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 Post subject: Rotational sound from rear
PostPosted: Sun Sep 28, 2008 2:21 pm 
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My KJ started making a rotational noise from the rear a few weeks ago. It doesn't do it much while accelerating, but when driving at a constant speed, and while slowing down it does it alot and it's getting worse. It's kind of a wub wub wub type of sound, but I don't feel it shaking or vibrating. I've gotten the tires rotated and balanced, and the rear diff fluid changed but it's still doing it. I'm taking it to a mechanic tomorrow, but would really appreciate any input before I go.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 28, 2008 2:31 pm 
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u joint?
brakes dragging just a bit maybe, well of course you have drums but still maybe

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 28, 2008 2:42 pm 
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tommudd wrote:
u joint?
brakes dragging just a bit maybe, well of course you have drums but still maybe


Started shortly after I had the front rotors, calipers, and pads replaced. The worked on the rear drums at the same time. Could that be it? Or do you think it's maybe the u joint doesn't like the extra set of rear isolators that were added a little before the brakes were redone?

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June 2001 Liberty Limited 4X4
Frankenlift II Premium, Al's Upper Arms, 245/75R16 C Silent Armors on Moabs, RL Skink Super Sliders, Rear DTT, Riddler Diff Cover, Fastman Throttle Body, Profinish-Proglass Hood, Borla Dual Outlet Exhaust, TransGo Reprogramming Kit, APS Stall Converter, 4.10 Gears, B&G Chrysler PCM, Lots of Line-X, etc...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 28, 2008 2:46 pm 
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KY Liberty wrote:
tommudd wrote:
u joint?
brakes dragging just a bit maybe, well of course you have drums but still maybe


Started shortly after I had the front rotors, calipers, and pads replaced. The worked on the rear drums at the same time. Could that be it? Or do you think it's maybe the u joint doesn't like the extra set of rear isolators that were added a little before the brakes were redone?
You may have a loose spring inside the rear drums.The bottom spring that holds the bottom of the shoes is known for popping off and you will get some noise from that.Either that or the rear shoes are set to tight.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 28, 2008 2:53 pm 
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That sounds like a better problem than the u joint being bad. All of the brake work is under warranty from Midas still.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 28, 2008 3:42 pm 
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if they have been in there working on the rear brakes then I would go there first

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03 OVERLAND EDITION /Kilby-Skidrow-Mopar-4XGuard skids/ 2.5 inch TOTAL CONTROL JBA coilovers -JBA Arms/MOABS-31 FALKEN WILDPEAK AT3W / 4.10's etc, 04 Kilimanjaro Edition loaded, plus 05 KJ limited


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 29, 2008 5:40 pm 
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Got the rear brakes checked today. The drums were worn really badly, so I got them replaced. Didn't help with the noise at all. So far, Midas, and the dealership have both said that it sounds like a bearing in the rear diff. Midas quoted about $300 to fix it, and the dealership quoted about $1000. I'm going to take it over to Cottman and have the owner take a look at it. He did my 4.10's, shift kit, and torque converter. He's the only one in town I really trust to do transmission and differential work. I'm thinking that if the rear diff needs to be torn apart, it would be a good time to replace the factory LSD with the TrueTrac I've been wanting.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 29, 2008 5:55 pm 
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The rotation sound you're getting sounds very similar to what I had happen in my '99 Ram. The clutch packs in the limited slip assembly had completely come apart. I did notice on mine that the noise was slightly worse during right hand turns and was slightly less during left hand turns. IIRC, it cost me in the neighborhood of $500 to get it repaired.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 29, 2008 6:19 pm 
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KW AV8R wrote:
The rotation sound you're getting sounds very similar to what I had happen in my '99 Ram. The clutch packs in the limited slip assembly had completely come apart. I did notice on mine that the noise was slightly worse during right hand turns and was slightly less during left hand turns. IIRC, it cost me in the neighborhood of $500 to get it repaired.


If I've got the same problem it really sounds like I should do the TT upgrade. Is this the right one for the rear of our KJ's?

http://www.drivetrainspecialists.com/categories/truetrac/products/product-5409.html

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Frankenlift II Premium, Al's Upper Arms, 245/75R16 C Silent Armors on Moabs, RL Skink Super Sliders, Rear DTT, Riddler Diff Cover, Fastman Throttle Body, Profinish-Proglass Hood, Borla Dual Outlet Exhaust, TransGo Reprogramming Kit, APS Stall Converter, 4.10 Gears, B&G Chrysler PCM, Lots of Line-X, etc...


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