Great thread though---
Helps to understand how important an enhancement like lockers are and to be careful and skillful when doing some serious offroading especially when you can fell a front tire go into the air....

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2006 CRD LTD 2.8L VM Motori turbo,CAC, 100K-new timing belt
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And for her pleasure.


The fact is

Anything abused will break.

I bet if you give me a free pass with a stock TJ or JK rubicon, i WILL break something. And I'm saying stock, 0 miles on the odo, I WILL break something if I do not have to pay for it or the tow home.

In fact

I will guarantee you I can break anything you put me behind the wheel of. After Troy's 66" combine tires and rockwells go under his KJ, I bet I could break it.

Just keep your foot out of it if you don't want it to go boom.

From all the threads and stories it looks like one common thing with all of them, except mopr2diesel, a hill climb and front tire spin. The tires range from stock to 245/75 so it is not over sized tires. It seems most did not have ESP so that is out. It is almost split between DTT and open diffs with no other type of LSD or locker having broke one.

So what about the heavy right foot???? Anyone want to fess up to there breakage being from getting after it?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NmUl-hOY ... re=related

Right at 3:08 this vid shows the guy spinning this drivers tire fast and then as it slides down the hill it catch's and immediately throws the torque to the other tire. This is what i am leaning toward causing the problem.

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2003 Lib Renegade
3.7L V6, 45RFE TRANNY
NV242 Selec-Trac Full Time 4WD System
D30a FRONT ,Chrysler 8.25 OEM Dana Trac Lock Posi, 29 spline REAR, 3.73 gears

Yep driver error with a light duty diff.

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My Jeep Build ----> Big Black

Man i expected at least one person to fess up and admit they wheel there liberty hard, but i guess everyone sticks to the gravel roads only???

_________________
2003 Lib Renegade
3.7L V6, 45RFE TRANNY
NV242 Selec-Trac Full Time 4WD System
D30a FRONT ,Chrysler 8.25 OEM Dana Trac Lock Posi, 29 spline REAR, 3.73 gears

Do you see any gravel under my tires?

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Slightly modified Lt. Khaki 3.7 2004 LTD 4X4. Purchased new 8/6/03.
What I don't have....A Mag light mounted to my seat.
Original Old L.O.S.T. #000354

Nick's Pics & Mods click here: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/531173
http://www.survivaltopics.com/forums/

Nope, nothin to see here. Just a buncha mall crawlers.

Just because you wheel in challenging terrain does not mean you have to abuse your vehicle

Has any one heard of an old thing that people used to have called common sense? I know its real hard to find any more (kind of like pickled chickens feet) but with any vehicle out there made in the last 100 years there are some weaknesses that you overcome and deal with.

With the KJs front diff everyone knows its weaker than some solid front diffs and so wheel accordingly which means if you have some common sense you do not wheel it hard , you wheel it smart. Many have wheeled some of the roughest places out there and made it with no problems at all and some have wheeled smart but one time hit it wrong and busted the front diff. Truth be told they may have grenanded a 44 at the same spot, who knows.
In the end no matter if you have a locker or not or what tires you run you can and will break any front ( and /or rear diff) if common sense is not used.

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Holy Smokes Batman, did you actually make it to the top of that? I know my KJ wouldn't. You must have lockers.

Very well said Tom.I wheel the snot out of my KJ on some of the more knarly trails here in CO.I do not by pass obsticals either,I also don't get stupid with the gas pedal either.I do have a rear ARB and had a front DTT(sold diff) and to make the DTT "lock" I had to apply the brakes some which kept my speed low,1-2mph on obsticals, which ment that my front diff lived.

Awesome pics...but them front tires are cupped
(had to beat Tom to it)

12PSI makes it look funny when going from wet sand to rock,they were not cupped then in that pic.Actually they never cupped on me,now the outside edges started wearing faster when I removed my front diff/CV's/driveshaft/skid plates and didn't bother to align it for 2 months.

Great thing about Firestones lifetime alignment when you work at firestone,if I need a little boost in flag hours I just align my KJ ,.8 hours is .8 hours.

Glad to see that last comment sparked a little feedback in here, but...We are running in circles. BTW it was a joke i have seen some awesome pictures and vids of this forum tearing it up.

Common sense never broke a diff...or anything else for that matter. And going into every thread and telling people they have no common sense is getting old. Common sense is sound and prudent judgment based on a simple perception of the situation or facts. By definition.

In comes the hard part. What one person perceives as one thing another perceives completely different. Also the facts we have collected is that the diff may break at any time from towing on pavement to barely spinning the wheels in mud. Soooooooooooooo We have a bunch of different perspectives and very poor facts for this problem. So common sense doesn't do or mean a darn thing.

The facts we need is what force is breaking the diff, and why. Then we can figure out if it is possible to fix it or make it happen less often. So to keep the thread moving forward i pose a question.

In a solid axle when you get a lot of force at one time, from loading the tires or dropping off a ledge, you get axle wrap that takes some of the shock off the diff and components. What happens when our cradle mounted diff get a load of force in the same way? The diff can not move or flex at all because it is solid mounted to the cradle and in turn the frame. So the diff has to accept all the load at once without give and as said a million times our diff is aluminum and weak.

_________________
2003 Lib Renegade
3.7L V6, 45RFE TRANNY
NV242 Selec-Trac Full Time 4WD System
D30a FRONT ,Chrysler 8.25 OEM Dana Trac Lock Posi, 29 spline REAR, 3.73 gears