how often does the CCV need to be changed? i had a new one put on bout three / four months ago when i had trouble with oil in the intercooler and blowin the hose off the throttle body, it was doin fine after the new one was put on. Bout a month or so ago i got the provent and put it on and now i have oil in the bottom hose. I took it (provent & ccv) off and cleaned it good but the provent was slap full of oil. i ordered a new ccv to put on but was just curious how often i needed to chang it. Every other oil change?

The CCV valve itself - should never have to be changed (unless you break it like I did) and it will always have oil in it.
The Provent - generally collects about 1 oz/1000 miles - so depending on how long a tube you put at the bottom - about every oil change
(unless you did gmctd's return to crankcase and then never)
although you should probably clean the Provent 'filter' - (it's really a condensation screen) - on some regular basis - every few months or so

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2005 CRD
stuff
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i have the hose goin all the way down under the jeep by the oil drain plug and then put a bolt in it and pluged it off. the proven has only been on there for about 3000 miles and it the drain hose was already full and the provent half full.

Did they overfill the oil?

1) some of the dipsticks were a little off - you only need to fill to the lower mark (I think it was 6.4 quarts -w/ Mopar filter)
2) - it takes 30-45 minutes for the oil to drain back down - it they start it to check for leaks and then check the dipstick -
they'll top it off and overfill about 1/2 quart - causes a lot more oil vapor.

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2005 CRD
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Skeptic quod gratis asseritur, gratis negatur

I change the oil myself and only use 6.4 quarts with a mopar filter. I did have to add bout a quart though the other day because it wasn't even on the dipstick.

2 issues

1) The only time I've ever had extra oil in the Provent is when the engine's had extra oil added - otherwise the 1 oz/1000 miles i.e. low level is consistent
2) The only time my oil has been low - I had an oil cooler gasket leak (it's under the turbo) and oil got into the coolant, so the radiator overflow was black.

I do not know why you would be blowing oil out the CCV - but I suspect a line somewhere is kinked or clogged - maybe pulling a vacuum where there shouldn't be
and other than carefully check everything I don't have any good advice.
see if gmctd is logged on? (no he's not)

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2005 CRD
stuff
Skeptic quod gratis asseritur, gratis negatur

I would check any and all vacuum hoses on the vehicle (brake booster, turbocharger VGT control, etc.). Due to the way the vacuum pump operates, if there is a leak in which there is a flow of air into the vacuum circuit, this air will be forced into the crankcase by the vacuum pump. This pressure will in turn cause the crankcase to pressurize and start forcing oil out - either past the rings and burning in the combustion chamber, or out through the CCV.

The only time I ever lose oil through the ehm/provent is when I go WFO.
The tranny bangs gears and it feels so good.
I imagine all kinds of stresses in the engine but am willing to pay the fiddler.
Of course I allow time to cool down the turbocharger.
Check vacuum hoses is good advise.

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'06 Jeep Liberty Sport CRD with: GDE Hot Flash and Tranny Flash, ehm, Cummins fuel pump, 3" Magnaflow muff, Moog K3199's, Skids, 225-75-16 10 ply, OME springs, Euro T/C, Shift kit, Trans cooler w/thermal bypass, Bigboy bkt, Samco CAC, Brake controller, Trans temp gauge, Al's Upper Arms

The VW TDI does not require turbo cooling /idle before shutdown why then the CRD, is this myth or fact

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06 CRD LTD ( Euro )

it's in the manual - if you've been driving hard - especially towing a trailer.
The key is the oil flowing through the turbo bearings - if you just shut down - it tends to burn in the lines - clogging the cooling
however that was much more of an issue with petroleum based oils - not so much of an issue with synthetics
they can handle a much more heat without burning.

so if you're really pushing the engine hard - some cooldown is a good idea (and that would be true of VW's too - whether they recommend it or not)

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2005 CRD
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Skeptic quod gratis asseritur, gratis negatur

Towing is not factory-encouraged for the VW TDI, where ~1500lbs is mentioned in some of the manuals - towing with the KJ CRD is encouraged, with max load of 5000lbs, plus the engine is larger and the KJ is heavier - either case, it is impossible to immediately shut down from, say, 15psi Boost under load, where EGT and turbine temp would be high - any driving involves a slow-down period of decreasing speed, engine rpm, and loading which automatically cools the turbo - Diesel-rated oils are turbo-rated for higher temps than gasser (patooie!) motor oils, so are less likely to 'coke' in the turbo bearings, and the use of synthetic motor oils reduces that effect even further - Diesels are equipped with engine oil coolers as standard, where engines of that other fuel seldom are so equipped - unless your turbine snail regularly glows bright orange under normal driving conditions, cool-down is unnecessary, tho I would advise a water-cooled cartridge, as those temps will coke any oil even with engine running - race cars need cool-down periods to flush that coked oil from the cartridge - cool-down was encouraged with the first 18-wheeler turbos because of pre-turbo oil technology, and those turbos are huge, with lots of cast-iron mass, slow to cool - there are exceptions, such as climbing an interminable 6% grade, where even slowing down requires Boost to keep the load moving off the road and into the parking area - and remember, cool-down is zero mpg

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'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go

The CCV that VW uses at least on the 96 Passat I had looks to be the same Mahl unit. At 20K my Passat tdi started passing oil to the inter cooler. Turned out to be the CCV. The mechanic mentioned that one rattled and the other one didn't but didn't remember which was which But the point is they can go bad. The one on my 99.5 tdi, now my son's, is still good at 135k miles

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Atlantic Blue 06 CRD Limited (his)
Joined by a 2000 XJ Classic (hers)