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 Post subject: EGR question
PostPosted: Wed Mar 25, 2009 6:02 pm 
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I have been reading this forum for a while and love the advice. Our Libby is throwing a EGR trouble code, just wondering if it actually needs to be replaced? If most people are deactivating it with the SEGR or ORM then shouldnt it be okay to not have it working?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 25, 2009 7:15 pm 
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I have been running with the orm for about 90,000 miles now and every thing is great except for having to replace the alternator pulley and a rear U joint and front rotors and pads at 64, K . I really enjoy the way it drives and all that torque.


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 Post subject: If the EGR valve is closed...
PostPosted: Wed Mar 25, 2009 8:31 pm 
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...ORM or SEGR will be a good fix. If it is stuck part way open or open, you will have exhaust leaking into the intake all the time.
Chances are if you unplug the MAF and the diesel sound increases and you get a boost in fuel economy, you have the EGR valve closed. If you can not tell the difference, the EGR valve may be stuck. Don't forget to factor in the odometer error when you figure mileage, I have to multiply my miles by 1.10 to correct the error.


MrMopar has posted soaking tricks for stuck EGR valves that have worked.
If you have a leeker, a plate may be a good fix.


Good luck

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 Post subject: 10% Odometer Error?
PostPosted: Wed Mar 25, 2009 11:28 pm 
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Odometer error? Mine seems pretty accurate. The speedo matches the GPS and the trip odo lines up with the mile markers on the highway. Have I missed a systemic problem somewhere on the board?

Sorry about jacking the thread...

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 Post subject: Re: 10% Odometer Error?
PostPosted: Wed Mar 25, 2009 11:46 pm 
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RabidRdKill wrote:
Odometer error? Mine seems pretty accurate. The speedo matches the GPS and the trip odo lines up with the mile markers on the highway. Have I missed a systemic problem somewhere on the board?

Sorry about jacking the thread...


most folks are off from the factory - My speedometer is almost dead-on (GPS) after switching to 245/75/16's
(Odometer got worse)

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 Post subject: Re: 10% Odometer Error?
PostPosted: Thu Mar 26, 2009 7:38 am 
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RabidRdKill wrote:
Odometer error? Mine seems pretty accurate. The speedo matches the GPS and the trip odo lines up with the mile markers on the highway. Have I missed a systemic problem somewhere on the board?

Sorry about jacking the thread...


Maybe it's your tires making up for the 10% that I see with my gps and stock badyears :lol:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 26, 2009 7:55 am 
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Quote:
most folks are off from the factory - My speedometer is almost dead-on (GPS) after switching to 245/75/16's
(Odometer got worse)

I don't get that one. Aren't the odometer and speedometer linked together? I thought they gathered data from the same point. Maybe I'm thinking of the old-timey odometers before the age of digital. My speedometer is off by about 3 MPH based on GPS info (Speedo says 70 MPH, GPS 67-68 MPH) so I just assumed odometer was off as well.
Oh BTW ATXKJ, Still haven't found anybody to bend that 1" rigid pipe, might as well go with toprail :cry:

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 Post subject: Sensors send the signals to the module
PostPosted: Thu Mar 26, 2009 12:41 pm 
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liberty2.8 wrote:
Quote:
most folks are off from the factory - My speedometer is almost dead-on (GPS) after switching to 245/75/16's
(Odometer got worse)

I don't get that one. Aren't the odometer and speedometer linked together? I thought they gathered data from the same point. Maybe I'm thinking of the old-timey odometers before the age of digital. My speedometer is off by about 3 MPH based on GPS info (Speedo says 70 MPH, GPS 67-68 MPH) so I just assumed odometer was off as well.
Oh BTW ATXKJ, Still haven't found anybody to bend that 1" rigid pipe, might as well go with toprail :cry:


The body module has the wrong flash and misprocesses the digital signal from the wheels. My speedo reads 5% fast and odometer reads 10% low, Chrysler could have fixed it, but they didn't. If I were to press the issue, they may fix it, but they would put the latest flash into my ECM and that may be worse than what I have now.
I trust a dealer to flash fix anything as much as a father would trust a dirt bag with his daughter on a all week end date in a cabin in the woods.

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Magnaflow 2 1/2" Cat Back
KJ Extra Leg Room Brackets, Carter Lift Pump, V6 Airbox, ORM
Fuel cooler, Oil Separator, Progard 7
Gauges EGT Boost Trans Temp Oil Pres, Michelin LXT AT2 245 70 R16
7,000# Draw Tight hitch, PML EX Deep Trans Pan
Centrifuge, SunCoast, Transgo, RAM TCM, InMotion Stage 2
Wife's 99 TDI VW Beetle


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 Post subject: Re: If the EGR valve is closed...
PostPosted: Thu Mar 26, 2009 1:36 pm 
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warp2diesel wrote:
...ORM or SEGR will be a good fix. If it is stuck part way open or open, you will have exhaust leaking into the intake all the time.
Chances are if you unplug the MAF and the diesel sound increases and you get a boost in fuel economy, you have the EGR valve closed. If you can not tell the difference, the EGR valve may be stuck.


What exactly do you mean, if "the diesel sound increases"?

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 Post subject: Re: If the EGR valve is closed...
PostPosted: Thu Mar 26, 2009 4:19 pm 
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linewarbr wrote:
warp2diesel wrote:
...ORM or SEGR will be a good fix. If it is stuck part way open or open, you will have exhaust leaking into the intake all the time.
Chances are if you unplug the MAF and the diesel sound increases and you get a boost in fuel economy, you have the EGR valve closed. If you can not tell the difference, the EGR valve may be stuck.


What exactly do you mean, if "the diesel sound increases"?


The diesel knock will increase slightly when there is more oxygen present in the combustion chamber. Reducing the oxygen supply reduces the diesel knock along with the efficiency. The 2.8L VM (also used for industrial, agricultural, and marine applications) is designed to run with out the EGR and can handle the slight diesel knock obtained when ORM or SEGR is implemented.

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Magnaflow 2 1/2" Cat Back
KJ Extra Leg Room Brackets, Carter Lift Pump, V6 Airbox, ORM
Fuel cooler, Oil Separator, Progard 7
Gauges EGT Boost Trans Temp Oil Pres, Michelin LXT AT2 245 70 R16
7,000# Draw Tight hitch, PML EX Deep Trans Pan
Centrifuge, SunCoast, Transgo, RAM TCM, InMotion Stage 2
Wife's 99 TDI VW Beetle


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 26, 2009 10:40 pm 
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Cant say I noticed an increase in the diesel knock, but I do also have a 15 year old turbo diesel 4x4 mitsubishi van so compared to that this thing sounds quiet. I did seem to notice that it runs smoother on the highway less shuddering. Might have to tear into the EGR and see what shape it is in and maybe make a blocking plate.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2009 1:04 am 
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If your EGR is functioning at all, you will hear a very pronounced change in the note of the clatter if you unplug the MAF while it is idleing. It is caused by the valve closing and the coprophagia coming to an end.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2009 2:07 am 
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nursecosmo wrote:
... and the coprophagia coming to an end.


Dude! That's awesome!!

I come to this forum to learn about the CRD, but as a bonus, my vocabulary is surreptitiously enhanced with esoterica! :P


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2009 2:12 am 
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Mosbys' medical dictionary is awesome. My favorite body part name is Sternocleidomastoid...After booby.

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