Boiler's Roof Racks Production Recap Page 9 & Weld Xbar

Inc · **Posted:** Tue May 26, 2009 12:11 am

If I were to get a single moveable cross bar from you, it would have to be able to clamp to a 2" bar, plus I am not sure if there is enough room behind my last cross bar for a clamp to attach to.

Boiler · **Posted:** Tue May 26, 2009 9:24 am

It would be considerably more expensive for me to make a custom one for somebody elses rack. It wouldn't be bad if the clamp target was 1-1/2, because I could use the same machined knuckles, but I think to go on your rack we'd probably have to do a pair of custom knuckles and a custom crossbar bent tube. I'm assuming my outer bottom tubes that I clamp to are not the same spread as the tubes on your rack.

I have to buy knuckles and bent tubes in 20 or 30 piece quantities to get a decent price. For four prototype bent tubes they wanted to charge us like $85 each. I could make a custom one but it would probably run more than your rack cost in the first place, at least $150, and as high as $250 for one crossbar. Shoot me a PM if you want to discuss it further.

Boiler · **Posted:** Tue May 26, 2009 9:29 pm

KJ in CO wrote:

Geez Leweeze!!! I likey alot

... You better keep makin this thing, may take me a couple months to save up the loot, but she is gonna be mine! Oh yes, she will be mine! :lol:

We've got the fixture on hand and the parts cut and waiting to be welded. We're going to weld them as we get orders to save space.

I see from your signature that you're looking to upgrade your skids and rock rails. Stay tuned, they are on their way. Probably ready in July.

Inc · **Posted:** Tue May 26, 2009 10:05 pm

Boiler wrote:

It would be considerably more expensive for me to make a custom one for somebody elses rack. It wouldn't be bad if the clamp target was 1-1/2, because I could use the same machined knuckles, but I think to go on your rack we'd probably have to do a pair of custom knuckles and a custom crossbar bent tube. I'm assuming my outer bottom tubes that I clamp to are not the same spread as the tubes on your rack.

I have to buy knuckles and bent tubes in 20 or 30 piece quantities to get a decent price. For four prototype bent tubes they wanted to charge us like $85 each. I could make a custom one but it would probably run more than your rack cost in the first place, at least $150, and as high as $250 for one crossbar. Shoot me a PM if you want to discuss it further.

Yeah, I was saying in my earlier post that it would be more trouble than it would be worth. My roof setup only cost me $35, so to buy a single cross rail for any more than close to that, much less the prices you were talking about, doesn't make enough sense to me.

Sweet rack none the less. :wink:

Maximum Carnage · **Posted:** Thu May 28, 2009 2:56 pm

Marvelous work you have done their. So when are you going into mass production?

Boiler · **Posted:** Thu May 28, 2009 9:15 pm

As soon as we get mass orders :wink:

We're ready for them.

Inc · **Posted:** Fri May 29, 2009 1:50 pm

So who is going to man up and buy a rack first?

Did you ever build the nightmare rack for LIV42DY or whoever it was that wanted it?

VoodooMann · **Posted:** Fri May 29, 2009 2:16 pm

I already 'bought' the first rack, hahaha :lol:

Inc · **Posted:** Fri May 29, 2009 2:25 pm

VoodooMann wrote:

I already 'bought' the first rack, hahaha :lol:

Right on, so where are your pics? Was it the same one Boiler showed or was it you that wanted the nightmare rack?

Boiler · **Posted:** Sat May 30, 2009 3:31 am

Well, he's in process of buying the first. He gave me half up front and rest when he comes to pick it up. Bout 2 weeks from now.

Yeah, LIV42DY was the one that wanted the nightmare. I haven't had time to work on it though. We haven't discussed it in quite a while. I was actually thinking about maybe giving him what he really wanted, if he had "superfunds". He knows what I'm talking about. Don't tell LIV

The one I showed went on my rig.

I'm glad too because I jacked up the roof nutserts using thick (3/16") rubber and overtightening the bolts. The rubber supported the pads in most areas, but allowed the nutserts room to draw up to the foot where it compressed the rubber locally. It drew them up and they were spinning. Next, Tony (my welder) talked me into something: We tapped the nutserts down, seperating the two pieces of sheetmetal by about 1/16". Then he tacked them back into place. Little did I know that the 1/16" gap was a perfect channel for sparks to enter the vehichle while welding. It resulted in a burned drivers seat. It was not a good day. BUT it is resolved, and only my rig took the pain of that lesson, so all is good. We ended up insulating the rack from the roof using a 1/16" thick piece of high durometer rubber, and just snugged the rack and used locktite. Worked great.

MtnLuvr · **Posted:** Sat May 30, 2009 10:32 am

Looks great Boiler. A real class-act end result.

Congratulations!

Boiler · **Posted:** Mon Jun 01, 2009 12:43 am

Blarg! Accidentally deleted my PM's...Again!

Can all of you guys planning on buying one of my items please send me a fresh PM with your plans and contact info?

Thanks, and sorry for the trouble.

Chip

ribbon · **Posted:** Sat Jun 06, 2009 1:16 am

ordered one. getting it anodized black when it gets here, then will spray on some Nyalic. will post pictures when its done

Boiler · **Posted:** Sat Jun 06, 2009 2:29 pm

I'm psyched you're doing this. I should have done it with mine but I got it powdercoated so cheaply. Anodizing should be better without question. It makes a superhard layer on the aluminum that won't come off unless mechanically removed, like by a grinder or wire wheel. Make sure you talk to them about sealing it. Usually they are sealed in water or a chromium bath of some sort. What is nyalic? Some sort of clearcoat? I suppose it can't hurt to add it.

For those of you that aren't familiar with anodizing I'll explain it a bit. When steel rusts, it is the metal oxidizing, and it is accellerated by water, salt, etc. Aluminum oxidizes as well, but when it does, it's oxidation layer is very hard and renders the surface of the material inert (ie: won't continue to oxidize). Anodization is basically a process that accellerates oxidation evenly, rendering the part stable. It also leaves a superhard surface of aluminum oxide, which is often used in automotive sandpapers. This layer can also be dyed, prior to sealing (it is porous to a degree). So anodized & dyed parts look good as well.

VoodooMann · **Posted:** Sat Jun 06, 2009 4:55 pm

How much are they going to charge you to anodize it?

also, wont the inherent ability of the tube aluminum to flex crack the anodized coating?

ribbon · **Posted:** Sat Jun 06, 2009 4:58 pm

after the sealant it can be sprayed on. it is used in boating and such. Just gives it a bit of a shine. UV protectant... all that good stuff. Its very hard and can withstand well below freezing to 350oF give or take. They use it on airplanes to school buses. We use it in the shop on just about everything. They "say" you can paint your car with it and never have to wax again. I like waxing though.
I was thinking black... but might pick another color. going to look at the samples when i get there.
Unsure about the price. The guy owes me a favor. I will ask him about cost

http://www.nyalic.com/ to read more about it. clear coat

Boiler · **Posted:** Sat Jun 06, 2009 5:14 pm

At work we anodize scissor weldments for about 40-50, but they aren't dyed. They are larger and heavier though. I think the place we go to has a $100 minimum, but we're always way over that so I'm not sure.

The oxide layer can fracture, which is why you want it as thin as possible for fatigue loaded parts. Luckily aftermarket jeep parts aren't what I'd consider fatigue parts.

I'm not sure how the fractures look with dyed parts, but on raw parts they are so small you can barely see them if you're looking. They would never flake or chip like paint if it cracked, because the oxide layer is part of the metal, its not like a coating that's sticking to it. Now his spray on stuff may be different.

Lastly, you'd need a pretty solid load to deflect these parts enough to crack I think. Aluminum will bend about thrice as far as steel under the same load & material, but this thing is pretty darn rigid... I don't believe twisting an inch out of plane would even do it.

VoodooMann · **Posted:** Sat Jun 06, 2009 5:19 pm

Cool, I am having mine Mil-Spec coated, so I am not terribly worried about anodizing, I was just throwing it out there as a 'what if' :lol:

However, I might get mine anodized if the price is right, and i can get it done locally, that way I don't have to drive all the way to Michigan to get it done :lol:

Boiler · **Posted:** Sat Jun 06, 2009 5:38 pm

The powdercoater I used said their pretreatment would remove the anodizing, but I don't know if he's full of it or not...they don't normally powdercoat anodized stuff. We paint anodized stuff all the time at work and we have no problems.

TruLiberty · **Posted:** Tue Jun 09, 2009 8:44 pm

sick rack dude, is it possible to get this ordered with Hella's or something similar instead of the lights you used? look like CatEye Bike lights to me

Boiler's Roof Racks Production Recap Page 9 & Weld Xbar

Who is online