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PostPosted: Mon Nov 24, 2008 10:29 pm 
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As of right now, they would be about $350 plus shipping. I know it is higher than the samco set, but the materials are not cheap. A group buy would lower the price as I could order the materials in bulk.

(2) 16ga 6061 mandrel bent and TIG welded charge pipes
(1) 1/8 or 1/4 NPT bung welded on each tube for boost readings (able to monitor preasure drops in the system)
(4) 4 ply silicone couplers
(8) T-Bolt Clamps

I don't want to step on any vendor's toes, but if there is interest, I would do what is nessisary. If any back ground is needed, feel free to check out www.htperformance.net as I co-own the company and am the lead mechanical designer.

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'05 KJ CRD, Manual trans swap in progress followed by solid axle swaps at both ends.

1927 Ford Model T Tudor SCCA track car being contructed, 2.3L duratec with side drafts, t-5, Cobra IRS, C5 ZO6 leafs, double front A-arms, all steel.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 24, 2008 10:31 pm 
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As of right now, they would be about $350 plus shipping. I know it is higher than the samco set, but the materials are not cheap. A group buy would lower the price as I could order the materials in bulk.

(2) 16ga 6061 mandrel bent and TIG welded charge pipes
(1) 1/8 or 1/4 NPT bung welded on each tube for boost readings (able to monitor preasure drops in the system)
(4) 4 ply silicone couplers
(8 ) T-Bolt Clamps

I don't want to step on any vendor's toes, but if there is interest, I would do what is nessisary. If any back ground is needed, feel free to check out www.htperformance.net as I co-own the company and am the lead mechanical designer.

_________________
'05 KJ CRD, Manual trans swap in progress followed by solid axle swaps at both ends.

1927 Ford Model T Tudor SCCA track car being contructed, 2.3L duratec with side drafts, t-5, Cobra IRS, C5 ZO6 leafs, double front A-arms, all steel.

http://www.mutinycustoms.com


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 Post subject: Exhaust Manifold
PostPosted: Tue Nov 25, 2008 1:07 pm 
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Hugekj05,
With my new Samco's I am out of that market for a while.
Have you done anything with the exhaust maniford on your CRD yet?
I would bet with your skills you could put 3" all the way through on our exhaust systems.
There is a 2 1/4" bottleneck that needs enlarging to match my 3" after cat.
A rotary file to the turbo is part of that mod too.
Probably ought to start a new thread if you have interest.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 25, 2008 1:51 pm 
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HugeKJ05 wrote:
As of right now, they would be about $350 plus shipping. I know it is higher than the samco set, but the materials are not cheap. A group buy would lower the price as I could order the materials in bulk.

(2) 16ga 6061 mandrel bent and TIG welded charge pipes
(1) 1/8 or 1/4 NPT bung welded on each tube for boost readings (able to monitor preasure drops in the system)
(4) 4 ply silicone couplers
(8) T-Bolt Clamps

I don't want to step on any vendor's toes, but if there is interest, I would do what is nessisary. If any back ground is needed, feel free to check out www.htperformance.net as I co-own the company and am the lead mechanical designer.


Neat job, do you have the measurements or spec of the two hose replacements for me, i want to do the same if possible.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 25, 2008 5:47 pm 
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The charge pipe from turbo to intercooler is 2" while the intercooler to tbody is 2.5. Also, you need to make sure to beed roll the ends or your tubes where your couplers will conect. If you do not, couplers will tend to blow off after about 15psi of boost. Like I said before, I can get the price down if I order the parts in quantity. If this is your first time fabbing a tubing system, take your time becuase its easy to mess it up and not have all your bends meet up exactly. You really do not want any steps in the tubing and everything should be concentric which means no off angle cuts and if you do cut on an angle, split it up between both pieces.

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'05 KJ CRD, Manual trans swap in progress followed by solid axle swaps at both ends.

1927 Ford Model T Tudor SCCA track car being contructed, 2.3L duratec with side drafts, t-5, Cobra IRS, C5 ZO6 leafs, double front A-arms, all steel.

http://www.mutinycustoms.com


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 25, 2008 6:31 pm 
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Hopefully we could get a group buy going on this. I can't do anything until after the holidays, but I am definitely interested.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 07, 2008 12:55 am 
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Got a hiss yesterday under load. The turbo outlet hose is splitting, there's a 2 inch split. Samco coming up.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 08, 2008 12:54 am 
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Could a muffler shop manufacture a pipe if they had the OE one as a bending guide?

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 08, 2008 12:11 pm 
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nursecosmo wrote:
Could a muffler shop manufacture a pipe if they had the OE one as a bending guide?
Not unless you want crush-bent pipes. You have to buy pre-bent sections if you want mandrel-bent.

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'01 Beetle TDi B100, EGR delete
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 08, 2008 10:02 pm 
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UFO wrote:
nursecosmo wrote:
Could a muffler shop manufacture a pipe if they had the OE one as a bending guide?
Not unless you want crush-bent pipes. You have to buy pre-bent sections if you want mandrel-bent.


There is nothing wrong with crush bent pipes of an appropriate diameter for the CAC. It's not like the ribs would create a measurable flow restriction if it it under boost. Plus the ribs would help with heat dissipation improving the charge density.
FYI some muffler shops do mandrel bending in house such as BobsMuffler. Nearly all of them will put one together for you from pre bent elbows. Or if someone were ambitious enough they could make their own. Here is one source of all angle pre bends which I found in a ten second search but there are others which are much cheaper. http://www.roadraceengineering.com/mandrelbends.htm

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 09, 2008 1:09 pm 
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The problem with crush bending is the diameter restriction in the bend. A crush bent 3" pipe will flow like a 2-1/2" mandrel bent pipe. The restriction will hurt more than the minor cooling (nowhere to dissipate the heat - it just gets hot).

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'83 Mercedes 240D B100, no EGR

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 09, 2008 1:13 pm 
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UFO wrote:
The problem with crush bending is the diameter restriction in the bend. A crush bent 3" pipe will flow like a 2-1/2" mandrel bent pipe. The restriction will hurt more than the minor cooling (nowhere to dissipate the heat - it just gets hot).


Plus it'll look crappy all crushed up.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 09, 2008 2:40 pm 
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UFO wrote:
The problem with crush bending is the diameter restriction in the bend. A crush bent 3" pipe will flow like a 2-1/2" mandrel bent pipe. The restriction will hurt more than the minor cooling (nowhere to dissipate the heat - it just gets hot).


Notice that I stated "of the appropriate diameter". By moving up in size to 3.5" or 4" pipe the flow would not be impeded at all. A 2.5" diameter at the restriction would not really be a problem anyway unless one were planning on hot-roding the engine. Normal air demand in the stock engine requires nowhere near 3" of airflow at 15#s of boost. I'm not encouraging anyone to go to a curshbent custom pipe anyway. I'm just throwing it out there as an option for anybody who does not want to pay the ridiculous price for a Samco or even an OE CAC hose. I would certainly consider this option when my own hose goes south.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 09, 2008 2:53 pm 
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nursecosmo wrote:
UFO wrote:
The problem with crush bending is the diameter restriction in the bend. A crush bent 3" pipe will flow like a 2-1/2" mandrel bent pipe. The restriction will hurt more than the minor cooling (nowhere to dissipate the heat - it just gets hot).


Notice that I stated "of the appropriate diameter". By moving up in size to 3.5" or 4" pipe the flow would not be impeded at all. A 2.5" diameter at the restriction would not really be a problem anyway unless one were planning on hot-roding the engine. Normal air demand in the stock engine requires nowhere near 3" of airflow at 15#s of boost. I'm not encouraging anyone to go to a curshbent custom pipe anyway. I'm just throwing it out there as an option for anybody who does not want to pay the ridiculous price for a Samco or even an OE CAC hose. I would certainly consider this option when my own hose goes south.


Would they not be a problem to fit at that diameter?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 09, 2008 3:00 pm 
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Not with the appropriate boots.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Dec 10, 2008 11:56 pm 
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I am not sure if others feel the same way, but I have yet to see any decent welding come out of a muffler shop. That alone would make me avoid going that route. I don't think crushed bent tubing is the way to go either simply because you have to step up a size and things will get tight, most shops only use steel and the quality is no where near where it should be. This is just my opinion though, others can think and do as they please. I am fabbing up a very nice set of charge pipes that will do more for me than Samco or the oe pos tubes.

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'05 KJ CRD, Manual trans swap in progress followed by solid axle swaps at both ends.

1927 Ford Model T Tudor SCCA track car being contructed, 2.3L duratec with side drafts, t-5, Cobra IRS, C5 ZO6 leafs, double front A-arms, all steel.

http://www.mutinycustoms.com


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2008 3:44 am 
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HugeKJ05 wrote:
I am not sure if others feel the same way, but I have yet to see any decent welding come out of a muffler shop. That alone would make me avoid going that route. I don't think crushed bent tubing is the way to go either simply because you have to step up a size and things will get tight, most shops only use steel and the quality is no where near where it should be. This is just my opinion though, others can think and do as they please. I am fabbing up a very nice set of charge pipes that will do more for me than Samco or the oe pos tubes.


Just post some pics of your pipes when you're finished with them all nicely polished and you'll see the response you get from the forum. If i lived in the States i would already have placed my order for a pair of well made mandrel bend alu pipes and silicone lips for the mounting.

I have somebody making up a pair for me and i will post pics when ready.

Then as the Texans like to say, "Yer good ter go lad" with the twang.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2008 1:34 pm 
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mackruss wrote:
Then as the Texans like to say, "Yer good ter go lad" with the twang.


No Texan in his right mind would say "lad". Boy is the correct term, pronounced Boai. :lol:

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2008 1:37 pm 
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HugeKJ05 wrote:
most shops only use steel and the quality is no where near where it should be.

All of the oil coming from the PCV and EGR will keep it rust free. :-)r

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2008 7:33 pm 
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lol

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1927 Ford Model T Tudor SCCA track car being contructed, 2.3L duratec with side drafts, t-5, Cobra IRS, C5 ZO6 leafs, double front A-arms, all steel.

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