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PostPosted: Sun Nov 23, 2008 12:11 am 
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kdlewis1975,

I was answering your long chemical post with the other post were posted..

congrates on the new young one..

for where to the stuff..that's easy..
not saying that you could not get your hands on lab grade stuff..but
there are easier sources.
NaOH - drain cleaner..the higher the purity the better
Methanol - Yellow HEET from an auto parts store
oil - just about any restaurant in in town..
glass mason jars work well for testing batches

yep the fully saturated would make a longer life fuel but if it got cold...gelling no going

with respect to water and alcohol..we don't, atleast I don't rely on settling to remove this.
evaporation play a big part. most of the methanol, KOH, and soap go out through washing. yes down to the PPM(If I recall correctly < 50PPM for KOH soap). water through drying..this is a MUST and not just a MUST for biodiesel.

also my oxidation answer was in relation to the metal, thought correct, I was referring to what happen the biodiesel in the presence of copper and zinc.

actually in support of "stuff left behind"..a couple of years ago the NBB( national biodiesel board) tested the commerical producers..would it surprise you that 50% or so failed ASTM?

My wife Liberty loves B100, home made of course.

can we come in and have a cold beer( hot chocolate) instead of throwing snowballs :)

I would like to hear about the solid acid catalyst...so would a bunch of other at
http://biodiesel.infopop.cc

-dkenny

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 25, 2008 7:25 pm 
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dkenny,

I'll read up on the solid acid catalysts and try to answer your other questions in the next week or so after I do a little background research. Ya'll have a nice Turkey day.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 25, 2008 9:14 pm 
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kdlewis1975 wrote:
dkenny,

I'll read up on the solid acid catalysts and try to answer your other questions in the next week or so after I do a little background research. Ya'll have a nice Turkey day.
You too, thanks for the great info.

BTW, it's been documented, specifically at thedieselstop.com that 2% biodiesel provides more lubrication than any other additive you can get. I know of no studies where properly reacted, washed and dried fuel causes corrosion, presumably from traces left over from the processes involved.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 3:13 pm 
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What a great thread. I have been busy lately and have not checked in for the latest dope. kdlewis1975 You rock. It is so refreshing to have a poster who actually has a concept of chemistry and physics and is not just repeating something that they read on JTF (journey to forever).

Blake1827; the initial photo which you posted from the Cummins Manuel is typical for zinc coated fittings exposed to bio. The residual MEOH does not get along with zinc. Copper or brass fairs better but will still erode eventually. I have used a Goldenrod fuel filter for many gallons of b100. The filter head is made from zinc. The couple of times when I have used new, raw unwashed Bio with a substantial amount of residual MEOH, it would plug the filter with fine sediment it caused to erode from the head. When I washed it, it had no problems but it still had clouding in cool weather due to some water remaining in solution. When I would make unwashed, aged, fully alcohol free Bio it was the best quality.

I would also like to point out that the erosion of the galvanization on banjo fittings is not unique to BD. It is commonly encountered in diesel gensets because the fuel is allowed to sit for too long and collect moisture and become acidic due to oxidation of the diesel (What do you think that oxidized sulfur in the fuel becomes when combined with H2O).

Even though BD "can" cause zinc erosion, So what? We don't have zinc in our CRD's fuel system. And even in the older systems which do, it doesn't really cause any problems other than fittings which get can rust if there is free water in the fuel(bad idea anyway).

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