SEGR/ORM Kit Builder's Thread

UFO · **Posted:** Wed Jul 23, 2008 1:28 pm

Black05CRDLTD wrote:

If I had poor continuity on one of my connections or the heavy solder I mentioned, would that trigger these codes? Just have to be sure before I head back to the dealership. Don’t want them poking around and finding the SEGR.

That is possible.

aandlwoods · **Joined:** Mon Jun 09, 2008 4:53 pm **Posts:** 96

UFO wrote:

aandlwoods wrote:

Hello all and thank you in advance for the help. I got my SEGR kit wired in and was fairly confident that everything was going to be ok. I got a CEL with the P0130 code and i checked and its a heated O2 sensor.... Admittedly i didnt do the circuit test before wiring the kit in but i had a good reason. I didnt understand how to do it. I even looked at the alternate test by gmctd. I have the segr wired in and was wondering if there was a way to test everything while it was wired to the vehicle. I gave up on the test prior to splicing because i didnt understand how i could remove the resistor. Any ideas what could be wrong? If someone could please give me the barney style to test the circuit i would really appreciate it. I used to be in the Marine Corps and im used to having everything broken down very simply.

The Jeep runs and i did get 30+mpg on the highway and normal boost and fuel pressure readings.

As far as I know, the CRD does not have an O2 sensor (but I've been wrong before). If you have a bypass plug, install it and clear the codes to see if they re-appear. If not, I can get you one. Other than that, I don't know of a test that will verify correct operation other than what you've already done. Re-verifying the wiring is always a good starting point; the MAF wires are commonly swapped, with pin 1 going to the ECM instead of to the MAF sensor, like it should.

If you care to send me the box, I can test it electrically, no charge. Just pay postage.

I think that i would like to go this route with you. Thank you very much for the offer. I dont have a bypass plug so please PM me the price and everything and i will get the money over to you. After i put the bypass in i will probably ship the box to you to get it checked out. Thank you very much. I drove today with the box open resting on the steering column and i couldnt hear any clicking but i know for a fact i was getting better mileage compared to before. I made sure the wiring was good to the best of my knowledge. Interestingly before i posted on here i swapped the MAF wiring just to see if i was interpreting the diagram wrong and got the P0120 code that the other poster is having problems with. That one is gone now and replaced with the P0130 i have now. Can autozone clear the codes as well as pull them from the computer?

UFO · **Posted:** Wed Jul 23, 2008 6:15 pm

aandlwoods,

PM sent. Autozone is capable of resetting the codes. Even if the SEGR isn't working, the EGR, MAF and AFC will be disabled, giving you the benefits, but obviously the CEL will light.

aandlwoods · **Joined:** Mon Jun 09, 2008 4:53 pm **Posts:** 96

I just went and had the codes cleared at the local auto parts store. I did have a p0130 code but now after the clear and another engine cycle i have the P0120. He did say that the code he pulled had something to do with the mass airflow sensor high or something... any ideas guys? Im going to get a bypass plug and then send the assembly to get it checked by UFO sometime next week.

msilbernagel · **Posted:** Wed Jul 23, 2008 11:19 pm

MAF high could be an indication of a) disconnected MAF or b) connected to the wrong thing? You could go back and check for continuity between the pins at the sensor (on the air intake) and the splice in the harness... ? If you can get a low impedence from the splice to the connector - i'd lean to, perhaps, looking a little closer at the wires under a good light? You could also cross-check between the connector at the ECM and the MAF connector - to help rule out b).

Mark

aandlwoods wrote:

I just went and had the codes cleared at the local auto parts store. I did have a p0130 code but now after the clear and another engine cycle i have the P0120. He did say that the code he pulled had something to do with the mass airflow sensor high or something... any ideas guys? Im going to get a bypass plug and then send the assembly to get it checked by UFO sometime next week.

kntrygurl · **Posted:** Fri Jul 25, 2008 12:09 am

do you have kits left? are they still around 200 to get it and get it all wired up

LocoCRD · **Posted:** Fri Jul 25, 2008 12:55 am

Yep still have a couple. PM sent

SBosco · **Posted:** Wed Jul 30, 2008 2:39 pm

LocoCRD wrote:

Yep still have a couple. PM sent

I bought a kit a while ago from you and was planning on soldering it up myself but got lazy. I'm not really experienced with circuitboards, and I don't want to mess anything up, especially with the adendum to the original plans. Is there still someone willing to assemble and solder everything together so all I have to do is install the unit in the Jeep?

If so, who is it, and do you know any other details? ie. typical costs (shipping, fee, etc), turnaround time, etc?

Thanks again.

UFO · **Posted:** Wed Jul 30, 2008 4:59 pm

SBosco wrote:

LocoCRD wrote:

Yep still have a couple. PM sent

I bought a kit a while ago from you and was planning on soldering it up myself but got lazy. I'm not really experienced with circuitboards, and I don't want to mess anything up, especially with the adendum to the original plans. Is there still someone willing to assemble and solder everything together so all I have to do is install the unit in the Jeep?

If so, who is it, and do you know any other details? ie. typical costs (shipping, fee, etc), turnaround time, etc?

Thanks again.

Yes, I am still available to do this, including building a harness. I've been charging $175, and I can turn it around in two weeks.

aandlwoods · **Joined:** Mon Jun 09, 2008 4:53 pm **Posts:** 96

Is there a way to test the circuit while it is in the vehicle with the resistor connected?

UFO · **Posted:** Thu Jul 31, 2008 10:51 am

aandlwoods wrote:

Is there a way to test the circuit while it is in the vehicle with the resistor connected?

The only way to know if the box is working in vehicle is if your CEL stays off. The bench test is quite simple, and you don't have to disconnect the resistor if your 12V supply can source more than 1/2A. All you need is a voltmeter, the 12V source and (3) 10k ohm resistors to tap the 12V and make a 4V input into the MAF input (pin 1).

aandlwoods · **Joined:** Mon Jun 09, 2008 4:53 pm **Posts:** 96

Thanks UFO. I just checked continuity between my diodes and D1 is allowing current in both directions. I get a 630 reading the 'right' way on all 3 diodes and 0 on D2&3 opposite direction. Is D1 supposed to be like that or is it fried?

UFO · **Posted:** Thu Jul 31, 2008 12:30 pm

aandlwoods wrote:

Thanks UFO. I just checked continuity between my diodes and D1 is allowing current in both directions. I get a 630 reading the 'right' way on all 3 diodes and 0 on D2&3 opposite direction. Is D1 supposed to be like that or is it fried?

Without knowing exactly what meter in what range you are using (my meter has a diode setting), it's possible you may have an issue with the diode, but set your resistance mode to a low range as D1 has 10k in parallel with it, where the other two will measure just like diodes in circuit. The best way to test it is to lift one lead from the PCB.

aandlwoods · **Joined:** Mon Jun 09, 2008 4:53 pm **Posts:** 96

UFO wrote:

aandlwoods wrote:

Thanks UFO. I just checked continuity between my diodes and D1 is allowing current in both directions. I get a 630 reading the 'right' way on all 3 diodes and 0 on D2&3 opposite direction. Is D1 supposed to be like that or is it fried?

Without knowing exactly what meter in what range you are using (my meter has a diode setting), it's possible you may have an issue with the diode, but set your resistance mode to a low range as D1 has 10k in parallel with it, where the other two will measure just like diodes in circuit. The best way to test it is to lift one lead from the PCB.

I actually took the whole thing off the board and tested it and it checked out. It didnt click that it had that one parallel with it and that could be making the reading different than the others....

Drewd · **Joined:** Mon Feb 06, 2006 12:24 pm **Posts:** 902

Disregard...

Drewd · **Joined:** Mon Feb 06, 2006 12:24 pm **Posts:** 902

Ok, found my answer. They are both the same.

I'm getting P1140 and P0102 with my SEGR. I'm so frustrated after working on the vehicle in the hot sun that I'm about ready to leave it unlocked in the bad side of town.

dgeist · **Posted:** Fri Aug 08, 2008 9:49 am

Anyone out there have an extra plug for a bypass unit. I've been running the SEGR for almost a year and I'm wondering if the EGR is silenlty sucking my fuel economy. I'd like to plug it back in to see if it codes, but I don't have that extra molded plastic unit for a bypass plug.

Dan

aandlwoods · **Joined:** Mon Jun 09, 2008 4:53 pm **Posts:** 96

go to digi-key.com and use tims parts list and just get the stuff to make ur own bypass plug. Or UFO might help...

dgeist · **Posted:** Fri Aug 08, 2008 2:22 pm

aandlwoods wrote:

go to digi-key.com and use tims parts list and just get the stuff to make ur own bypass plug. Or UFO might help...

Yeah...hoping to not have to make an order to digikey if someone happened to have one in exchange for.... a six pack?

blacksmoke · **Posted:** Wed Aug 13, 2008 9:11 pm

Well, this is weird! I've got my box checked by UFO (thanks for your help!) and it was fine. I placed it back in the circuit and the CEL was still showing the same code after a reset. I then did the following
- unplug & replug the CPU connector
- open the airbox and cleaned the 2 sensors with a basic carb cleaner.
- open the big air connector in front of the EGR valve, put a ton of carb cleaner into the valve opening and start playing with the metal plate, closing and opening it a couple of times. Restart the engine, reset the code and it showed up again

I start playing with the metal plate which was still in the horizontal position, and it resist any gentle move: the actuator was seemingly working fine...
- shutdown the engine again, played with the metal plate again (because I was bored and was kinda absent-minded at this point). Closed everything back and call the day off.
- just to make sure, I restart the engine, reset the code and voila!!! no more code! No clue which one actually corrected the situation, but I'm back in business!

Thanks all for your support with this!

SEGR/ORM Kit Builder's Thread

Who is online