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 Post subject: Driveline Howl Diagnosis!
PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 9:40 am 
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I am stumped with this one.

I always had a slight driveline howl on my 06 CRD. The issue has magnified itself over the last little while and is most noticeable on deceleration around 30- 40 mph. No vibration or pulling associated. BTW, I just changed my u joints and all looked good a month back. Did standard side to side tests for wheel bearings and did not find anything either. I do change fluids regularly in both front back axles for transfer case. I have approx 80,000 easy highway miles with very little loading. I know pinion bearings can make this type of sound...but

Any advice on how to get to the bottom of this issue before something breaks is appreciated.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 2:05 pm 
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I had a similar issue after I switched back from the MT/R tires to the summer tires. Coasting like yours, with a harsh growl accelerating from a stop.

Turned out to be the front bearings. I too did the side to side turns for bearings and that sounded ok to me. But the dealer replaced the front bearings and the sound went away.

Unfortunately, they are 'lifetime' sealed bearings so off the top of my head I don't know any other diagnosis for them.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 5:33 pm 
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Thanks for the reply...I will check into the front bearing issue. BTW, how many $ for this repair?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jul 10, 2009 3:38 pm 
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Don't know. It was warranty work.

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2005 CRD Limited Flame Red w/ Renegade rock rails & light bar, AirLift 1000. 225/75R16 MT/R's on cheap black steel wheels, dual MOPAR subwoofers, Ipod kit & seat covers, Samco hoses - totaled and gone. 2008 WK Laredo 3.0L diesel - AirLift 1000, wife won't let me mess with it much. 2013 JK Sahara on order.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jul 10, 2009 4:23 pm 
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On my Ram 2500, it also has the sealed front hub/bearing assemblies, and I've had to replace both out of pocket...ouch!

When they were going bad, it too howled like bad tires and had no play. I was able to jack up the front of the truck and spin each tire - the one with the bad bearing had a dry, almost grinding noise to it and wasn't smooth all the way thru a 360° rotation. I would venture the same goes true for this application and would suggest trying that as it only costs you some time.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jul 10, 2009 10:28 pm 
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I did the jack and spin check and both sides appear to be dragging... dnot sure how much drag is normal with this transaxle but compared to a front wheel on a 2x4 it is worlds different. Is it normal to have a lot of resistance in this setup?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jul 10, 2009 11:16 pm 
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Blockman wrote:
I did the jack and spin check and both sides appear to be dragging... dnot sure how much drag is normal with this transaxle but compared to a front wheel on a 2x4 it is worlds different. Is it normal to have a lot of resistance in this setup?
No.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jul 11, 2009 2:25 pm 
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Thanks what I thought :cry:

What are the odds both sides are gone at the same time.???

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jul 11, 2009 2:34 pm 
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Seeing that to replace the wheel hub assembly on each side is $600...$1200 is a little rich for me right now. Does any one have a tutorial on the front wheel hub assembly replacement.

One last thing... what is the easy way to confirm that the front calipers are sticking? I would like to rule this out before I blow my nut changing the two hubs.



Thanks again.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jul 11, 2009 5:02 pm 
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The brake pads slide in channels in the calipers riding on stainless steel brackets. The brackets have a couple of ears that keep them in place. You grease the SS channels and the ends of the brake pads so they will slide easily.

If you've gotten into some water, the grease maybe gone and the pads no longer sliding, especially at the bottom side of the pad. I've also had the SS bracket ear break off and the channel slid outboard and was rubbing against the disk.

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