Picked up another CRD today!

LibertyCRD · **Posted:** Wed Dec 30, 2009 11:47 pm

So I sold my CRD 3 years ago. I should have kept it...but oh well. I was a big contributor to this forum with the CRD was a brand new animal on the streets...but now I have a lot of catching up to do and you guys will have to bear with me.

So anyway, today I picked up another! I'm going to REALLY miss that 6' bed on the back of my pickup....but the 32 MPG that I was getting on the way home in the CRD today helps stop the bleeding. When money allows, I'll pick up a 5'x8' utility trailer to use when I need to haul things.

Anyway, this one is white in color and it's a Limited model. 75,000 miles on it....one owner lease return....all options and in very nice condition. Only problem is carfax reported an accident at 256 miles on odomter (before it was even registered the first time) in which the Jeep struck a curb with the left rear. I guess a salesman must have wrecked it. Carfax refers to it as "moderate damage reported"....but I don't know how you could get moderate damage from hitting a curb unless it damaged the suspension. Anyway....I've noticed a creaking sound coming from the side cargo area window where the accident occured. Visually the Jeep looks perfect....and somebody put 75,000 miles on the Jeep this way...so I guess it's not a problem. But it's just annoying to me. Perhaps whoever put the Jeep back together didn't get something in that area around the window just right.

Anyway.... elephant hose mod is coming as soon as possible. Should I unhook the EGR? Do you just unplug a sensor on the airbox to do this??

VMKJCRD · **Posted:** Thu Dec 31, 2009 12:29 am

Let me start off my congratulating you on your purchase.

First thing i did when i purchased my crd was i changed the oil to shell rotella full synthetic 5w 40il , and oil filter to mobile 1 301 and i also changed the fuel filter because you never know how long those things havent been changed.

This link provides very good info on things that you can do yourself and i would definitely clean the MAP sensor

viewtopic.php?t=22631

best of luck

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Thu Dec 31, 2009 7:02 am

Three big things have happened in the three years you've been gone.

(1) Intank lift pumps cure air in fuel related problems some (me) had :lol:

(2) GDE tune makes it run like it should have, improves the mileage and other benefits :BANANA:

(3) Chrysler has introduced a real torque converter suitable for our thumping tractor engines and GDE has a "hot" tune for that converter too :-)r

Welcome back.

Joe

linewarbr · **Posted:** Thu Dec 31, 2009 12:33 pm

x2 on Joe's contribution. Definitely check out the GDE tune. It's pricey, but those guys know what they're doing.

The only other major thing I can think of is that there is now a Frankenlift for the CRD.

*EDIT* And Samco now makes intercooler hoses for the CRD*

*EDIT AGAIN* Also there is a good mod for the window regulator failures. (not CRD specific, but hey) www.steigerperformance.com I have one in my port rear window now with no trouble. Easy install too.

geordi · **Posted:** Thu Dec 31, 2009 4:56 pm

I think I must be the only one who hasn't had a window problem. Conversely, I couldn't even shatter the window when I locked myself out of the car, when hitting it with a 6' metal rod!

CRD, count me in on the group of people suggesting the GDE tunes. Those guys REALLY know what they are doing with these things.

I'm having a boost controller problem (fairly certain now) and with their tune, I'm STILL turning in 25mpg, at 80mph and on winter fuel! Gotta love it.

Search for posts by Turbo Tim for info on his SEGR design, which electronically neuters the EGR and prevents any idiot lights because of it. You are on the right track with the EHM, but with the same mileage that I have now on my CRD... Look to see (pull the hoses) if the Intercooler-to-engine hose has been eaten away from the inside out. Mine had a split on the INSIDE that was from the oil contamination, and it took until about 2k miles ago before I knew it... It had been leaking boost slowly until the hose finally gave it up. The oily mess on the outside of those hoses (from the turbo to the intercooler too) is an indication of what is happening INSIDE them and weeping through the rubber as it degrades.

Ditto on the fuel filter: $25 at Napa is cheap insurance against not knowing when it was last done. I'd suggest Mobil 1 Delvac (also sold as Diesel Truck) fully-synth oil, but Shell Rotella Synth is ok too. I just can't ever find the stuff in full synth.

Enjoy your new ride! If you are in an area that gets below freezing... Consider plugging it in at night. You might be risking your engine / turbo otherwise. Ask me how I know that.

grywlfbg · **Posted:** Sun Jan 03, 2010 2:28 am

Congrats! As others have said, do the EHM and ORM (unplug the sensor on the airbox). It will cause a CEL but will stop the EGR from opening. I wouldn't bother w/ the SEGR - once you recover from your purchase you should send the computer into GDE. That will kill the EGR (in addition to many excellent benefits) so you can plug the MAF back in.

There's a new Euro-spec TC and transmission pump so if/when that goes those parts solve the tranny problems.

PML has a larger capacity rear diff cover and tranny pan that also include drain plugs! Rear diff cover is a bear if you have the fuel tank skids. You'll also need to do some fiddling w/ the tranny skid plate if you install the PML pan too.

What is this window thing people are talking about?

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Sun Jan 03, 2010 2:15 pm

grywlfbg wrote:

What is this window thing people are talking about?

Plastic parts break and the window falls down. Also mine fronts chattered badly going down when wet. They replaced regulators and glass with updated ones. While doing it they scratched both front doors prying off the rubber seals :cry:

LibertyCRD · **Posted:** Tue Jan 12, 2010 9:17 am

Well I fixed the intercooler hoses with factory replacements...now I'm back on the road!

Annoying rattle coming from passenger seat was the bolts that hold the frame to the chassis. I tightened them and the noise went away.

Fog lights didn't come on...turned out to be a bad fuse in the dash.

I did the EHM and ORM....but I broke the connector to the airbox sensor!! OH NO! I hate it when that happens. Now I'll have to splice in a whole new connector, don't I??

Door speaker on the passenger side is blown...trying to track down an Infinity replacement. But they are $90 or more each!

geordi · **Posted:** Tue Jan 12, 2010 10:43 am

LibertyCRD wrote:

Well I fixed the intercooler hoses with factory replacements...now I'm back on the road!

Annoying rattle coming from passenger seat was the bolts that hold the frame to the chassis. I tightened them and the noise went away.

Fog lights didn't come on...turned out to be a bad fuse in the dash.

I did the EHM and ORM....but I broke the connector to the airbox sensor!! OH NO! I hate it when that happens. Now I'll have to splice in a whole new connector, don't I??

Door speaker on the passenger side is blown...trying to track down an Infinity replacement. But they are $90 or more each!

Don't waste your money on Infinity replacements... They are still just a paper cone speaker. Shocking tho this might sound, just take a look at Wally World for a matching size, and find something with discrete drivers if possible (not just ONE speaker unit per housing) and PLASTIC CONES. Much more durable.

The way to really measure a speaker is matching the power output AND the RMS (call it an average power level) to your radio. Factory radios usually are pretty low on the scale of peak power, but their RMS is very close to the peak. So a speaker that peaks at 500 watts but with an RMS of 5 watts just means that it can take huge bursts of power... But will still sound like quiet crap on most radios. The RMS is the more important number. Usually, the higher the RMS, the heavier (and larger) the magnet. If the magnet is about 70-80% of the diameter of the speaker itself... Ya got a good one that will put up with a LOT of punishment.

You do NOT always have to buy the most expensive one, but in general... Sony or Pioneer will be better options than Pyle (who are they?) IF the numbers match the radio output.
I work in pro audio and have built my own multi-thousand-watt systems, so speaker matching is VERY important... Brand names, not as much.

LibertyCRD · **Posted:** Tue Jan 12, 2010 1:24 pm

I think what I'm going to do is buy aftermarket Infinity speakers. They are only $59 for a PAIR, and they are 2 ohms which supposedly will sound much better with the OEM head unit.

As far as the ORM goes...I guess I'm confused. I have been reading about two sensors on the airbox...but I only saw one sensor on my airbox. Did I unplug the proper one? It was the one of top of the box.

Also, has anybody broken the retaining clip that holds that connector in while taking yours out? What do you do about that if you decide to plug it back in??

geordi · **Posted:** Tue Jan 12, 2010 2:05 pm

typically, automotive radios are designed for 4-ohm speakers. What this means is that it is EASIER for a car radio to push the cone in and out (making sound) on a 2-ohm system. THIS IS NOT ALWAYS A GOOD THING. Impedance = Resistance. This is important to remember.

Impedance Matching can prevent damage to the amplifier circuit in the radio. What happens is that the radio is designed to "expect" a certain amount of resistance, so it is putting out a current level to counter that expected resistance. The ideal situation is that the current (amperage) sums to zero. Exactly the amount sent is needed to move the speaker cone. The changes of voltage across the wires are what we hear as sound. We do not hear the amperage. Turning up the volume knob only increases the overall voltage. In a mis-matched system, the amp is putting out more amperage than the speakers need, at the same time it is varying the voltage to make the sounds. Volts times amps equals watts... BUT in a mismatch, some of that amperage RETURNS to the amplifier, and must be consumed somehow. It causes the amplifier to heat up. Because of the impossible nature of perfectly balancing amperage supply and demand, some small mismatch always happens. The wires add some unknown resistance, etc. The amplifier is designed to absorb this normal amount, but when you reduce the speaker impedance by 50%, the mismatch can often do serious damage to the amplifier.

I have built my own speaker cabinets for pro audio use, and I had to do some pretty wacky wiring to get 3 4-ohm speakers in a cabinet to end up with something close to 8 ohm that my amp wanted. I tried running it at half the resistance of the amp, so 4 ohm speakers on an 8 ohm amp... And yea, the speakers were a lot louder... BUT they also went into distortion VERY easily (at like 40% total volume level) and the amp went into self-protect and shut down twice.

Does your Jeep's radio have a protect circuit? I seriously doubt it.

Like I said before, it is all about matching the specs. When the impedance and RMS are as close as possible, the sound output will be clean all the way to max volume level, AND the max level will be as loud as your amp can produce. The peak speaker rating is a marketing ploy. You don't want to exceed it, but realistically if you double the RMS, that is about all that your amp will ever produce.

I hope this helps you choose a good set of speakers.

linewarbr · **Posted:** Tue Jan 12, 2010 2:37 pm

LibertyCRD wrote:

I think what I'm going to do is buy aftermarket Infinity speakers. They are only $59 for a PAIR, and they are 2 ohms which supposedly will sound much better with the OEM head unit.

As far as the ORM goes...I guess I'm confused. I have been reading about two sensors on the airbox...but I only saw one sensor on my airbox. Did I unplug the proper one? It was the one of top of the box.

Also, has anybody broken the retaining clip that holds that connector in while taking yours out? What do you do about that if you decide to plug it back in??

Look on the front driver's side of the airbox and you will see a small sensor with the Mercedes-Benz logo. It is an intake air temperature sensor, I believe. Be very careful as other owners have reported pulling the wiring out of the sensor accidentally. Consequently, this sensor also tends to rub Samco intercooler hoses.

I wouldn't worry too much about the retaining clip on the MAF at this point. As limited as I am in messing with electrical stuff, I think I could handle installing a new one. Plus, IIRC, the only thing that sensor does is give the computer information to control the EGR flow. You don't want EGR flow, so it should only present itself as an issue if you do an SEGR or get a GDE tune and can plug it back in. Have you tried plugging it back in just to see if it will stay?

danoid · **Posted:** Wed Jan 13, 2010 12:13 pm

LibertyCRD wrote:

I did the EHM and ORM....but I broke the connector to the airbox sensor!! OH NO! I hate it when that happens. Now I'll have to splice in a whole new connector, don't I??

danoid wrote:

68032284AA - INTAKE PRESSURE SENSOR (DIESEL) - 3 WAY - Suggested Retail Price: 22.55 USD

Done that. That's why it's on the service list now.

LibertyCRD wrote:

Door speaker on the passenger side is blown...trying to track down an Infinity replacement. But they are $90 or more each!

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_1086022SI/Infinity-Reference-6022si.html?tp=95

Done that one too. So far everything sounds (disappointingly) rather normal. These vehicles seem to take a lot of care and feeding, but I still think there's nothing like them on the road that can match their mileage + towing + off road combination.

LibertyCRD · **Posted:** Wed Jan 13, 2010 3:30 pm

danoid... yes those are the speakers I want to get. Everybody has told me that if you go with a 2 ohm speaker, it will sound better than a 4 ohm on these factory systems. So yours is just marginal at best?

I checked that part number online, and it came up with something completely different...something about a siren switch or something??? Are you sure that is the correct part number?

Thanks.

danoid · **Posted:** Wed Jan 13, 2010 10:10 pm

2005 KJ : LIBERTY
Mopar Package #
68032284AA

INTAKE PRESSURE SENSOR (DIESEL) - 3 WAY

from the MOPAR connector kit website, select 2005, KJ, then keyword 'diesel'.

http://dto.vftis.com/mopar/platform_select.asp

I haven't ordered one actually, I graduated from duct tape to a zip tie. But I actually did talk to someone in MOPAR to get that particular connector added to the service list.

And the speakers are only just OK when wired to the factory amps in the front doors. Not enough mid bass, probably due to the equalization curve that I haven't yet figured out how to change. I get plenty of low bass due to the subs. But they are a step up from distortion.

BBB · **Posted:** Sun Jan 17, 2010 12:25 pm

If the speaker is working when the volume is low but it buzzes and/ or distorts when the volume is up, you may just need to replace the foam surround around the speaker cone. It deteriorates over time. When it cracks it causes the cone to move off of center and the voice coil rubs against the magnet pole. This condition, if left unchecked, will short out the voice coil and the speaker cone will be toast. As long as the voice coil is still good, replace the foam surround and you'll be sounding clean and fresh again :BANANA:

Those of you with Infinity sound systems will definitely want to consider this procedure as the factory Infinity speakers have an integral power amp and are very costly to replace ($100-150)

Here's an available kit or search for others like it.

http://cgi.ebay.com/BEST-Speaker-Foam-S ... 27ae6c3ff8

I did one on an Infinity front door speaker. It took about two hours total to complete (also letting the glue cure overnight before re-installing it)

Picked up another CRD today!

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