Here's how I'm thinking about lifting my CRD - PHOTOS!

W3CSX · **Posted:** Thu Dec 29, 2005 10:15 pm

Boxhead,

Looks good!

I like it. I have had mine on for about two weeks and love it. I rubbed the black lower trim too. But I cut the whole thing off across lower bumper. This gives an extra inch / inch and a half of extra clearance.

Do you rub the anti-sway bar with the 255-70's? I was very pleased when mine didn't with 245-75-16 Goodyear MTR's. Most of what I have heard others are having issues with this.

BTW: how / where did you mount those driving lights? I have been thinking of mounting KC slim-lights in the same general area. Is there a plate I have not found under the plastic cover to drill thru? Or did you fab something up under there?

Jason

boxhead · **Joined:** Fri Jul 08, 2005 11:14 pm **Posts:** 186

Rubbing was only in the areas noted. I may have some slight rubbing at full turn, but I haven't really checked. The pinch weld is clear and free.

BTW - Haven't been off road yet, but put over 500 hwy miles on it. The lift, and the Dominator tires provied a nice ride.

Wilmo · **Posted:** Sat Dec 31, 2005 9:27 am

Boxhead,

What were the measurements you got with the lift from wheel arch to bottom of the rim Front and Rear both sides?

I'm just looking at swapping out the OME springs I put on my CRD at the front with the original springs and the daystar pucks, but would like to know what height yours is at now. Mine was at 710mm (28 inches) between the upper wheel arch and lower rim stock, so if I add 2.5 inches to this its going to be at 30.5 inches - which is way higher than even the petrol cars are getting I believe.

A Petrol KJ normally sits nearly at 27inches (680cm) from what I understand, so 2.5 inches on this (the maximum recommended without CV hassles) is 29.5 inches. As you can see, my car was already an inch higher from the factory, so if I add 2.5 its like I'm doing a 3.5inch lift which is too much.

Many thanks

Wilmo · **Posted:** Mon Jan 02, 2006 8:47 pm

boxhead?

boxhead · **Joined:** Fri Jul 08, 2005 11:14 pm **Posts:** 186

I have 30 inches from the bottom of the front rim to the fender arch. In the rear, I have 29.5 inches. I'm running 255/70/16 tires as well.

Also, I do have some rubbing on the sway bar at full turn, but I can live with it.

Wilmo · **Posted:** Wed Jan 04, 2006 2:03 am

Thanks for the measurements!

Cheers

afornal · **Posted:** Wed Jan 04, 2006 9:07 pm

Check out the following Site - http://www.billetlift.com They outfitted a CRD with a lift.

longarm · **Posted:** Thu Jan 05, 2006 2:46 am

..........

Guest · **Posted:** Thu Jan 05, 2006 10:59 am

longarm wrote:

Nice looking KJ. I would LOVE to get 33's under mine. I would have to beat back the pinch weld and do some more trimming. I'll wait until the tires on it need to be replaced. I have the Daystar Lift with Goodyear Wrangler Silent Armors in 255/70/16. They do rub (minor) at full turn. I did have to trim a little bit off the grey plastic undercladding on the front bumper to get them to clear it. Otherwise they were rubbing it pretty bad. When I put my lift on, it was on a hoist at a buddies shop, he put his 33x12.5x15's on it to see how it would look. It looked AWSOME! Nice looking CRD Boxhead.

Is there something about the lift that changes the geometry enough to cause the rubbing? Right now I am unlifted with the 255/70/16 Revos and have no rubbing at full turn (on road) and very minor rubbing on the rear pinch weld only for off roading.

I also responded to a post you made a long time ago in the 4x4 section about front struts. Maybe you can check it out? Thanks.

LibertyCRD · **Posted:** Thu Jan 05, 2006 11:02 am

This is becoming interesting. I've seen a couple of guys claiming to run 255/70s with no trouble on stock KJs. However, the lifted guys are having rubbing issues with them. Odd...

Also, when I set the 255/70 tire next to my stock tires that are on the Jeep, it appears that they are going to barely work at all. I will find out tomorrow when I get them put on I guess. But I wonder what's going on here....

When you put a suspension lift on a truck with IFS like the KJ...it pulls the wheels in toward the engine just a little. All I can think of is that this small difference is enough to cause the rubbing on lifted KJs...

LEDfoot · **Posted:** Thu Jan 05, 2006 12:14 pm

LibertyCRD wrote:

This is becoming interesting. I've seen a couple of guys claiming to run 255/70s with no trouble on stock KJs. However, the lifted guys are having rubbing issues with them. Odd...

Also, when I set the 255/70 tire next to my stock tires that are on the Jeep, it appears that they are going to barely work at all. I will find out tomorrow when I get them put on I guess. But I wonder what's going on here....

When you put a suspension lift on a truck with IFS like the KJ...it pulls the wheels in toward the engine just a little. All I can think of is that this small difference is enough to cause the rubbing on lifted KJs...

If that is the case, a small wheel spacer on the fronts should do the trick quite nicely.

LibertyCRD · **Posted:** Thu Jan 05, 2006 12:19 pm

Exactly. Or if you are one of the guys planning to change your wheels along with the tires, get a wheel with 1.0" less backspacing. That would do the trick also. I can't wait to get my 255s on tomorrow and see just how bad this thing is going to rub. I think it's going to be bad...but we'll see. '

It's a shame we are having so much trouble with 255s. I mean, 255s are tiny tires themselves compared to what the other trucks in the world are running on stock suspension. :oops:

LEDfoot · **Posted:** Thu Jan 05, 2006 12:38 pm

LibertyCRD wrote:

Exactly. Or if you are one of the guys planning to change your wheels along with the tires, get a wheel with 1.0" less backspacing. That would do the trick also. I can't wait to get my 255s on tomorrow and see just how bad this thing is going to rub. I think it's going to be bad...but we'll see. '

It's a shame we are having so much trouble with 255s. I mean, 255s are tiny tires themselves compared to what the other trucks in the world are running on stock suspension. :oops:

Of course, but then you end up with different wheels for the front and the back, unless you want to push out the rear tires as well.

boxhead · **Joined:** Fri Jul 08, 2005 11:14 pm **Posts:** 186

I do plan to change wheels and backspacing at some point. I've just got college and housing expenses for my 20 year old going on right now. :-)

boxhead · **Joined:** Fri Jul 08, 2005 11:14 pm **Posts:** 186

alljeep wrote:

longarm wrote:

Nice looking KJ. I would LOVE to get 33's under mine. I would have to beat back the pinch weld and do some more trimming. I'll wait until the tires on it need to be replaced. I have the Daystar Lift with Goodyear Wrangler Silent Armors in 255/70/16. They do rub (minor) at full turn. I did have to trim a little bit off the grey plastic undercladding on the front bumper to get them to clear it. Otherwise they were rubbing it pretty bad. When I put my lift on, it was on a hoist at a buddies shop, he put his 33x12.5x15's on it to see how it would look. It looked AWSOME! Nice looking CRD Boxhead.

Is there something about the lift that changes the geometry enough to cause the rubbing? Right now I am unlifted with the 255/70/16 Revos and have no rubbing at full turn (on road) and very minor rubbing on the rear pinch weld only for off roading.

I also responded to a post you made a long time ago in the 4x4 section about front struts. Maybe you can check it out? Thanks.

Can't find it, can you give me a link? Thanks.

Guest · **Posted:** Thu Jan 05, 2006 3:00 pm

boxhead wrote:

alljeep wrote:

longarm wrote:

Nice looking KJ. I would LOVE to get 33's under mine. I would have to beat back the pinch weld and do some more trimming. I'll wait until the tires on it need to be replaced. I have the Daystar Lift with Goodyear Wrangler Silent Armors in 255/70/16. They do rub (minor) at full turn. I did have to trim a little bit off the grey plastic undercladding on the front bumper to get them to clear it. Otherwise they were rubbing it pretty bad. When I put my lift on, it was on a hoist at a buddies shop, he put his 33x12.5x15's on it to see how it would look. It looked AWSOME! Nice looking CRD Boxhead.

Is there something about the lift that changes the geometry enough to cause the rubbing? Right now I am unlifted with the 255/70/16 Revos and have no rubbing at full turn (on road) and very minor rubbing on the rear pinch weld only for off roading.

I also responded to a post you made a long time ago in the 4x4 section about front struts. Maybe you can check it out? Thanks.

Can't find it, can you give me a link? Thanks.

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/vie ... c&start=15

Originally directed at "longarm" but if you can answer please do...

boxhead · **Joined:** Fri Jul 08, 2005 11:14 pm **Posts:** 186

alljeep wrote:

boxhead wrote:

alljeep wrote:

longarm wrote:

Nice looking KJ. I would LOVE to get 33's under mine. I would have to beat back the pinch weld and do some more trimming. I'll wait until the tires on it need to be replaced. I have the Daystar Lift with Goodyear Wrangler Silent Armors in 255/70/16. They do rub (minor) at full turn. I did have to trim a little bit off the grey plastic undercladding on the front bumper to get them to clear it. Otherwise they were rubbing it pretty bad. When I put my lift on, it was on a hoist at a buddies shop, he put his 33x12.5x15's on it to see how it would look. It looked AWSOME! Nice looking CRD Boxhead.

Is there something about the lift that changes the geometry enough to cause the rubbing? Right now I am unlifted with the 255/70/16 Revos and have no rubbing at full turn (on road) and very minor rubbing on the rear pinch weld only for off roading.

I also responded to a post you made a long time ago in the 4x4 section about front struts. Maybe you can check it out? Thanks.

Can't find it, can you give me a link? Thanks.

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/vie ... c&start=15

Originally directed at "longarm" but if you can answer please do...

I've had my lift on for less than 2 weeks, and have put ~800 hwy miles on it, and some light offroading. I'm very pleased with it. I'm not certain about the statements regarding BDS shocks verses Rancho shocks. (rubber verses poly inserts) I put Ranchos all the way around, using the longer ones in the back for the additional 2" of stroke. As far as replacing the OEM struts in the front are concerned, my answer would be yes. I waited 18K miles to lift this Liberty (this is my third) but I've lifted at 3K miles and still replaced them. My take has been that if I'm going to all this trouble, and have to press the struts anyway, then I'll put a high quality front strut on while I'm doing it. Mandated? No Good idea? I truly believe so. If the OEM struts go after the lift, DCX won't replace them anyway.................

Hope this helps.

Guest · **Posted:** Fri Jan 06, 2006 9:31 am

Thanks for the reply. It's nice to hear a real world report before you start into a project.

LibertyCRD · **Posted:** Fri Jan 06, 2006 9:41 am

I bought the 1.5" front/2.0" rear Daystar kit for mine. My rear spacer is identical to the one they sell in the "2.5 inch" kit. The only difference is the front spacer. I don't have the new top plate for the struts and extra inch of spacer.

My experience is the factory shocks and struts are perfectly fine with the lift. I saved $160 by not ordering new struts for the front. The entire lift kit only cost $171, so it was a good decision. I did end up ordering new rear shocks, but they were not a must. My factory shocks in the rear and my struts up front have never topped out on the road, and I don't have any trouble on the trail.

Having said that...if you run the 2.5 inch kit up front then that one extra inch might possibly be enough to pass the factory struts threshold. I am not sure. He said he's glad he put new struts on up front...with the 2.5 inch kit this probably would be a good idea IF you can afford to do so. $160 extra is a considerable added expense. But if you can afford it...yeah I guess I'd do that too.

In the rear, my Ranchos DO give me more flex off-road, and for that I love them. But on the road I'm less than pleased. They ride stiff, and they produce a "thumping" noise that cannot be fixed. I've even had a pro mechanic look at them. So it depends on what you want. If you are putting on a lift for the "look", I would stay with the factory shocks. They are much nicer shocks. If you are going off-road to get serious, then yeah you'll need to buy some better aftermarket ones.

I get my 255s on today...will probably be using my new Dremel tool I got for Christmas.

boxhead · **Joined:** Fri Jul 08, 2005 11:14 pm **Posts:** 186

As I noted, the shocks/struts discussion contains a lot of opinion. However, I've run Ranchos on the rear of three Libbys, and have never experienced the clunk sound/noise. And I've been pleased with both the on and off road performance. I think it's obvious that everyone's decision should be based ultimately on use and what one can afford.

I can assure you this. Many of us bottomed out our OEM shocks in the back. That's why we went with the Rancho shocks for the Durango, as they have a longer stroke. In the front, I think the new Daystar top plate should help a lot. I had a Revtek kit last time. It was a great kit, but I could still bottom out the front strut.

There are many fine products out there for shocks and struts. Many of us have gone with Rancho because they work. But they are hardly the only option.

Here's how I'm thinking about lifting my CRD - PHOTOS!

Who is online