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 Post subject: airbag troubleshooting
PostPosted: Mon Dec 14, 2009 5:40 pm 
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so my light for the passenger airbag stays on, the one directly in front of the shifter next to the hazard lights and such. also the dash airbag light stays on. any ideas as to where to start?

also, if any of you have had the center console out, whats that little white box with one connector on it between the rear floor vents?


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 Post subject: Re: airbag troubleshooting
PostPosted: Mon Dec 14, 2009 6:06 pm 
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DirtyKK wrote:
so my light for the passenger airbag stays on, the one directly in front of the shifter next to the hazard lights and such. also the dash airbag light stays on. any ideas as to where to start?

also, if any of you have had the center console out, whats that little white box with one connector on it between the rear floor vents?


The white box is the AC power inverter......

Were you playing in side the console an forgot to hook every think back up?

Can you pull codes?

The black box the is in front of the parking brake is a part of the airbag system...

I need codes

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OEM & Custom Skids - Factory Tow Package - Rock Lizard Skink Super Sliders
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 14, 2009 6:12 pm 
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You need to look for either a B000 code or a U000 code
If you don't have a scan tool, you might try this

1. Enter car, shut door.
2. Put on the emergency brake and tranny in "Park"
3. Hold down trip button.
4. Turn key to "ON" position and let off the trip button.
5. You will get a light show along with dancing gauges!
6. Do not start the car, Once it is done running its system checks the gauge cluster will return to normal and you can be on your way!

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2008 KK Liberty Sport NIGHT OPS EDITION + GILLS
OEM & Custom Skids - Factory Tow Package - Rock Lizard Skink Super Sliders
Prototype JBA 4 Inch Lift - JBA UCA's - Flowmaster Super 44 OR - Whacked Resonator
Jet Stage 2 - RL Gecko Basket Rack - Custom Winch Bumper - Recon 10.5K Winch
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 14, 2009 6:48 pm 
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i forgot to mention this happened as i was going over a speed bump. nothing fast or making the car bounce around alot or anything so it may just be coincidence.

i have no engine light, so im taking that as i dont have any codes?? should i try pulling some anyway? i did the little reset you told me to do with no change.

i was thinking with it being that the pass airbag light was on it might be a sensor or something under that seat. i look underneath there and there is a small black box with two similar connectors. if i disconnect those the pass airbag light comes on and then there is a delay before the dash one comes on, if its connected the pass and dash light come on very soon of each other. any idea what that is?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 14, 2009 7:01 pm 
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If the light in the dash is lit up, there is a fault in the air bag system

The test is not a reset. It test out the gauges and and will display P000 trouble codes. I don't know if it will read codes from other systems like ABS or airbags..... When you do the test, if you look at the OD. if it can read codes from the BCM, it should display them. If you can get a code, it will make things a lot simpler.

Don't play with the back box :wink:

Try disconnecting the passenger seat weight sensors to see if it solves the problem........


The Occupant Restraint Controller (ORC) (1) is secured with four screws to a molded plastic mounting bracket (5). The mounting bracket and ORC unit is then secured with two nuts and two screws to a stamped steel mounting bracket welded onto the top of the floor panel transmission tunnel between the two front seats beneath the floor console and rearward of the transmission gearshift mechanism in the passenger compartment of the vehicle. Concealed within a hollow in the center of the molded plastic ORC housing is the electronic circuitry of the ORC which includes a microprocessor, an electronic impact sensor, an electronic safing sensor, and an energy storage capacitor. A molded plastic end cover plate with a rubber O-ring seal is secured to the open end of the ORC housing with two integral latch features to enclose and protect the internal electronic circuitry and components.

An arrow (4) printed on the label (3) on the top of the ORC housing provides a visual verification of the proper orientation of the unit, and should always be pointed toward the front of the vehicle. The ORC housing has four integral mounting flanges with metal sleeves to provide crush protection. Two molded plastic electrical connector receptacles (2) are integral to the end cover plate. These receptacles connect the ORC to the vehicle electrical system through dedicated take outs and connectors from the instrument panel and the body wire harnesses.

The impact sensor and safing sensor internal to the ORC are calibrated for the specific vehicle, and are only serviced as a unit with the ORC. The ORC cannot be repaired or adjusted and, if damaged or ineffective, it must be replaced as a unit with the molded plastic mounting bracket.



WARNING: To avoid serious or fatal injury on vehicles equipped with side curtain airbags, disable the Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) before attempting any Occupant Restraint Controller (ORC) diagnosis or service. The ORC contains a rollover sensor, which enables the system to deploy the side airbags in the event of a vehicle rollover event. If an ORC is accidentally rolled during service while still connected to battery power, the side curtain airbags will deploy. Disconnect and isolate the battery negative (ground) cable, then wait two minutes for the system capacitor to discharge before performing further diagnosis or service. This is the only sure way to disable the SRS. Failure to take the proper precautions could result in accidental airbag deployment.

WARNING: To avoid serious or fatal injury on vehicles equipped with airbags, disable the Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) before attempting any steering wheel, steering column, airbag, Occupant Classification System (OCS), seat belt tensioner, impact sensor, or instrument panel component diagnosis or service. Disconnect and isolate the battery negative (ground) cable, then wait two minutes for the system capacitor to discharge before performing further diagnosis or service. This is the only sure way to disable the SRS. Failure to take the proper precautions could result in accidental airbag deployment.

WARNING: To avoid serious or fatal injury, never strike or drop the Occupant Restraint Controller (ORC), as it can damage the impact sensor or affect its calibration. The ORC contains the impact sensor, which enables the system to deploy the SRS components. If an ORC is accidentally dropped during service, the module must be scrapped and replaced with a new unit. Failure to observe this warning could result in accidental, incomplete, or improper SRS component deployment.

CAUTION: On vehicles equipped with the Occupant Classification System (OCS), never replace both the Occupant Restraint Controller (ORC) and the Occupant Classification Module (OCM) at the same time. If both require replacement, replace one. Then perform the Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) verification test before replacing the other. Both the ORC and the OCM store OCS calibration data, which they transfer to one another when one of them is replaced. If both are replaced at the same time, an irreversible fault will be set in both modules.

NOTE: The Occupant Restraint Controller (ORC) should only be removed as a complete unit with the molded plastic mounting bracket. The service replacement ORC is supplied already installed on a new bracket.


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2008 KK Liberty Sport NIGHT OPS EDITION + GILLS
OEM & Custom Skids - Factory Tow Package - Rock Lizard Skink Super Sliders
Prototype JBA 4 Inch Lift - JBA UCA's - Flowmaster Super 44 OR - Whacked Resonator
Jet Stage 2 - RL Gecko Basket Rack - Custom Winch Bumper - Recon 10.5K Winch
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 14, 2009 7:25 pm 
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well good thing i disconnected the battery and waited a few minutes while i tinkered with other things before getting to that. :lol:


this seems to me more then likely the component so if i cant get it to work and its necessary to order a part ill go with that. its only $145 compared to some of the other air bag components. :shock:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 14, 2009 7:32 pm 
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SRS codes will not display with that key-on/key-off trick and most scanners can not read or clear SRS codes.You really need to have it checked out by a dealership that have the proper tools to diag a SRS system.This is so un-trained persons and idiots do not mess with the SRS system due to the use of pyrotechnics,if you pop that airbag it will cost you well over $1000 to have it repaired correctly.I know from working at a dealership bodyshop it was never less then $1500 to replace the airbags which included the impact sensor that triggered it,the clock spring,and the SRS controller.Caddies where worse,the bill would be over $2500 since they always broke the dang dash when the passenger side popped.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 14, 2009 7:39 pm 
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thanks for your help guys, ive fixed it. i took that module off the bottom of the seat. took it apart and sprayed the connectors and circuit board with canned air you would spray on your computer. put it back together and bam no lights. sometimes it helps being an aircraft maintainer i suppose :roll:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 14, 2009 7:39 pm 
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sweet 8)

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2008 KK Liberty Sport NIGHT OPS EDITION + GILLS
OEM & Custom Skids - Factory Tow Package - Rock Lizard Skink Super Sliders
Prototype JBA 4 Inch Lift - JBA UCA's - Flowmaster Super 44 OR - Whacked Resonator
Jet Stage 2 - RL Gecko Basket Rack - Custom Winch Bumper - Recon 10.5K Winch
Image


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 15, 2009 12:33 am 
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DirtyKK so how did the interior go back together? Easy? PITA? Hows the rug holding up? Just curious.

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Prev Vehicles: 1979 Caprice, 1997 TJ2.5, 1997 TJ4.0, 2000 Honda Civic, 2000 Dakota4.7, 2001 Explorer, 1985 VW golf, 2004 WJLTD, 2004 WJ4.0, 2005 TJX, 2007 F-150, 2004 WJ4.7, 2004 WJ4.7 LTD, 2009 KK, 2002 WJ4.7, 2004 WJ4.7 LTD + 2007 Kia Rio


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 15, 2009 2:00 am 
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Wow, that must have been scary. As I was reading I was grinding me teeth, thinking if that thing deploys, that would not be a good day. I'm glad you got it fixed and was only a matter of air can.

On a side note, how is the Rock Krawler lift working for you? I'm still on the fence, but about to jump to the other side. I got the money for it + shocks but don't plan on A'Arms for a while. How long have you had your lift for? If you were buying a the lift today after owning it, would you buy it?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 15, 2009 7:36 am 
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the interior went back together well, fairly easy but ive pulled interiors before. you would never know the interior was wet really.

trust me rivera i was nervous messing with the airbag system. from what ive heard though is that the system is disabled if you have the dash light on and i made sure to disconnect the battery for everything. as far as the RK lift. if youre buying a budget lift it was an easy install cause you dont need a spring compressor for the front. if i were to do another budget lift i would pry do it again. ive had this one for like 2 months. i am however debating on ordering the new jba lift, so mine might be for sale shortly. :wink:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 15, 2009 1:00 pm 
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I'm glad your KK is nice and dry and everything is back to normal. I'd like to see some pics. As for the lift let me know if you are planning to sell it and how much you want for it. I know, I would like the 2.5 or 4 JBA but I wont buy it for a few long years. So for a while, I'll have to stick w a less expensive lift. Let me know if you decide to sell yours, Via PM or which ever way you prefer.

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