
Don't worry about having the hoses burst, come off, or having fuel spray in your face, you will rip the filter head off the fire wall before you create too much pressure.
If you find a fuel leak some where other than the heater plug such as at the filter gasket or hose fix that as well.

Another, but rare source of leak is the quick snap on flex line between the tank and fuel line. The flex line was designed to be used under pressure and not designed to be used under a vacuum.

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 Post subject: Re: Trick to find the leak
PostPosted: Thu Jul 24, 2008 4:24 pm 
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I think this was my problem - leaking at the flex line connectors (vacuum). I see no air at all post in-tank pump install.

Mark

warp2diesel wrote:
Another, but rare source of leak is the quick snap on flex line between the tank and fuel line. The flex line was designed to be used under pressure and not designed to be used under a vacuum.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 24, 2008 11:39 pm 
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well I didn't get a chance to really look at the libby before we brought it to the dealer but I got a call back today and they told me that the fuel heater had melted and was leaking a small amount of fuel and that was giving me the problems. They had to order a new one from the whse in town and it should be back up and running tomorrow afternoon.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jul 25, 2008 1:57 pm 
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cumminsmannow wrote:
well I didn't get a chance to really look at the libby before we brought it to the dealer but I got a call back today and they told me that the fuel heater had melted and was leaking a small amount of fuel and that was giving me the problems. They had to order a new one from the whse in town and it should be back up and running tomorrow afternoon.


Yep. That's a symptom of air-in-fuel since the heater is at the very top and it'll burn out and melt itself rapidly if there's only air to transfer the heat to. I haven't had any complaints or issues after I installed a lift pump. The pump plunger is nice and firm permanently and I'd recommend a tank pump (either the cummins or third-party) for anyone with a CRD.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 30, 2008 9:20 pm 
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well I will definately be looking into one so this doesn't happen again. Thanks for all the advice.

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