Discussion of d30a fitments

Guest · **Posted:** Wed Feb 18, 2009 12:57 pm

The point is front diffs have blown with that dumb little collar, they've blown pulling backwards, they've blown with TrueTracs in them...

If it is going to blow, it will. There is no proof that it can be helped whatsoever

BTW-has anybody blown one with a LOCKER in it?

Back-n-Black · **Posted:** Wed Feb 18, 2009 1:01 pm

ThunderbirdJunkie wrote:

So then how do we know that it will blow it up, like was posted earlier?

There's too much theory in this thread and not enough hard evidence.

That is why i started this thread so we can get some facts and leave the fiction to the young-uns. The more data we can find and personal experience we can log the better off we all will be with our options clearly detailed instead of like you said "theory".

Maybe we can talk to our favorite vendors and ask them if they have ever tryed these lockers or seen failure of the front diff with a locker in place.

Back-n-Black · **Posted:** Wed Feb 18, 2009 7:40 pm

Quote:

Because the LOCK-RIGHT eliminates wheel spin-up and therefore its associated driveline trauma is negated, the strength and integrity of its surrounding original case and other driveline components are, in effect, substantially increased. Cases that occasionally fail with open or limited-slip/posi differentials become one of the strongest links in the drive train when equipped with the POWERTRAX LOCK-RIGHT LOCKER.

Thoughts?

JeepinJarhead03 · **Posted:** Wed Feb 18, 2009 7:56 pm

id put it in there if they wrote me a waranty to sfa my jeep if i snapped the front case with their stuff within 30 days

jamangus · **Posted:** Wed Feb 18, 2009 8:18 pm

in your list of failures, I would note weather or not the busted KJ had factory Traction Control (ESP)

Back-n-Black · **Posted:** Wed Feb 18, 2009 8:24 pm

jamangus wrote:

in your list of failures, I would note weather or not the busted KJ had factory Traction Control (ESP)

Good idea.

InCommando · **Posted:** Thu Feb 19, 2009 12:44 am

Remember that the D30a is based on the D30, a front end that was not loved at all by most of the owners. D44 or bigger swaps are common in most D30 rigs. The ring gears are tiny and the KJ really is kind of a little porker. I guess the point is that I didn't leave a D30 under my commando's, I should not be surprised that I am worried about a D30a in the 25% heavier KJ. It is just the nature of the beast.

Guest · **Posted:** Thu Feb 19, 2009 1:03 am

I think the bigger issue with the front auto locker is that it can be dangerous when driving on slippery surfaces like ice. Imagine going around an icy corner and your front wheels lock. :shock:

i vote Back-n-Black and ThunderbirdJunkie try it and report back. :wink:

Diggerfreek · **Posted:** Thu Feb 19, 2009 1:05 am

how about adding tire size to your list :?:

Back-n-Black · **Posted:** Thu Feb 19, 2009 2:46 am

Diggerfreek wrote:

how about adding tire size to your list :?:

Another great idea!! But no one posted that info in the threads i found. That was one of the factors i wanted to look at right off the bat, but no one lists tires sizes and i do not know if peoples sig still reflect what was under them when it happened. But i will attempt to update with this info.

Icarl by definition driving on icy roads is dangerous in and of it's self. Many, many, many crash's, accidents and deaths have occurred due to icy roads. But then again if your going fast enough to lose control on an icy road it will make no difference if your in 4wheel drive, 2 wheel drive or have a front locker. But i see your point and like i said it is all up to the persons opinion if they can drive well enough to trust having a locker. Lots of people feel the same way about rear auto lockers like the Detroit, that they are unsafe and scary.

InComando, i agree. Most 4x4 guys regard the d30 as junk to be swapped out. If it was an easy thing to do on our Liberty i think all but the most tame would have swapped already, but it is not easy or cheap.

I am going to have a talk with my local 4x4 guy/shop but more than likey i will be installing a Lock-Right locker in the front of my Liberty in a week or two. Search as i might i can not find all the horror stories people talk about and i think a locker will help keep the diff together rather than weaken it. Due to the control of wheel spin and increased traction.

Maybe in a week my front is blown, maybe two years goes by with no problems. But at least now we will know and i will make posts to keep everyone updated on the good and bad.

Inc · **Posted:** Thu Feb 19, 2009 2:51 am

There is a Poll going, yours b-n-b, and someone said they have the Lock Rite in their front end. Who was it? Please fess up whoever you are!

Back-n-Black · **Posted:** Thu Feb 19, 2009 2:54 am

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Thu Feb 19, 2009 8:59 am

So your going to spend up to $600+ in labor alone to install something that is not supposed to be used in a unlockable front diff anyways? You know that the front diff will need to be removed to install right? And by the book it is like 5-6 hours to remove the KJ's front diff.

Guest · **Posted:** Thu Feb 19, 2009 11:11 am

icarl wrote:

I think the bigger issue with the front auto locker is that it can be dangerous when driving on slippery surfaces like ice. Imagine going around an icy corner and your front wheels lock. :shock:

i vote Back-n-Black and ThunderbirdJunkie try it and report back. :wink:

Automatic lockers don't lock unless they're getting power. So I would have no problem putting one in the front diff.

Except for spending $300+ extra on a ticking time bomb

Back-n-Black · **Posted:** Thu Feb 19, 2009 12:15 pm

tjkj2002 wrote:

So your going to spend up to $600+ in labor alone to install something that is not supposed to be used in a unlockable front diff anyways? You know that the front diff will need to be removed to install right? And by the book it is like 5-6 hours to remove the KJ's front diff.

Short answer....Yes. I will either pay to have it installed or do it myself just like anyone who has a DTT put in there's. Only difference is when i am done i will have a true locker not a LSD. I was not aware the diff had to be removed to install, but if that is what needs to be done then so be it. Not like that is something special for this locker it has to be done on all LSD/lockers for the front i assume.

Like i said before this is not something i think everyone needs to do. Like every change a person makes to there jeep it needs to be what the owner wants and feels comfortable about. I off road often and want to have the best off road traction i can get. I am sick of getting stuck or having to carry more momintum than needed to get over obsticles because of open diff's.

jsc7002 · **Posted:** Thu Feb 19, 2009 1:08 pm

Back-n-Black wrote:

tjkj2002 wrote:

So your going to spend up to $600+ in labor alone to install something that is not supposed to be used in a unlockable front diff anyways? You know that the front diff will need to be removed to install right? And by the book it is like 5-6 hours to remove the KJ's front diff.

Short answer....Yes. I will either pay to have it installed or do it myself just like anyone who has a DTT put in there's. Only difference is when i am done i will have a true locker not a LSD. I was not aware the diff had to be removed to install, but if that is what needs to be done then so be it. Not like that is something special for this locker it has to be done on all LSD/lockers for the front i assume.

Like i said before this is not something i think everyone needs to do. Like every change a person makes to there jeep it needs to be what the owner wants and feels comfortable about. I off road often and want to have the best off road traction i can get. I am sick of getting stuck or having to carry more momintum than needed to get over obsticles because of open diff's.

the DTT and ARB require a professional install bc you have to set the ring and pinion. That statement is a contradiction to what you are about to do, if you want the best, the best is the ARB. :wink:

jerbacher · **Posted:** Thu Feb 19, 2009 1:21 pm

Here's a list of the circumstances of my breakage:

2002 Liberty Sport
probably around 70k miles at the time?
Part-Time 4x4 (command-trac t-case) engaged
open differentials front and rear
no esp, traction control or abs
245/75/16 Goodyear MT/R
Cragar Soft 8 steel wheels
front swaybar disconnected

This happened on a hill-climb in Wellsville, OH. It was a long and decently steep hill. Conditions on the hill were dry with a mix of loose dirt and rock. There was a rock step that we had to bump over almost at the top of the hill. I had my front tires up on that step and was trying to get my rear tires to bump up on top. Was spinning the wheels, but I didnt think I was giving it too much. I suppose one tire caught traction and blew the housing. The general concensus was that it was a surprising break because I wasnt really giving it that much. We all kind of theorized that it may have had some small stress fractures before hand from previous endeavours. i actually managed to drive it home very carefully.

tommudd, sean150 and myself fixed it using a salvage axle from an '03 with around 50k miles for $200 plus axle seals, fluids, RTV, a Uhaul tow dolly, and lunch for 3. i only bought the center section and reused my CV shafts as they didnt seem to be damaged.

no ill-effects yet from this repair or related issues. i now have 103k miles on the odometer.

Back-n-Black · **Posted:** Thu Feb 19, 2009 1:22 pm

jsc7002 wrote:

Back-n-Black wrote:

tjkj2002 wrote:

So your going to spend up to $600+ in labor alone to install something that is not supposed to be used in a unlockable front diff anyways? You know that the front diff will need to be removed to install right? And by the book it is like 5-6 hours to remove the KJ's front diff.

Short answer....Yes. I will either pay to have it installed or do it myself just like anyone who has a DTT put in there's. Only difference is when i am done i will have a true locker not a LSD. I was not aware the diff had to be removed to install, but if that is what needs to be done then so be it. Not like that is something special for this locker it has to be done on all LSD/lockers for the front i assume.

Like i said before this is not something i think everyone needs to do. Like every change a person makes to there jeep it needs to be what the owner wants and feels comfortable about. I off road often and want to have the best off road traction i can get. I am sick of getting stuck or having to carry more momintum than needed to get over obsticles because of open diff's.

the DTT and ARB require a professional install bc you have to set the ring and pinion. That statement is a contradiction to what you are about to do, if you want the best, the best is the ARB. :wink:

Thanks for the opinion, I appreciate it. But $1500 is not my opinion of a smart investment for a weak front diff.

jsc7002 · **Posted:** Thu Feb 19, 2009 1:24 pm

Back-n-Black wrote:

Thanks for the opinion, I appreciate it. But $1500 is not my opinion of a smart investment for a weak front diff.

haha sorry I was just wanting to mess with ya, $1500 is too much for me too which is why I dont have one lol, but the good thing about buying the ARB or DTT is that when you go SFA, if you use the HP D30 it should fit in there. :twisted:

jerbacher · **Posted:** Thu Feb 19, 2009 1:29 pm

some useful links from when mine blew

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=26861&highlight=diff

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=27264&highlight=diff

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=27129&highlight=diff

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