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 Post subject: Success!!
PostPosted: Mon Aug 17, 2009 10:15 am 
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Joined: Mon Jun 29, 2009 9:55 am
Posts: 12
Location: Barrie, ON
Hi All,

Thank you all for your help resolving this. My Turbo is fixed!

I ended up removing the turbo yesterday. It was not too bad of a job, other than a couple of bolts that are really hard to get to. With a combination of working from the top and bottom, I was able to get it out.

Once out, I was actually able to get at the lever that controls the vanes in the turbo. When it's installed, it is very tight against the engine and the actuator gets in the way. Mine was stuck solid.

The two halves of the turbo are held together with 10mm bolts, but once I removed them I realized it was too tight to take apart without heating. To be on the safe side, I opted just to soak the exhaust side of the turbo without taking it apart.

I used kerosene, mostly because I had some on hand, and thought it would be safe to use as it is oil based. After a few hours of soaking, I was able to easily free the lever and got the vanes moving again. I then did a couple of flushes while moving the lever - Just to get as much of the gunk out as I could!

Installing the turbo again was much easier - knowing the order of re-assembly and not having to fight with siezed nuts.

The actuator now moves up and down freely, and my CEL is gone. Also the off the line performance is much better than before. I used to have a noticable lag, now that is gone.

So if anyone is getting this P0299 code, from my experience,

1. Check CAC hoses for cracks / leaks
2. Check vacuum to turbo modulator (the one with the little filter on it) it should be around 25Hg
3. Check vacuum out of the modulator (should be around 15Hg)
4. Check for movement of the actuator arm when applying and removing the vacuum hose at idle. You should see it smoothly move up and down about 3/4 of the way. If it's not moving, your actuator may be bad, or like me the turbo vanes could be stuck.
5. Clean MAP sensor.


I hope this helps.. Thanks to everyone who has helped me find the resolution to this problem!


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 17, 2009 1:57 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 16, 2007 11:33 pm
Posts: 1766
Location: Wisconsin Northwoods
I know that you are happy that you have found the problem. Did you happen to take photos?

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Manure green 2005 CRD sport4x4, GDE Hot tune, Cat Gut, OE skids, Draw tight hitch, Duramax lift pump, 160K on multiple varieties of fuel, XM radio, Escort live with Redline, fog light mod, GPS, Icom IC7000 all band radio call sign KC9QPF, Grabber AT2s on Soft 8s, FIA grill blanket.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 17, 2009 3:08 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 29, 2009 9:55 am
Posts: 12
Location: Barrie, ON
I tried taking a couple of photos, but the quarters are so cramped in that area they were not much use.

Here is a very useful website with a disassembled garrett turbo, which is very similar to the one that I had in my jeep. If you wanted to disassemble, you could use this as a guide.

http://www.technologie-entwicklung.de/G ... turbo.html

Steps in taking the turbo out (from memory)

1. Remove two nuts that hold the coolant reservoir to the firewall - move out of the way.

2. Remove air intake hoses from the front of the turbo, including vacuum line to the actuator

3. Remove heat shield from top of Turbo - 3 bolts (from the top)

4. Remove exhaust from back of turbo. This is held on by a clamp, 10 mm bolt. This can be done from the top.

5. Remove oil feed line to the turbo, which is located at the very centre on the top of the turbo. Careful not to lose the crush washer.

6. Remove two bolts that hold the Turbo to the engine from the top.

7. Now you need to move underneath the Jeep - Remove bracket that holds the turbo to the engine block. This is 3 bolts, 2 in the engine and 1 to the turbo. Move this out of the way.

8. Remove the bottom oil line. This is located in the centre of the turbo on the bottom. two small bolts hold it on the bottom, on the engine side it is a pressure fit with rubber gasket.

9. Remove the 2 bottom bolts holding the turbo on the engine.

I will try and get some pictures posted to describe the initial troubleshooting I did.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 17, 2009 4:39 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 16, 2007 11:33 pm
Posts: 1766
Location: Wisconsin Northwoods
Actually, I already had that site bookmarked. Thanks though. I was interested in how much soot had built up in the nozzle and how it got there. I got my vanes stuck once by running too much waste motor oil in my fuel blend. A bottle of injector cleaner and a 20 minute Italian tune up fixed it. I always wondered what it looked like inside though.

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Manure green 2005 CRD sport4x4, GDE Hot tune, Cat Gut, OE skids, Draw tight hitch, Duramax lift pump, 160K on multiple varieties of fuel, XM radio, Escort live with Redline, fog light mod, GPS, Icom IC7000 all band radio call sign KC9QPF, Grabber AT2s on Soft 8s, FIA grill blanket.


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