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 Post subject: EMISSIONS FAILURE
PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2008 11:28 am 
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Location: ashland N.H.
I need help guys,I just bought the wife a 2005 CRD and failed emissions because of Check Engine Light.I crd has had 2 EGRs,1 turbo,and 2 EGR coolers.I thought it would pass because it passed MASS inspection with sniffer.Apparently in NH if there is a CEL you fail,I have 60 days to repair Emissions,Luckily I ordered SEGR 3 days prior to failure.This is where the jeep is at for mods 1)Edge trail,2)Runs on WVO.This is my 5th Diesel and been around them my whole life (third generation trucker),but this lil gem has me scratching my head.I don't think the Flow control valve has been replacedor cleaned.I have a spare cleaned EGR cooler,I just need to know what needs to be done proir to SEGR install to keep light off and Computer happy when we hook up to OBD State "Scanner".The mechanic is a good friend of mine and told me if i found out thr correct procedure he would do it right before SEGR install.Also do I need to disconnect EDGE trail when getting scanned?Thanks guys,just don't want the wife thinking i was afool to get into this jeep waist high.I love that lil SUV and my diesel Excursion is getting jealous of"ol'BLUE".thanks much for any and all info to help.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2008 11:42 am 
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What codes are being thrown?

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2008 3:03 pm 
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I believe it was PO401(insuffient flow to EGR),as well as Turbo Under boost,I believe that one is old as turbo has been replaced 24,000 miles ago.Like I said its had 2 replaced EGRs and two EGR coolers but not the flow indicator thingy(sorry newbie).I have a cooler thats been cleaned, and bought assemblied SEGR (coming in about two weeks) what do ya think would be next course of action as Mr.Mopar is playing DUMB.I am not new to diesels, just this one and trying to self teach as I go.Is there currently a tuner that will make code go away as well as the trace for 2 complete cycles? I love this rig and as soon as I get the mechanical issues squared away plan to mod the hell outta it,so I'm looking out for my best interests.............thank you.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2008 3:34 pm 
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I bet that when you install the SEGR it will make the code go away after a proper installation..... BUT that's just speculation.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2008 3:37 pm 
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vegiH wrote:
I believe it was PO401(insuffient flow to EGR),as well as Turbo Under boost,I believe that one is old as turbo has been replaced 24,000 miles ago.Like I said its had 2 replaced EGRs and two EGR coolers but not the flow indicator thingy(sorry newbie).I have a cooler thats been cleaned, and bought assemblied SEGR (coming in about two weeks) what do ya think would be next course of action as Mr.Mopar is playing DUMB.I am not new to diesels, just this one and trying to self teach as I go.Is there currently a tuner that will make code go away as well as the trace for 2 complete cycles? I love this rig and as soon as I get the mechanical issues squared away plan to mod the hell outta it,so I'm looking out for my best interests.............thank you.


Carefull, there's a poster here that uses that handle and he is a valuable insider :?
For whatever reason, maybe they just don't understand the beast, dealer mechanics overlook the Flow Control Valve (FCV) when attempting to resolve EGR issues. You can try removing the charged air hose from it to see if the flapper is free. It's springloaded open. The original 05 FCV's had plastic gears and they didn't last long. A stuck closed valve could give you a low boost. The MAP sensor on these things get gubbered up pretty bad. They are located on the top of the intake manifold and held in by a allen head screw. You'll need to move the wiring harness thing to get to it. I use spray carb cleaner, tooth brush and compressed air on mine :lol:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2008 3:56 pm 
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Sorry about that,really is a small world,At the dealer I use (Ddge and jeep),theres aguy that is the service manager we call him Mr.mopar.On all other encounters(2 cummins and one gassers) always a good guy,when he heard of issue he acted like recall money comes out of his own pocket.I understand it must be a commom useage of term,sorry for mis-itteration.Reference was of MY sevice manager without real name.That said thanks for input,I'll start poking around on ol'blue this week-end.By the by am i the only one with a CRD converted to WVO on here?You guys have alot of info on here keep up the good work.............H

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2008 4:23 pm 
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vegiH wrote:
By the way am i the only one with a CRD converted to WVO on here?


People here are kind of shy about using WVO possibly because of the price of the CP3 pump and the pressure on the rail. I just checked the "alternative Fuels" forum and on the first page there was no WVO threads :? Keep us posted on how it works out long term :)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2008 5:07 pm 
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I have used WVO in a blend but have never installed a heated system. If I had access to more Veg oil here I might consider it but Veg is hard to come by in this neck of the woods. I have ran my CRD on WVO, HHO, biodiesel, WMO and other fuels. Lately I have mostly used WMO but the % that it will burn cleanly is very low, only 25%. Today I put 5 gallons of brand new compressor oil in it which someone gave me. As for the cost of a new CP3, I have already paid for a new one several times over with the fuel savings, they are unbelievably tough.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2008 5:19 pm 
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A combination of the P0401 (EGR Flow insufficient) and a P0299 (Underboost) usually points to an EGR valve that is still working but sticks more often than not. The P0401 is from it not opening fast enough (or at all one time), and the P0299 is from it sticking open at some time and too much exhaust bypassing the turbine. I just had to fix a car due to this (long story, friend of a friend knew someone...) so I'd recommend pulling the EGR valve assembly, removing the solenoid from the top of it, and soaking the actual valve part in a cleaning solvent of your choice. It'll save you a lot of money as opposed to replacing it again. Also make sure with a dealer that it has the latest calibration in the ECU since it has a cleaning routine for the EGR valve that helps to alleviate this problem.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2008 5:35 pm 
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I had the same codes and I replaced the EGR and the codes remained. After careful inspection, I found a split in the CAC hose. I replaced the hose and the CEL went off.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Oct 17, 2008 1:16 pm 
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thanks for the info Mr.Mopar,I will try to do the egr and ccv,and maf sensor this weekend.Is there any good manuals on this rig (chilton,Haynes,ETC)?Also where can i buy a spare "dirty" EGR incase it happens again?thanks and sorry about the name mix-up.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Oct 17, 2008 1:35 pm 
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That's interesting, how would the EGR go about cleaning itself :?:

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Last edited by mackruss on Sun Oct 19, 2008 3:44 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Oct 18, 2008 8:27 pm 
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vegiH wrote:
thanks for the info Mr.Mopar,I will try to do the egr and ccv,and maf sensor this weekend.Is there any good manuals on this rig (chilton,Haynes,ETC)?Also where can i buy a spare "dirty" EGR incase it happens again?thanks and sorry about the name mix-up.


The factory repair manual is pretty good. The most detailed by far. It costs a pretty penny, but is cheaper if you get it on a CD.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Oct 18, 2008 8:40 pm 
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Pablo wrote:
vegiH wrote:
thanks for the info Mr.Mopar,I will try to do the egr and ccv,and maf sensor this weekend.Is there any good manuals on this rig (chilton,Haynes,ETC)?Also where can i buy a spare "dirty" EGR incase it happens again?thanks and sorry about the name mix-up.


The factory repair manual is pretty good. The most detailed by far. It costs a pretty penny, but is cheaper if you get it on a CD.


Or download it for free.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 19, 2008 3:12 am 
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Quote:
By the by am i the only one with a CRD converted to WVO on here?


That was my original plan when I bought the CRD. I have access to some great, very lightly used Canola Oil from the restaurants that I manage. It is used once and dumped (corporate mandate). I have them filter it while it is still hot and it has no water in it. But I got scared by all of the naysayers out there and am just home brewing instead. I saw a great two tank system on a Liberty. The guy built a 10 gallon tank that ran parallel to the drive shaft and dual filler necks. He put diesel in the 10 gal. tank and WVO in the stock tank. It was a pretty clean installation. I am assuming that you are running two tanks. Where is your second tank located? have you had any issues directly related to burning veg? I am still interested in this if it is viable long term. I spent too much on my Liberty to not get maximum miles out of it before it dies so I am interested to see how these little rigs last running on WVO. I don't know enough about it to take the plunge (plus no money to invest in the technology right now anyway).

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 19, 2008 5:44 am 
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Last year I took a trip from Chattanooga TN to Thunder bay Ontario and back on an 80% WVO blend. It worked great on the highway but smoked at idle and was hard to start when cold.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 19, 2008 1:30 pm 
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30,000 miles no big issues noted or experianced.When your ready let me know and i will burn you a disk of install............H

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 20, 2008 9:56 am 
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Please do not use WVO cold,unless you will sell it to me cheap when the injectors and IP go 8) .I have been doing WVO for a long time 3+ years,and this is my second daily driver,and i have two project rigs, VWs.I also run my house heat on a AG solutions B-150(WVO).I have seen guys "cut fuel",this is no good for fuel system,it needs to be heated to lower Viscosity,and be easily burned with same specs as Diesel.My other car is a 2000 Ford Excursion Powerstroke,with the Vegistroke system installed.For any one interested DFA(Vegistroke) will be selling just the module for there system,which can be plumbrd and wired to be fully automatic,like my X,NO interface operation,leave in auto and keep fuel in it,can't get any easier...............H

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 Post subject: SEGR on the way..........
PostPosted: Mon Nov 03, 2008 5:57 pm 
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Well we are back,good thing i needed input on segr when it comes.If any one knows of a good source of EGR delete(for the 11 months i don't do inspection),that would be great thanks ...........H

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 03, 2008 6:08 pm 
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Try and get in touch w/ UFO here on the board. The SEGR kit, once all soldered up, can be unplugged and replaced with a plug that re-connects the relevant wires back to stock configuration in just a couple seconds (and vice versa).

I traded emails with Kerma, of VW TDI tuning fame, about his complete ECU reprogram for greater performance and no egr. Sounds very nice, but spendy and you can't switch back and forth very easily (unless you have a spare ECU to keep with stock programing).

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