Handful of issues...

durangotang · **Posted:** Sun Oct 11, 2009 2:16 am

Ok so it seems that my CRD is finally making me pay it some attention :lol:

After 55k lovely and trouble-free miles... it seems to be falling apart :roll:

Maybe you guys can help with some issues.... (note I have been running ORM and EHM from day 1)

1) Cold starts... it has always been a strong starter in the coldest of temps (sub zero). Now, if it's sub-50 it cranks a lot to start... more than it ever has needed to. There was a brief period where it wouldn't start at all but I changed the fuel filter and bled the line and that has gone away. I assume I need to bleed the line again but what else could be causing it.

2) I think my AC compressor is running all the time... anyone had the clutch seize up and do this?

3) My foot/head/defrost switch doesn't seem to work anymore... blower motor still changes speed but no air comes out anywhere... hmmmm

Any of these sound familiar?

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Sun Oct 11, 2009 7:43 am

1) are you still on the original battery?- cold weather current draws are when they show they're dying
(they typically get a fatal wound in excessive summer heat but don't die until it's cold)
you should probably get it stress tested to be sure (the other candidates would be corroded terminals or starter problems)

2) The AC compressor may be running all the time - because it's designed to run almost all the time - especially if you have the defrost on - or the defrost/floor - or floor setting - it helps dry the air. In cold weather you'll also get the viscous heater kicking on - additional drag on engine.

I don't know how to test the AC clutch separately - I'm sure tjkj knows - I'd bet you can pull a plug and measure a resistance or apply a voltage to turn it on/off

3) - The doors that direct the air different directions are controlled by vacuum lines - sometimes those pop off -
also if you park under trees - you can get leaves and junk pulled into the system and blocking the doors - a real pain to clean out.

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Sun Oct 11, 2009 7:51 am

Okay - cut and past from Manual pg 24-10

TESTS
(1) Verify the battery state of charge (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/BATTERY SYSTEM/BATTERY -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
(2) Connect an ammeter (0 to 10 ampere scale
selected) in series with the clutch coil feed terminal.
Connect a voltmeter (0 to 20 volt scale selected) to
measure voltage across the battery and the clutch
coil.
(3) With the A/C-heater control in the A/C mode
and the blower motor at low speed, start the engine
and allow it to run at a normal idle speed.
(4) The A/C compressor clutch should engage
immediately, and the clutch coil supply voltage
should be within two volts of the battery voltage. If
the coil supply voltage is OK, go to Step 5. If the coil
supply voltage is not within two volts of battery voltage,
test the clutch coil feed circuit for excessive voltage
drop and repair as necessary. If there is no
voltage reading at the clutch coil, use a DRB III t
scan tool and refer to appropriate diagnostic information
for testing of the compressor clutch circuit and
PCM control. The following components must be
checked and repaired as required before you can complete
testing of the clutch coil:
² Fuses in the junction block (JB) and the power
distribution center (PDC)
² A/C heater mode control
² A/C clutch relay
² A/C high pressure switch (diesel engine)
² A/C low pressure switch
² Powertrain control module (PCM) or the engine
control module (ECM) (depending on engine application)
(5) For the acceptable A/C clutch coil current draw
specifications refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING
- SPECIFICATIONS. Specifications apply
for a work area temperature of 21° C (70° F). If voltage
is more than 12.5 volts, add electrical loads by
turning on electrical accessories until voltage reads
below 12.5 volts.
(a) If the A/C clutch coil current reading is zero,
the coil is open and must be replaced.
(b) If the A/C clutch coil current reading is above
specifications, the coil is shorted and must be
replaced

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Sun Oct 11, 2009 11:01 am

Check the vacuum lines under the hood for your heater problem. To verify your AC runs all the time turn the heater control to "OFF' as the compressor runs on many settings. If it runs in the off position then you have a problem. Also the thing on the passanger side of the engine that has a electric clutch on it like an AC compressor is actually a vicious heater that is used to warm the coolant on cold days :lol:

For your starting problems. Try bleeding the air out of the filter before starting. If it starts better then think about a lift pump :wink:

Boiler · **Posted:** Sun Oct 11, 2009 12:52 pm

I get a puddle of water under the jeep when its warm, and I almost always have my heating/cooling system set to off. I get the feeling my ac is doing something wrong too...plus milage sucks :roll:

Handful of issues...

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