The quest for a better KJ for the wife

patracy · **Joined:** Tue Apr 07, 2009 8:50 pm **Posts:** 115

nursecosmo wrote:

patracy wrote:

Our liberty also has the 4.11 gearing as well.

You should update your sig line.

It came with 4.11 gears (from what the sticker said on it)? Or are you talking about the exhaust?

MrMopar64 · **Posted:** Fri May 01, 2009 2:37 pm

All KJ ATX was built with 3.73 gearing. All KJ MTX (for BUX) was built with 3.55 (if memory serves correct). If you compare the highest overdrive ratio in each trans, you'll see the overall effective FDR is about the same.

If it has 4.10/4.11 gears, it's aftermarket for sure.

patracy · **Joined:** Tue Apr 07, 2009 8:50 pm **Posts:** 115

MrMopar64 wrote:

All KJ ATX was built with 3.73 gearing. All KJ MTX (for BUX) was built with 3.55 (if memory serves correct). If you compare the highest overdrive ratio in each trans, you'll see the overall effective FDR is about the same.

If it has 4.10/4.11 gears, it's aftermarket for sure.

Guess I'll have to double check that. I was just going by what the window sticker said when we bought it from the dealership. I haven't payed attention, but is there a build sheet under the hood like my Dodge has? I know it lists the gearing there. Maybe it's just a typo from the dealership. Or maybe a way to find out via the VIN?

mrkake · **Posted:** Fri May 01, 2009 2:48 pm

patracy wrote:

mrkake wrote:

I'm confused here. Doesn't everyone say that 4:10's will get you back to your original mileage. Is that not the case? I average right around 19.5 now and I was right around 21.5 before putting on the MT/R's. That was the only change that I made, so I can only assume that the heavier tires are the culprit. Is this logic on the right track?

With a taller tire, lower gearing will help get the RPM's back up to where they were with the shorter tire. However, you'll always be against the heavier wheel/tire combo.

Yea, that makes total sense when I think it through from that angle. It's not like you are decreasing the mass or upping the horsepower. Thanks for the illumination!

Scott Langohr · **Posted:** Fri May 01, 2009 3:02 pm

If you have not removed and cleaned the Manifold Air Pressure sensor (MAP), that is one of the first things to do especially if the CCV (Crank Case Vent) is still piped in the intake air without being cleaned first by EHM or a Pro-vent. I have run the SEGR and EHM for about 15,000 miles and just cleaned mine during an oil change last weekend. Although it is much better every time I have cleaned it since doing the mods. it was still caked with gunk to a point that I doubt it was able to do it's job. I clean it with every oil change at 5,000 mile intervals and before any long trip. Not that hard to do. Look in the CRD Tech section for directions. Best milage recorded is 31.2 coming back home from Raleigh NC and the worst recorded 24.8 in the dead of winter but driving here in "fly-over" country using the odometer miles. My GPS indicates pretty close to odometer. I also disconnect the negative post from the battery for about 30 seconds after cleaning the MAP. I don't know if that does anything to help but it always seams to run better after doing both. I love the power but I drive like an old man.

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Sat May 02, 2009 8:00 am

patracy wrote:

Or maybe a way to find out via the VIN?

Get a build sheet for your jeep! I understand it can be ordered through the Jeep site. I got mine from the dealer and as MrMopar said it is 3.73

patracy · **Joined:** Tue Apr 07, 2009 8:50 pm **Posts:** 115

I'll be chatting with the dealership this week. The service manager/parts guy is into diesel performance. I'm going to see if he'd have any issue with the SEGR mod. As I cleaned the map sensor today. YUK! is all I can say. I will most certainly disable the EGR once the warranty is up. But if they'll let me do it before I'll do it sooner. I'll get them to get me a build sheet as well.

As for the mileage. Netted 24.6mpg this tank. I didn't mod the exhaust until a hair under 1/2 tank. Hopefully we'll hit 25mpg next tank with the exhaust ant the MAP cleaning. I also disconnected the battery while working on it to allow the computer to reset the values. I noted a smoother idle as well.

What has everyone seen mileage wise with the ORM/SEGR?

I asked the boss lady if I could ORM. She said no, she liked not having a CEL.

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Sun May 03, 2009 7:38 pm

patracy wrote:

I'll be chatting with the dealership this week. The service manager/parts guy is into diesel performance. I'm going to see if he'd have any issue with the SEGR mod. As I cleaned the map sensor today. YUK! is all I can say. I will most certainly disable the EGR once the warranty is up. But if they'll let me do it before I'll do it sooner. I'll get them to get me a build sheet as well.

As for the mileage. Netted 24.6mpg this tank. I didn't mod the exhaust until a hair under 1/2 tank. Hopefully we'll hit 25mpg next tank with the exhaust ant the MAP cleaning. I also disconnected the battery while working on it to allow the computer to reset the values. I noted a smoother idle as well.

What has everyone seen mileage wise with the ORM/SEGR?

I asked the boss lady if I could ORM. She said no, she liked not having a CEL.

When I was in the Auto Repair Business from ten to twenty five years ago, there were things I could not legally do, but owners could. The dealer/repair shop is bound by laws, regulations, and binding legal contracts that do not apply to owners that do it them selves. If the tech you talk to responds by saying, I can't do it, you need to listen between the words he has to say to get the whole truth.
If you need to pass emissions tests, consult the Forum for the tricks you need to do so you will pass with the ORM/SEGR in use.

One example that comes to mind were the pre '95 Ralph Nader designed airbags that could kill any one under 160lbs. I could not legally pull the fuse to deactivate the airbag, but I did show owners which fuse it was and let them do it, they could not be indited or prosecuted.
In fact I had a poster showing a blown ATO fuse which stated that Bill Clinton's dog "Buddy" would ship an Air Bag Deactivation Fuse (Blown Fuse) for $19.95. :lol:

Uffe · **Posted:** Mon May 04, 2009 6:53 am

MrMopar64 wrote:

All KJ ATX was built with 3.73 gearing. All KJ MTX (for BUX) was built with 3.55 (if memory serves correct). If you compare the highest overdrive ratio in each trans, you'll see the overall effective FDR is about the same.

If it has 4.10/4.11 gears, it's aftermarket for sure.

Does this count for european KJs as well?

patracy · **Joined:** Tue Apr 07, 2009 8:50 pm **Posts:** 115

warp2diesel wrote:

patracy wrote:

I'll be chatting with the dealership this week. The service manager/parts guy is into diesel performance. I'm going to see if he'd have any issue with the SEGR mod. As I cleaned the map sensor today. YUK! is all I can say. I will most certainly disable the EGR once the warranty is up. But if they'll let me do it before I'll do it sooner. I'll get them to get me a build sheet as well.

As for the mileage. Netted 24.6mpg this tank. I didn't mod the exhaust until a hair under 1/2 tank. Hopefully we'll hit 25mpg next tank with the exhaust ant the MAP cleaning. I also disconnected the battery while working on it to allow the computer to reset the values. I noted a smoother idle as well.

What has everyone seen mileage wise with the ORM/SEGR?

I asked the boss lady if I could ORM. She said no, she liked not having a CEL.

When I was in the Auto Repair Business from ten to twenty five years ago, there were things I could not legally do, but owners could. The dealer/repair shop is bound by laws, regulations, and binding legal contracts that do not apply to owners that do it them selves. If the tech you talk to responds by saying, I can't do it, you need to listen between the words he has to say to get the whole truth.
If you need to pass emissions tests, consult the Forum for the tricks you need to do so you will pass with the ORM/SEGR in use.

One example that comes to mind were the pre '95 Ralph Nader designed airbags that could kill any one under 160lbs. I could not legally pull the fuse to deactivate the airbag, but I did show owners which fuse it was and let them do it, they could not be indited or prosecuted.
In fact I had a poster showing a blown ATO fuse which stated that Bill Clinton's dog "Buddy" would ship an Air Bag Deactivation Fuse (Blown Fuse) for $19.95. :lol:

I suspect the same outlook. But I know, that he knows, if I were to do it, he'd have less issues coming in with intake issues. :wink:

patracy · **Joined:** Tue Apr 07, 2009 8:50 pm **Posts:** 115

What a difference cleaning the MAP and putting on a glasspack make!

I netted 27.5mpg this half of a tank. I can see 30 would be within range now. Just need to do the SEGR mod, and later on a Edge unit or something else.

Also got my PML pan and shift kit here as well. I was going to install them this afternoon, but she took off in the jeep. :lol:

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Sun May 10, 2009 4:31 pm

patracy wrote:

What a difference cleaning the MAP and putting on a glasspack make!

I netted 27.5mpg this half of a tank. I can see 30 would be within range now. Just need to do the SEGR mod, and later on a Edge unit or something else.

Also got my PML pan and shift kit here as well. I was going to install them this afternoon, but she took off in the jeep. :lol:

Depends on how gunked up it is, the worse it is the more you will benefit.

BTW: Glass packs rust out faster than a Stainless Steel Magnaflow. It takes a lot more salt to rust 304 Stainless Steel.

patracy · **Joined:** Tue Apr 07, 2009 8:50 pm **Posts:** 115

warp2diesel wrote:

patracy wrote:

What a difference cleaning the MAP and putting on a glasspack make!

I netted 27.5mpg this half of a tank. I can see 30 would be within range now. Just need to do the SEGR mod, and later on a Edge unit or something else.

Also got my PML pan and shift kit here as well. I was going to install them this afternoon, but she took off in the jeep. :lol:

Depends on how gunked up it is, the worse it is the more you will benefit.

BTW: Glass packs rust out faster than a Stainless Steel Magnaflow. It takes a lot more salt to rust 304 Stainless Steel.

Salt? What's that? I think we got about 1/2" of snow total last winter. :lol:

I've had a glasspack on my truck for over a year now that looks the same as it did when I put it on. At it isn't a painted muffler like the one I installed on the wife's jeep. I love all the hating I get on the glasspacks (get this same notion from others with my Dodge), but this is twice I've seen improvements by a $20 part. Not to mention I can buy several more of these mufflers for less than one of those magnaflows cost.

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Sun May 10, 2009 5:34 pm

patracy wrote:

warp2diesel wrote:

patracy wrote:

What a difference cleaning the MAP and putting on a glasspack make!

I netted 27.5mpg this half of a tank. I can see 30 would be within range now. Just need to do the SEGR mod, and later on a Edge unit or something else.

Also got my PML pan and shift kit here as well. I was going to install them this afternoon, but she took off in the jeep. :lol:

Depends on how gunked up it is, the worse it is the more you will benefit.

BTW: Glass packs rust out faster than a Stainless Steel Magnaflow. It takes a lot more salt to rust 304 Stainless Steel.

Salt? What's that? I think we got about 1/2" of snow total last winter. :lol:

I've had a glasspack on my truck for over a year now that looks the same as it did when I put it on. At it isn't a painted muffler like the one I installed on the wife's jeep. I love all the hating I get on the glasspacks (get this same notion from others with my Dodge), but this is twice I've seen improvements by a $20 part. Not to mention I can buy several more of these mufflers for less than one of those magnaflows cost.

Where I live in the Midwest, Winter and salt together is the norm. Only to be exceeded by the Detroit area where it is even worse for salt.
When I do it I chose to do it once, that is why I like Stainless Steel and I am willing to pay for it.
Honey do jobs in the same room as a faucet get Stainless Steel screws.
Yup, Stainless Steel has its' limitations, I would never use it in a high torque application, but for my exhaust, I have changed enough when I had my own repair shop for 14 1/2 years to last for the rest of my life even if I live to be 125.

patracy · **Joined:** Tue Apr 07, 2009 8:50 pm **Posts:** 115

Well I'll continue on with the cheapo glasspack. I'll let you know in a decade or two if it rusts out. :lol:

This weekend I plan on servicing the transmission, installing the shift kit, and PML deep pan. I'll also be installing a EVIC as well. Sunday I'll be tinkering with my cummins. (Installing drive pressure and additional boost gauge/pod)

Currently at 340ish miles on the tank. A little under the half way mark.

patracy · **Joined:** Tue Apr 07, 2009 8:50 pm **Posts:** 115

Installed the transgo shift kit yesterday along with the PML pan. I believe the shifts are a little tighter, but not earth shattering difference if you ask me. Mileage appears to be down to 24.7mpg on this tank. But I know some of the fault is the hour or so total idle time this tank had with all the tinkering I've done.

Also installed the EVIC today too. It works, but I've seen two issues since I installed it. The first thing was when we got ready to leave, the unit showed the rear passenger door as being open, even though it wasn't. Open and closed the door, still stayed on the display. Cycled the engine and all returned to normal. Next we headed to the gas station. Filled up and got back in. Was checking the trip odometer for mileage, then it started clicking up milage sitting still???? I had already had the mileage so I clicked the reset and all was fine then? Not sure what that was about...

patracy · **Joined:** Tue Apr 07, 2009 8:50 pm **Posts:** 115

Sorry haven't had time for an update as of late. But a good bit of things have taken place since. There was a leak on the rear main oil seal. While it was at the shop I took the opertunity to get the dealer to swap the TC for me while it was out. I picked up a custom converter from ASP. I haven't had a chance to drive it yet (wife took it out of town once we got it back) but she states it's got a lot more get up and go out of the hole. Also she states the overhead console has gained 2mpg for an average of 30.1mpg.

I think the next things on the list is a SEGR mod, elephant hose mod, lift pump, better filter, intake mod, then maybe a power adder.

DOC4444 · **Posted:** Sat Jun 13, 2009 2:35 pm

Patracy,

Please provide details about the ASP TC you bought. In particular, how was the pump cover and seal compatibility with TC housing issue dealt with?

Thanks,

DOC

patracy · **Joined:** Tue Apr 07, 2009 8:50 pm **Posts:** 115

DOC4444 wrote:

Patracy,

Please provide details about the ASP TC you bought. In particular, how was the pump cover and seal compatibility with TC housing issue dealt with?

Thanks,

DOC

Sorry, can't provide very much info on it since I never saw it. I had it shipped directly to the dealer. I can provide you with Wayne's number to talk to him aboutall the detials. He's very knowledgable about these converters. They need my core back, so I assume the housing is the same. But as Wayne informed me, theres a lot of work put in the internals.

DOC4444 · **Posted:** Sat Jun 13, 2009 6:34 pm

Patracy,

How about a look at the work order from the dealer. The parts list should answer how they dealt with my question. Do you know if your rig has had the TC recall done at some point earlier in its life and if so, if they replaced the pump at that time? (If you don't know, get a VIP report done by your dealer. You will probably learn some intersting things!)

DOC

The quest for a better KJ for the wife

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