Turbo installed... NOW what's the matter?

geordi · **Posted:** Wed Feb 18, 2009 5:14 pm

OIL PRESSURE!!!!!

Ok, looks like it's a bad sensor! Thank the Lord for small victories!

Couple things I discovered: The fools at MOPAR don't even know where the sensor is located on the CRD, b/c they printed out a paper that showed it in the middle of the driver's side of the block. That would have placed it squarely inside the alternator or just behind it. It is ACTUALLY located right next to the filter, feeding off of the filter's output. MUCH easier to get to!

Second thing: Installing a secondary gauge sender will be STUPID EASY with the current location, as all I will need to do is install a T fitting, and the new sender.

Mechanical gauge from Harbor Freight spun right up to 80psi at idle, within 1 second of engine start, and it stayed there. Yay! No need to disassemble the front of the engine!

Finally... The ticking noise is gone! Don't know why... But not gonna question. It may have been an oil propagation issue, who knows. Seems like all is happy and oily again, and I'm just about done bathing in 5w40 for a VERY long time. I think the next time I use Fast Orange to wash my hands, I'm going to be hitting BONES. I don't think I have any more layers of skin left.

cerich · **Posted:** Wed Feb 18, 2009 5:48 pm

geordi wrote:

OIL PRESSURE!!!!!

Ok, looks like it's a bad sensor! Thank the Lord for small victories!

Couple things I discovered: The fools at MOPAR don't even know where the sensor is located on the CRD, b/c they printed out a paper that showed it in the middle of the driver's side of the block. That would have placed it squarely inside the alternator or just behind it. It is ACTUALLY located right next to the filter, feeding off of the filter's output. MUCH easier to get to!

Second thing: Installing a secondary gauge sender will be STUPID EASY with the current location, as all I will need to do is install a T fitting, and the new sender.

Mechanical gauge from Harbor Freight spun right up to 80psi at idle, within 1 second of engine start, and it stayed there. Yay! No need to disassemble the front of the engine!

Finally... The ticking noise is gone! Don't know why... But not gonna question. It may have been an oil propagation issue, who knows. Seems like all is happy and oily again, and I'm just about done bathing in 5w40 for a VERY long time. I think the next time I use Fast Orange to wash my hands, I'm going to be hitting BONES. I don't think I have any more layers of skin left.

cool, harbor freight has nitrile gloves on sale dude.

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Wed Feb 18, 2009 6:00 pm

[/quote]

cool, harbor freight has nitrile gloves on sale dude.[/quote]

Yep, the ones I got act like the Chinese Government rejected the raw Nitriel material for Condom Production, so our pals at Harbor Freight bought it and had that batch made into gloves instead and put them on sale. Out of the batch I got 2/3rds of them ripped in use. I hope your batch is better than mine. :lol:

JeepinJarhead03 · **Posted:** Wed Feb 18, 2009 6:28 pm

i used to wear blue nitrile diamond grips from snapon or napa when i was workin as a diesel mechanic, sometimes it doesn't matter, diesel fuel will balloon just about anything, I could make it through about 3 services before changing gloves as long as i waited till i had done all 3 before changing and filling fuel filters at which point the gloves on my hands would turn into some swamp thing looking radiated mutations hanging from my hands and fingers :lol:

the doctor that stitched up my forehead gave me 2 boxes of medical nitriles and they were crap, theyed start to balloon during an oil service just from the fuel in the used diesel oil

yeah, watch out for those recycled condom gloves

just remembered, i had a box of red nitriles that were super duper thick, they actually would last through fuel filter changes, they ballooned, but very slowly but I don't remember where I got them

gmctd · **Posted:** Wed Feb 18, 2009 7:49 pm

Problem being, some of the drawings in the FSM's represent the earlier 2.5L engine, not the 2.8L, so Mr Moparts would not have the correct part location, sometimes not even the correct part number - anyway, glad you've successfully resolved your resolution

geordi · **Posted:** Wed Feb 18, 2009 8:26 pm

Yea... Success? Not so much.

That ticking noise came back while I was on a test drive, and I was already on the return leg of about a 10 mile loop. I stop for a stop sign, the engine starts running VERY rough and stumbling, and I hear a "POW!" type noise. Cut the engine off immediately and open the door... To hear (and see) all my hard-earned oil gushing to the pavement from the skid plate. No clue what the he|| happened, but I think it just committed suicide.

I've been stuck out on the road for the last 2 hours or so, just got back now. I'm gonna figure out how to pull that skid plate, and do that to assess the damage. I'm not a happy person right now.

JeepinJarhead03 · **Posted:** Wed Feb 18, 2009 8:30 pm

oh jeez

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Wed Feb 18, 2009 8:48 pm

Keep us posted.

geordi · **Posted:** Wed Feb 18, 2009 8:57 pm

Yea, I think it's a confirmed kill. The bottom of the oil pan, just slightly behind the axle now has about a 2"x2" hole in it, and there is a LOT of shrapnel on the skid plate. Thoughts from the audience?

How FUBAR is this engine now? And more to the point... Is there any way to conclusively point at something and say THIS caused the failure (and hopefully) get MOPAR to cough up for it?

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Wed Feb 18, 2009 9:05 pm

...In this economy. They will try to convince a Jury that by you taking a Wiz in a truck stop that sold bio you are guilty of the problem your self.

A Used short block (if the head is OK)/long block may be an option if you can get one from across the pond.

In this economy, I think even MB would be snotty on a car 10 min or 10 miles out of warranty.

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Wed Feb 18, 2009 9:24 pm

Holes in oil pans tend to be pieces of the rod that just self destructed, from lack of oil to the bearings.
wonder if the powertrain warranty will cover it?

geordi · **Posted:** Wed Feb 18, 2009 9:33 pm

Uhm... WHAT powertrain warranty? Mopar gave me a Christmas gift: "At some point, you became the third owner of this vehicle. As such, your warranty is no longer in effect, but you do have the full lifespan of the 3/36. Oh, that expired due to mileage. Well, have a nice holiday anyway and thank you for calling Chrysler!"

Yea... The office wonks can go fornicate themselves. I have HARD COPY of the VIP reports that show that I am listed as the owner AND that I have the 7/70 listed as ACTIVE. They change something in a computer, and my warranty goes away. Lovely, isn't it?

I guess my first stop tomorrow will be to the dealer to see if they are willing to re-negotiate on this warranty status. I didn't have the papers with me at Christmas to show then. Oh, and the phone wonks couldn't offer ANY proof to the dealer guy, even when he was paging through the system with them. It's like only they have a magic screen, and the dealers just have to "take them at their word" that they will be honest about things.

Yea... NOT! :evil:

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Wed Feb 18, 2009 9:39 pm

Go for it, burn their @$$. Don't be afraid to get the Attorney General involved. You need the bail out money more than some UAW suck that retired at 52 :!:

MrMopar64 · **Posted:** Wed Feb 18, 2009 9:43 pm

If the hole is at the back, I'd for sure agree with that. Depending on how bad it is, you might be able to salvage the engine. If it's in the middle, that means the rod took out the balance shafts too - that'd be a hell of a feat through all that cast iron.

In any case, due to how the engine is assembled (tunnel block design) and the main bearings riding in an aluminum shell, it'd be a pain in the booty - for sure nothing you could do in the car.

I wish you the best of luck. If you're in the greater Detroit area (or even close) I could try and lend some help.

geordi · **Posted:** Wed Feb 18, 2009 10:02 pm

I'm going to jack it up tomorrow and take a picture of the damage, so that everyone can see what I'm looking at.

As far as the papers... I would REALLY hate to have to cough for a lawyer's retainer, but maybe talking nicely to the dealer and asking them to advocate for me to the LLC will help. Certainly they don't want (or deserve) to be sued, as the local dealers didn't cause the system to change.

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Wed Feb 18, 2009 10:06 pm

Sell the idea to the dealer on making some money. Then go to the State attorney General before you cough up money to a Lawyer, you paid them already with your taxes.

dieselenthusiast · **Posted:** Wed Feb 18, 2009 10:45 pm

I still have my CRD engine for sale..............

geordi · **Posted:** Wed Feb 18, 2009 11:02 pm

Price? Details? Mileage?

And the all-important one: Condition?

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Wed Feb 18, 2009 11:06 pm

geordi wrote:

OIL PRESSURE!!!!!

Ok, looks like it's a bad sensor! Thank the Lord for small victories!

Couple things I discovered: The fools at MOPAR don't even know where the sensor is located on the CRD, b/c they printed out a paper that showed it in the middle of the driver's side of the block. That would have placed it squarely inside the alternator or just behind it. It is ACTUALLY located right next to the filter, feeding off of the filter's output. MUCH easier to get to!

Why didn't you just ask me? I could have even showed you a picture of where the sensor is.

dieselenthusiast · **Posted:** Wed Feb 18, 2009 11:08 pm

geordi wrote:

Price? Details? Mileage?

And the all-important one: Condition?

This is the CRD engine that Todd at www.dieseltoyz.com was going to use himself. He went though the entire motor and replaced all kinds of seals, gaskets, (cam plugs and seals) and cleaned everything. This is a very solid motor with excellent compression. The motor came out of a 2005 Jeep Liberty with 47,000 original miles on the engine 1J4GL48565W680983 The engine includes a new timing belt and new oil filter. It was intended for a diesel swap, so it also comes with all the wiring and computers

$2,500
Pictures on the next page

Turbo installed... NOW what's the matter?

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