well i have never had a engine block heater on any of my past cars and well what dose it really do. i plunged it in last night and it didn't seam to change the way it started. is there any way i can tell its working i know the outside plug was working because i unplugged Christmas lights and and use the same outlet for the engine block heater.

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02 liberty soprt
silver
no lift
firestone Destination m/t 225/75/16
soon to have {hella 500 and yakama roof rack}

I don't think you will really notice anything except that it should start a little better/easier when its really cold. As far as I understand it, its nothing more than an element that generates heat for the engine, so that its not frozen solid when you try to start 'er up in the morning.

when you plug it in, you will be able to hear it working. it's a light hissing sound but usually has to be fairly quiet to hear it. or if it is dark when you plug it in, you can watch and you will probably see a spark when you plug it in (usually easier to see from the end that plugs into the wall socket). a ohm meter will tell you as well if you get some resistance or continuity between the two plug in blades. typically people just listen to hear it hissing.

I actually bought the part from mopar hoping to install it myself until I realized that its a major ordeal. Basically, its a heating element much like what you would find in a hot water heater in your basement (only smaller). It installs into a port on the engine block that communicates with your collent system. It keeps the coollent system warm when plugged in. If you have ever tried starting your car when its 20 below outside and its been sitting overnight it cranks a bit before starting. The EBH will prevent this and it will start right up. Its not so important for fuel injected cars but it was a MAJOR help in my old carbed CJ.

By the way...Its a $20 part. I asked my local dealership how much the installation would run and they told me 4 hours of labor and about $350. Not worth it!

Hope this helps.

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Mike NY, New York
2004 KJ Sport 3.7L
PIAA DLs, K&N, Airraid Throttle Body Spacer (doesn't do squat)
Mag, Fire Mounted, EVIC upgrade
Thule rack with fairing, BVG rack, Mopar Skids, Hitch
Revo 245/75R16

Is it so much work because of where the port is located? There must be more to it than meets the eye......

From what the directions say, and I use the word directions as it is a single piece of scrap paper with a scribbled diagram of the process, you have to gain access to the side of the block. that means removing the battery and box, removeing the startr motor and yadda yadda yadda. It just seemed like its more trouble then its worth. thats when I called jeep and they told me "Yup...thats what you gotta do. take about 4 hours and $350 buks labor" I said thanks but no-thanks.

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Mike NY, New York
2004 KJ Sport 3.7L
PIAA DLs, K&N, Airraid Throttle Body Spacer (doesn't do squat)
Mag, Fire Mounted, EVIC upgrade
Thule rack with fairing, BVG rack, Mopar Skids, Hitch
Revo 245/75R16

I don't usually worry about plugging in my block heater until it is -20 C or colder (around -4 F).

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'02 Liberty Limited - Patriot Blue

I remember in the ARMY we use to use glow plugs and block heaters in the winter months even in So Carolina where I was stationed. I'm not sure if they are really for gas fuel injected vehicles? Warm is always better than cold though for combustion chambers though..

Starting diesel engines during cold weather can be frustrating if engines are not properly prepared for lower temperatures. Batteries that are weak may not crank the starter motor fast enough or long enough to start a cold engine. As the temperature goes down, so does battery capacity. A battery that has all of its power available at 80 degrees F will have only about 46% available power at 0 degrees F. Plus, the engine will be 2.5 times harder to start at 0 degrees due to thicker oil and resistance to movement of internal moving parts. In effect, an engine is about five times harder to start at 0 degrees F than at 80 degrees F. Test weak or suspicious batteries under load before cold weather to help eliminate potential problems during busy times. If batteries need replacement, always replace with a battery equal to or more powerful than the original battery. Accessories such as radios, air conditioners, heaters and other high amperage devices put extra strain on batteries. Turn all of these devices off while the starter motor is in use.

i've changed many block heaters and it's fairly simple and not too messy after you've done it a couple times and get fast enough, otherwise its like changing the oil filter and you need a bucket to catch a few litres of antifreeze while you get antifreeze all down your sleeves. it really is a easy job, but i havent been under the liberty yet so don't know how easy the location is to get at.

my first chrysler 383 had 2 block heaters, one on each side - didn't matter if it was -20c or colder, start her up and she was blowing enough heat already to clear the windows.

if you don't want to install a block heater into the engine block, there are inline block heaters that you simply install into your radiator hose and they work well enough just need a little longer time to work, ie 3 hours instead of 2 hours plugged in on a typical winter day.

http://store.trackerdesigns.com/Merchan ... 5_3017.jpg

in electronics class i was taught a car battery @ -10c (14f) was at 50% power and for every 1 degree celcius drop it loses 10% of its remaining power (not 10% of its total rated power, but 10% of the remaining 50% and so on) though this was many years ago and batteries have gotten better since.

as for the "battery equal to or more powerful than the original battery" i was also taught that a battery rated higher than original would put a lot more strain on the alternator and do more harm than good, especially during colder months. i'd never go with a larger battery myself, there is no need if a block heater is used or if you live in a really cold area then a battery warmer/block heater is the best bet.

Black jeep, If you ever figure out an easy way to install it into a KJ let me know. I have the part, just seems like alt of work. Thanks

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Mike NY, New York
2004 KJ Sport 3.7L
PIAA DLs, K&N, Airraid Throttle Body Spacer (doesn't do squat)
Mag, Fire Mounted, EVIC upgrade
Thule rack with fairing, BVG rack, Mopar Skids, Hitch
Revo 245/75R16

You likely won't see a difference in startup unless the temps are extremely cold. Up here in Sudbury, Ontario this past week we've been dealing with temps down to -4*F each night.

The block heater simply keeps the engine coolant warm which in turn keeps the engine oil warmer for easier startup. For those with the CRD, the main concern would be with the congealling of the diesel fuel.

Normally when you do plug in you'll hear a slight hum coming from the engine bay.

When I wanted to install a block heater in my 3.1 Chevy Monte Carlo with a transverse V6, the process was way too involved to make it worth it. To do so would require tilting the engine (major PITA), pulling out the frost plug, draining coolant, installing block heater, hoping thatonce installed it wouldn't leak and rebolting down the engine. I installed an inline radiator heater in 20 minutes... much easier and cheaper.

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*'''''''*
roadpup

will do, i'll go under with the camera this evening when i get home and post results

{as for the "battery equal to or more powerful than the original battery" i was also taught that a battery rated higher than original would put a lot more strain on the alternator and do more harm than good, especially during colder months. i'd never go with a larger battery myself, there is no need if a block heater is used or if you live in a really cold area then a battery warmer/block heater is the best bet.}

Hi, Why would a more powerful battery be harder on your alternator? Either way your alternator would be charging at the same rate it would the norm size battery? Also being a stronger battery would loose less charge than the norm /stock one requiring less charge from the alternator. Just wondering,not sure myself..

I think if i needed a new battery iw ould get one of these optima ones..
http://www.tellico4x4.com/catalog/produ ... s_id/18634

I cant wait to start using my block heater this winter....as soon as my Jeep is fixed that is...as you can see I miss it! It was bruetal this past week seeing 2 snow storms and not having it to play with.

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Pre-Lowered 02 Liberty
2.5" Rustys Coil w/ Ranchos in the rear.
ARB, OME927's, 1/4 strut plate and Als Gen 4.5 Uppers in the front.
Flowmaster Super 40 Series (GONE, SO QUIET!)
245/75/16 Kumho KL-78 w/ Spidertraxxxxx
Ripped out the plastic inner wheel liners
Herculined ALLLL over.....

The battery part depends on what rating you are talking. If you are looking at CCA or cold cranking amps, it won't hurt to get something better (higher number). I run the highest CCA I can find because Minnesota winters kill batteries and the more power I have starting, the better chance I have to start. When this battery kills I will get an optima though.

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'02 KJ Sport V6 4x4
3/8" Clevis lift
Rusty's 2.5 lift
255/70/R16 Fleet Farm All Terrain (yes they work)
Class 3 hitch
Hellas
Police Scanner/CB radio
LOST #: JH061986

Hi. well from what i learned mismatching your charging system and battery is bad. today's web searching from hell does not seem to support my learning so maybe ignore what i said. the only reference i could find talked about changing 'types' of batteries so my information could be as dated as I am. i remember filling my batteries with water.
http://www.uuhome.de/william.darden/carfaq7.htm first couple paragraphs, but the whole page is a good read. top-link url is CAR AND DEEP CYCLE BATTERY FAQ


anyhoo i was under the jeep and here is a picture.


it's not too bad a location, i put the jeep on ramps and it was a little high (ie neck cramp city) when reaching. working underneath like this i would drain the coolant from rad then allow the coolant to drain from frost plug while removing, will be difficult to pull and replace quick enough not to make a big mess.

you can see a hex nut with the teflon tape to the left of the block heater. this is where i would drain the block from - then use a punch and hammer a hole or drill a hole into the frost plug and pry it out with a screwdriver or the punch itself.

putting in the block heater is simple as well, loosen the screw so you can wiggle the block heater in there then tap it in around the edges and tighten the screw.

What I want to know is how you ended up with a Liberty WITHOUT a block heater in your "neck of the woods"? Holy crap- evryone around Minnesota has one standard, and I can't imagine it's much warmer up there this time of year....

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'04 Silver Sport

our jeep came with one, im just posting where and how simple it is to do. although our dodge Avenger did come without one when we bought it but dealer put one in for free (inline) problem was the car started 100x easier when it wasn't plugged in. when it was plugged in, it acted flooded with long cranking and sputtering and stalling etc, terrible.

it can still be a optional part up here i have noticed but i have never installed one from scratch before. always been replacements