Calling LOST CRD Macguyvers....

durangotang · **Posted:** Sun Nov 15, 2009 4:32 pm

So, as some of you may know, I've been battling the air-in-fuel demons for a couple weeks now. Lots of air in the fuel every day...won't start when it's cold...runs fine once it's going...etc, etc...

I ordered a new fuel head and the lift pump parts... scheduled to be here over the next week or so from their various suppliers...

My question is: What can I do to band-aid this in the meantime so it will start reliably? (not the current crank-crank-sputter-crank-crank-crank-sputter) I have some driving to do over the next few days and this morning I couldn't get it started. :evil:

Not looking for anything permanent... those fixes are en route.

My ideas...
1. Pull heater plug and RTV it
2. Tighten everything I can find between the tank and engine

What else?? Sacrifice a goat? Plasticote the entire fuel head? Mount a gravity feed fuel cell on the roof? :lol:

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Sun Nov 15, 2009 5:05 pm

First I would pull the heater plug, clean out the plug hole with brake cleaner, dry it, and cram it full of Goop, Gorilla Glue, even Silicone if you must; then put duct tape over the plugged off area to keep it from running out. You can remove the filter head and use gravity to get the chosen sealant to stay into the plug hole until it sets up enough.
Next pop the hose off the down stream side and put in a temporary lift pump next to the filter head on the inlet side.
Run the one of the wires over to the fuse box and do a temporary hook up to the circuit that powers the regular lift pump. Even a Scotch Lock on the hot wire would last long enough to get you by until you get the real fix done. When you remove the Scotch Lock, seal the wire with liquid electrical tape or silicone.
Run the other wire to ground.
I hate Facet pumps, but I would use one before I had to do any walking.

MacGuyver fix, yup

durangotang · **Posted:** Sun Nov 15, 2009 5:19 pm

warp2diesel wrote:

First I would pull the heater plug, clean out the plug hole with brake cleaner, dry it, and cram it full of Goop, Gorilla Glue, even Silicone if you must; then put duct tape over the plugged off area to keep it from running out. You can remove the filter head and use gravity to get the chosen sealant to stay into the plug hole until it sets up enough.
Next pop the hose off the down stream side and put in a temporary lift pump next to the filter head on the inlet side.
Run the one of the wires over to the fuse box and do a temporary hook up to the circuit that powers the regular lift pump. Even a Scotch Lock on the hot wire would last long enough to get you by until you get the real fix done. When you remove the Scotch Lock, seal the wire with liquid electrical tape or silicone.
Run the other wire to ground.
I hate Facet pumps, but I would use one before I had to do any walking.

MacGuyver fix, yup

Now that's what I'm talking about... and the goat gets to live another day :lol:

OK ghetto peeps... I need a pic of where I'm splicing in the fuse box... I'll only have a couple hours to steal my GF's Jeep tmw and get this done :lol:

Silverdiesel · **Posted:** Sun Nov 15, 2009 9:20 pm

Go to Autozone-- P/N- Airtex M8012S

ALL stores have this in stock-- costs under $40!!!

Behaves just like the carter/ facet in line pump

Max 4 lbs pressure I believe-
This is going to be my lift pump mod but i will install on top of the fuel tank-- but you can install as mentioned - right before fuel manager intake leadead.

The counter employees at Autozone think you are crazy cause many do not believe and hard to convince KJ had a D2 option!

I will see about getting a picture of the right wire/circuit to attach but otherwise run hot 12 and put an in line fuse the same rating as circuited in fuse box - what 20 amps? Ground other side connect up everytime you fire up, disconnect at shutdown--or an in line switch--

FWIW
Roland

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Sun Nov 15, 2009 9:38 pm

worst case - walk out 10 minutes early and bleed air out of the system before you try to start it.

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Sun Nov 15, 2009 10:02 pm

durangotang wrote:

warp2diesel wrote:

First I would pull the heater plug, clean out the plug hole with brake cleaner, dry it, and cram it full of Goop, Gorilla Glue, even Silicone if you must; then put duct tape over the plugged off area to keep it from running out. You can remove the filter head and use gravity to get the chosen sealant to stay into the plug hole until it sets up enough.
Next pop the hose off the down stream side and put in a temporary lift pump next to the filter head on the inlet side.
Run the one of the wires over to the fuse box and do a temporary hook up to the circuit that powers the regular lift pump. Even a Scotch Lock on the hot wire would last long enough to get you by until you get the real fix done. When you remove the Scotch Lock, seal the wire with liquid electrical tape or silicone.
Run the other wire to ground.
I hate Facet pumps, but I would use one before I had to do any walking.

MacGuyver fix, yup

Now that's what I'm talking about... and the goat gets to live another day :lol:

OK ghetto peeps... I need a pic of where I'm splicing in the fuse box... I'll only have a couple hours to steal my GF's Jeep tmw and get this done :lol:

You could pull the fuse for the fuel pump, slip the wire in and reinsert the fuse, crude but half @$$ sterio installers do it all the time. I would check which side is hot with the fuse pulled out first and put the wire on the down stream side.

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Sun Nov 15, 2009 10:35 pm

durangotang wrote:

warp2diesel wrote:

First I would pull the heater plug, clean out the plug hole with brake cleaner, dry it, and cram it full of Goop, Gorilla Glue, even Silicone if you must; then put duct tape over the plugged off area to keep it from running out. You can remove the filter head and use gravity to get the chosen sealant to stay into the plug hole until it sets up enough.
Next pop the hose off the down stream side and put in a temporary lift pump next to the filter head on the inlet side.
Run the one of the wires over to the fuse box and do a temporary hook up to the circuit that powers the regular lift pump. Even a Scotch Lock on the hot wire would last long enough to get you by until you get the real fix done. When you remove the Scotch Lock, seal the wire with liquid electrical tape or silicone.
Run the other wire to ground.
I hate Facet pumps, but I would use one before I had to do any walking.

MacGuyver fix, yup

Now that's what I'm talking about... and the goat gets to live another day :lol:

OK ghetto peeps... I need a pic of where I'm splicing in the fuse box... I'll only have a couple hours to steal my GF's Jeep tmw and get this done :lol:

You could pull the fuse for the fuel pump, slip the wire in and reinsert the fuse, crude but half @$$ stereo installers do it all the time. I would check which side is hot with the fuse pulled out first and put the wire on the down stream side. Wait, that may make the pump run all the time. Better yet, down load the FSM.

durangotang · **Posted:** Mon Nov 16, 2009 1:05 am

OK... revised plan...

1. Pull plug
2. Gorilla glue plug hole :lol:

3. Tighten anything threaded
4. Buy new battery
5. Bleed fuel line
6. Hope it starts... :shock:

7. When it doesn't start, buy cheapo pump and ghetto wire it

8. Make it start.... (WWCND?)

Bring it KJ!!! :lol:

BlackLibertyCRD · **Posted:** Mon Nov 16, 2009 1:06 am

I been running my Facet 40109 Pump for over two years and 75,000 miles so it can't be all that bad.

durangotang · **Posted:** Mon Nov 16, 2009 4:59 pm

OK so I've done a few things thus far but had a question... might be a dumb one but I don't have another CRD to compare to. When you prime the system until there's good resistance... how long does it stay that way without trying to run the engine??

I primed the fuel (until firm) and did some other things... then went back and pushed the primer again 5 minutes later and it was soft. Should it be losing pressure like that? Also, take into account that no air is coming out of the bleeder... just a stream of diesel.

(wow this could all be read differently if it weren't a CRD forum :lol:

)

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Mon Nov 16, 2009 7:26 pm

You can pump it up firm, but if you don't bleed out the air, the CRD is a no go for sure.

GreenDieselEngineering · **Joined:** Sun Jun 07, 2009 5:10 pm **Posts:** 1111

It took 10 pushes to build solid restistance in the primer, after 5 minutes all the pressure was gone and another 10 times to prime. After one 1 minute of nothing, it took another 5 pushes to prime the system.

The volume of the pressurized fuel is not much and it helps to have someone slowly pressing the primer constantly, while trying to start the vehicle to help fill the rail with fuel. This was a life saver on the mountains when our 2005 stalled during a test trip.

Good luck!

durangotang · **Posted:** Mon Nov 16, 2009 10:16 pm

So I got the KJ started and running well

I bought a fancy-shmancy battery charger and fully charged the battery.

Plugged the block heater in.

Sealed the heater plug hole.

Replaced fuel filter.

Changed the oil.

Primed. Bled. Primed. Bled. Etc.

Then it started right up... :roll:

Go figure...

dgeist · **Posted:** Tue Nov 17, 2009 11:55 am

durangotang wrote:

So I got the KJ started and running well

I bought a fancy-shmancy battery charger and fully charged the battery.

Plugged the block heater in.

Sealed the heater plug hole.

Replaced fuel filter.

Changed the oil.

Primed. Bled. Primed. Bled. Etc.

Then it started right up... :roll:

Go figure...

And all without the use of duct-tape, a victorinox knife, or Richard Dean Anderson

geordi · **Posted:** Tue Nov 17, 2009 5:47 pm

Don't be hating on the Angus McMullet... His engineering style has saved MANY a project!

BTW: I've been running with one of those Mr Gasket / Facet / AutoZone $40 fuel pumps for more than a year now, mounted at the fuel tank in-line with the factory lines, and "ghetto wired" into the engine's fuse box... Without any problems. Makes changing a filter SO much easier!

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Tue Nov 17, 2009 10:30 pm

geordi wrote:

Don't be hating on the Angus McMullet... His engineering style has saved MANY a project!

BTW: I've been running with one of those Mr Gasket / Facet / AutoZone $40 fuel pumps for more than a year now, mounted at the fuel tank in-line with the factory lines, and "ghetto wired" into the engine's fuse box... Without any problems. Makes changing a filter SO much easier!

Don't want any of the buddies of the Gitmo guys visiting you :lol:

geordi · **Posted:** Tue Nov 17, 2009 11:02 pm

warp2diesel wrote:

geordi wrote:

Don't be hating on the Angus McMullet... His engineering style has saved MANY a project!

BTW: I've been running with one of those Mr Gasket / Facet / AutoZone $40 fuel pumps for more than a year now, mounted at the fuel tank in-line with the factory lines, and "ghetto wired" into the engine's fuse box... Without any problems. Makes changing a filter SO much easier!

Don't want any of the buddies of the Gitmo guys visiting you :lol:

Huh? I don't get the Gitmo reference. :?:

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Wed Nov 18, 2009 12:50 am

geordi wrote:

warp2diesel wrote:

geordi wrote:

Don't be hating on the Angus McMullet... His engineering style has saved MANY a project!

BTW: I've been running with one of those Mr Gasket / Facet / AutoZone $40 fuel pumps for more than a year now, mounted at the fuel tank in-line with the factory lines, and "ghetto wired" into the engine's fuse box... Without any problems. Makes changing a filter SO much easier!

Don't want any of the buddies of the Gitmo guys visiting you :lol:

Huh? I don't get the Gitmo reference. :?:

Americans of every ethnic background have found their way out of the gettos and have done well. Some of the Gettos are becoming terrorist breeding/recruiting grounds. Guess I am a little miffed about the plan to move Gitmo prisoners to Thompson in North Western Illinois. I fly out of Chicago Midway & O'Hare and the Gitmo buddies and family will be flying into and out of those airports as well, if this rotten deal goes through.

Calling LOST CRD Macguyvers....

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