hard starting/won't stay running

dkenny · **Posted:** Wed Nov 18, 2009 6:46 pm

crap..the wife's jeep isn't running right.
symptons.
hard to start..cracks fine but doesn't wan't to fire..when it does fire it doesn't sound like its running on all 4 cyl. if it stays running and smooths out it runs fine, but stop for 15 or so minutes and hard starting again.

I'm wondering what else I should check, not necessarily in this order
1. EGR
2. FCV
3. fuel filter..there is a afterarket fuel pump that seems to be working..I'll also verify this.

the last codes were P0107 and p0113( dummy me forgot to plug the map sensor back in before starting). cleared these. I'll check for codes again in the morning, but I don't think there are any.

thoughts?

-dkenny

barnez224 · **Joined:** Fri Jan 19, 2007 11:28 am **Posts:** 130

Just to be sure...have you purged the fuel filter to make sure you don't have any air in the lines. I would also check your heater plug on the fuel filter. The last time I had a condition like that my heater plug was melted and that's where the leak was coming from. Just a thought...try the easy checks first!

dkenny · **Posted:** Wed Nov 18, 2009 7:02 pm

this I have done..more than once and no air.

the heater plug is out..and not leaking..the temps aren't low enough to cause a problem with biodiesel.

my other 2 diesel have the same fuel and no problems running.

-dkenny

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Wed Nov 18, 2009 8:39 pm

clogged fuel filter?

dkenny · **Posted:** Wed Nov 18, 2009 10:06 pm

I've thought about that, but if it gets started it seems to run fine..no power loss.
I've not tested turning it off for a couple of minutes after getting it running to see what happens..

upshot - I haven't ruled this out yet..something to check

-thanks

-dkenny

flman · **Posted:** Thu Nov 19, 2009 7:38 am

Any competent diesel mechanic is going to change the fuel filter and check the air filter 1st, so that is a good place for you to start as well.

MOSFET · **Joined:** Sat Feb 25, 2006 11:40 pm **Posts:** 295

Could the fuel pump be going bad?

Purging air and changing the fuel and air filters are the first things to try. Assuming all these do not work, I think it only leaves the fuel pump (or maybe a leak in the lines).

dkenny · **Posted:** Thu Nov 19, 2009 5:39 pm

thanks for the help guys.

It was the fuel filter.. I changed it only 2500 miles ago...my must have gotten some dirty diesel from somewhere.
the biodiesel that I make it filter to 2micron for 2-4hours then transfered to a storage tank. from there it pumped out through another 2 micron filter. So I pretty sure its not the biodiesel.

I just glad I didn't need to tear into the FCV or EGR( again).

-dkenny

dkenny · **Posted:** Fri Nov 20, 2009 7:27 pm

wife drove the jeep today..

same hard starting problem.. also does seem to run smooth just off idle

so FCV or EGR or something else?

-dkenny

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Sat Nov 21, 2009 8:41 am

dkenny wrote:

wife drove the jeep today..

same hard starting problem.. also does seem to run smooth just off idle

so FCV or EGR or something else?

-dkenny

Whatever plugged your filter may have plugged your new one :shock:

Also did you make sure the O ring from the first filter was removed :?:

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Sat Nov 21, 2009 8:45 am

is the fuel head manual pump solid before you try to start?

you might have a small leak that allows an air bubble to build up when it sits
but not big enough to stumble while it's running

are you on the original fuel head ?

(My EGR problem had codes - don't remember which - but CEL and codes)

dkenny · **Posted:** Sat Nov 21, 2009 5:10 pm

o-rings were removed..also figured out a much easier way to change the filter..unmount the filter head..

the filter head is not the original. replace under warranty around 30k miles it not has around 51k.

I have added an electric pump. so air shouldn't be an issue..but the lines might have developed a leak and the new pump is drawing in air. at the moment the fuel heater is unplugged and not leaking. I will try manually pumping it just to see what happens..

I have removed the EGR before...It was NO fun..I used lots of not nice words..

if the filter was plugged then should performance suffer at speed.? this is not the case. once its running and above 1k rpm its seems fine.

-dkenny

dkenny · **Posted:** Sun Nov 22, 2009 5:58 pm

I notice a new symptom today..the AC was on but the dash switch was off..is this normal?
removing the AC relay didn't help the running/starting problem, however.

I checked the FCV..it seems to be working.opening and closing..

its getting close to removing the EGR again.

-dkenny

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Sun Nov 22, 2009 8:50 pm

The AC runs in bi-level, heat and defroster positions on later KJ's :shock:

It dries or keeps dry the interior :lol:

There's a mod where you can hack up the switch but it's not something I would do :lol:

.
I didn't read where you mounted your pump but I suspect some air leaks are in the plastic quick connect on top of or just foward of the fuel tank

When I put my in tank pump on the I noticed they were really loose fitting :wink:

dkenny · **Posted:** Mon Nov 23, 2009 8:23 am

so the AC runs depending on the switch position(heat, defrost..) as well as the AC push button?

I had the pump mount up front..I'll have to check the lines in the rear..I'm planning on moving the pump to the back anyway.

Thanks

-dkenny

danoid · **Posted:** Mon Nov 23, 2009 11:28 am

dkenny wrote:

at the moment the fuel heater is unplugged and not leaking.-dkenny

Try plugging the fuel heater back in. The electrical connector is part of the seal I believe. I've disabled my heater by leaving the plug in, and killing the relay at the fuse box near the battery (remove the relay armature).

dkenny · **Posted:** Mon Nov 23, 2009 9:45 pm

won't taking the relay out be just as easy?
the other option would be to cut the wire to the heater and added a connector. something to try.

I should have added to the post this morning about the AC..whew..that is one item off the list..Thanks again.

-dkenny

Herk · **Posted:** Tue Nov 24, 2009 3:54 am

If you read this last post it solved the same issue. Good luck

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/vie ... hp?t=47949

danoid · **Posted:** Tue Nov 24, 2009 2:26 pm

dkenny wrote:

won't taking the relay out be just as easy?-dkenny

Yes. But. The juction box does not have a sealed cover. I was concerned about dirt getting into the connection and wanted to keep it clean in case I wanted the fuel heater or viscous heater back.

dkenny · **Posted:** Tue Nov 24, 2009 7:29 pm

good point on why to leave an empty relay in the fuel heater slot.

so on the list to check/change/ fix...

fuel line from the tank to the hardline.
plug the fuel heater plug in but disable the heating from the relay
move the fuel pump to the rear and wire into the harness under the rear seat..this will take some time, but I plan on doing this.
remove and clean the EGR. I checked the FCV and it seems to be working. this is might be before the fuel pump mounted in the rear.
Install a SEGR or GDE..??if I go with either the EGR gasket somehow will just be missing the big hole.

not related to this specific problem..
check the wiring from the harness to passenger rear wheel speed sensor..I hope this fixes what my wife describes as a pinball machine..
randon lights and beeps..strange messages in the OD..GASCAP..according the FSM..this is disabled in the diesels..
the other really strange is the red LED security light comes on and stays..this wouldn't be strange if we HAD the security package...

Thanks for the help

-dkenny

ps is there a way to make the AC button be the only control for the AC..the mix selector shouldn't turn on the AC..to me this seems like another oops that was made in the design..

hard starting/won't stay running

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