I was rotating my tires today and had the Jeep up in the air and got to wondering what binds first to stop the downward travel. Is it the ball joints? I only have to jack up the Jeep about 2 inches to get the tires off of the ground. Is this about what others have noticed? Seems like people with the Frankenlift would have even less since they are taller than Rustys coil lift.

Also, with the wheels off the ground, my spring and upper ball joint are about a 1/2 inch apart. How do some lifts cause these to hit each other, do they allow for more extension causing these to get closer?

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02 KJ Limited w/ offroad pkg, Sunroof, NP 242
Moab with 255/70 Grabber AT2's
Tweaked Rusty's Coil Lift w/ OME LT shocks
Mopar skids & Rocky Road Supersliders
http://www.cardomain.com/id/bighause

Retired Jeeps - 84CJ, 90YJ, 97XJ, 86CJ

In your case the strut is what is stopping it from falling further. The way some run into upper ball joint contact with the spring is effective length of the strut assembly is too long. Too much of an over-the top spacer, too much clevis lift, too long of a strut, daystar top plate.

When I put my front end back together during the lift, I had to compress the struts some to make it short enough to line up the bottom clevis bolt. I think they still have a half inch or so to extend when the wheel leaves the ground. There is still a lot of downward force on the clevis when the suspension stops drooping so I don't think its the strut, but I could be wrong.

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02 KJ Limited w/ offroad pkg, Sunroof, NP 242
Moab with 255/70 Grabber AT2's
Tweaked Rusty's Coil Lift w/ OME LT shocks
Mopar skids & Rocky Road Supersliders
http://www.cardomain.com/id/bighause

Retired Jeeps - 84CJ, 90YJ, 97XJ, 86CJ

It is the strut. I know it may not seem like it and you had to compress everything to go back in, but it is the strut in your case. If you want to prove it to yourself do some clevis lift and you will that the wheel droops futher. The entire strut assembly including the celvis clamp is now longer and allows more droop.

For example on the frankenlift, the daystar top plate allows more droop. This is accomplished by lowering the top mounting point for the strut. It will actually droop right into the spring. That is why they come with those little red poly bumpstops on the bottom of the strut assembly. They stop the droop just before contact with the upper a-arm and spring. Yes, with the Frankenlift you only have about 2" of droop before the wheels are off the ground.

Ok, it makes since now. If I put a front bumper on, I could put a thin spacer plate on top of the strut to make up for added weight since I have HD OME struts, and also get some extra droop. Just not so much that they contact. Thanks for the help!

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02 KJ Limited w/ offroad pkg, Sunroof, NP 242
Moab with 255/70 Grabber AT2's
Tweaked Rusty's Coil Lift w/ OME LT shocks
Mopar skids & Rocky Road Supersliders
http://www.cardomain.com/id/bighause

Retired Jeeps - 84CJ, 90YJ, 97XJ, 86CJ

once you get a lift-the control arms limit droop as they are not long enough. The uppers may contact the ball joint (they do on mine any ways) and lowers aren't real long (the longer they are the more travel they get, if you don't believe me-look at a prerunner style truck). If you get longer arms-you will need longer brake lines as they are too short.

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'02 KJ Sport V6 4x4
3/8" Clevis lift
Rusty's 2.5 lift
255/70/R16 Fleet Farm All Terrain (yes they work)
Class 3 hitch
Hellas
Police Scanner/CB radio
LOST #: JH061986

It depends on what strut he is running, how much clevis lift (if any) and if he is using the daystar top plate.

However, if your upper a-arm is not running into the springs than the strut is stopping the droop. If you upper a-arm is running into the spring then that is mostly likely what is stopping droop.

With the OME struts, stock top plate and no clevis lift you still have quite a bit of room to work. I had a similar set-up. I would say as long as you don't do much more than 1/2" clevis lift or a top plate thicker than 1/2" you will be just fine. I think I was able to run about 1/2" clevis lift and 1/4" top plate with my old OME struts without any contact between the spring and the upper a-arm.

You are absoutly correct. You will gain a little lift, plus a little more droop.