Code reader showing egr and pressure boost sensor codes on CRD Liberty with 52K miles. Dealer confirmed and would replace both for $800. I figured the emissions warranty would cover the repairs. Chrysler says neither is an emissions item and therefore they are not covered under the emissions warranty. Since when is an egr not an emissions item? Anybody else getting this response from dealer/Chrysler?

bu2p

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2005 Sport; 56K miles; mostly stock (except for egr block and SEGR); Black/Grey Int.; Chrome Limited Grill (after Bambi encounter)

The only parts covered under the federal emissions warranty is the Cat(s) and if you bought and live in Cali it also covers the PCM.Nothing else is covered outside your bumper to bumper warranty.

BU2P,

Perfect time to get a GDE tune and replace the boost pressure sensor yourself. It will be less than $800 and you won't have to worry about the EGR in the future.

DOC

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2005 KJ CRD Ltd Detroit TrueTrac Bilsteins G2 GDE "HOT" ECU GDE TCM "Tow Tune" "euro" TC SEGR Weeks Elbow New HG at 130K ARPs Clean CAT aFe Filter Magnaflow Exhaust EHM Cumminos In-Tank Lift Pump Hayden Fan Clutch Nylon Fan VH Enabled with GDE lower shutoff point Recalibrated Temp Gauge Tekonsha Prodigy Sears P-1 ZDDP

x2 And if you still get a CEL for the EGR fault, you can probably purchase a SEGR and still pay less than $800 total

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2006 Jeep Liberty CRD, Limited
GDE Eco Tune, GDE TCM Tune, Bauer 203* Tstat, Amsoil EaA 201 Filter, Clean MAP, Samco CAC Hoses, Magnaflow Muffler #12226.
New Mopar Fuel Filter, K&N Filterminder, Fumoto Oil Drain Valve
225/75R16 Hankook Dynapros

x3 - and you get a better-driving Jeep to boot. You probably can try just cleaning the MAP sensor, here is a link for it: viewtopic.php?f=98&t=22630

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In this war of lines, so many have been crossed. Where will it all stop?

2006 Deep Beryl Green CRD Sport *SOLD 1/22/12*
Provent, V6 Airbox, Fumoto, Samcos, GDE ECO & TCM Tune, Euro JK TC, Magnaflow Catback
245/70/16 Destination A/T's
Boiler's Radiator Skid Plate
Jeepin' By Al 2.5 inch Adjust-A-Strut Lift, JBA Gen 4.5 UCA's (6/5/10)

The valve cost $150 and you can replace it yourself. If I can do it, you can too.

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2006 CRD http://www.UtahPowderCoatings.com/ http://www.gorecon.com/ I'm kind of a big deal.
RL rear bumper, ARB front bumper, Mile Marker winch, Power Tank, Skids by Mopar & Skid Row, RL Super Skink Sliders, 235/85R16 MTR, Air Flow Snorkel, DTT, 4.10 gears, Frankenlift II, Katskin leather, JL Audio stereo, Rosen video.

F4 that noise, pull it off and weld it shut or put a blocking plate across the pipe. Use the SEGR to eliminate the idiot light, and enjoy a soot-free engine.

Do you like eating your own exhaust? Neither does your engine. The GDE is a bonus, it will give you performance and economy that Mopar SHOULD have provided... But didn't.

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Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

I always love the part where the dealer says that the EGR is NOT an emissions part.
Then just a simple reply should do: Great! If it is not an emissions part just take it off!
Should be no problem. I can live with that.

See how they answer that one.

I'd also be interested in how they answer that.

Let us know.

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06 CRD LIMITED- Factory Belly Armor, Hooks.
EHM, MagnaFlow SS Cat Back, FS-2500, HDS 001 TStat, Some Gauges, PML Trans Pan, PML Diff Cover, Marinco Mod, FIA Blanket, Cooper Discoverer ATR 225/75, CTS 245/70, Front-JBA 2.25" C/Os, Rear-OME HD, JBA UCA, SS Brake Lines.

I believe the EPA determins what parts are covered under the emmissions warranty. I'm also sure when they made the rules the automobile industry was there to "help" them. Originally when catalyic converters were required they were very expensiv. That's why they and the ECM were put under the warranty.

As stated earlier CARB has different ideas on what's included

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Atlantic Blue 06 CRD Limited (his)
Joined by a 2000 XJ Classic (hers)

I did ask the MoPar mechanic that question and then I said - If it's not an emissions item, than let's block it off! Of course he said he couldn't do that and that it cannot be done and then expected to run properly. He also said, that the true purpose of the egr on this engine was to assist in proper heating/cooling of the engine. How about that one!

I did clean the MAP sensor and it looked exactly like the photos that others have submitted - totally carboned-up.
CAUTION! Don't push too hard on the fuel return line running by the MAP sensor - you might snap-off the plastic nipple on the return fuel block (ask me how I know). MoPar wants $76.50 for this simple plastic block. I am performing a 'MacGyver' fix with a threaded/barbed hose fitting, instead.

I am going to install the block-off on the egr just as soon as I'm sure where exactly it goes. I've found the verbage explaining where it goes, but for a novice engine-head, some photos would be very helpful here.

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2005 Sport; 56K miles; mostly stock (except for egr block and SEGR); Black/Grey Int.; Chrome Limited Grill (after Bambi encounter)

Just want to send out a big thanks to everyone who contributes on LostJeeps.I cleaned my MAP sensor per several posts. I followed tips regarding 'limp mode' occurrences (happening quite often for me) and found that the problem was air in the fuel line. Bled line and solved problem. I just installed the EGR block, using some exhaust gasket material (NAPA p/n 2499) and noticed a huge improvement in performance. Will monitor MAP sensor and eventually install a SEGR, when I have the funds. For now I'll just live with the CEL and check codes regularly. Thanks again to a loyal and helpful bunch of KJ fans. Never thought that I was getting into such a quirky vehicle, but I do LOVE THAT TORQUE!

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2005 Sport; 56K miles; mostly stock (except for egr block and SEGR); Black/Grey Int.; Chrome Limited Grill (after Bambi encounter)

Before letting the dealer replace your egr valve drive it at max highway speeds to heat it up and blow it out clean. Look in the Jeep's manual with the 3.0 V6 CRD engines. There is a procedure to clear the egr value. This is a common problem with diesel egr engines. I have 100K on my liberty CRD. The dealer changed the egr valve at 28K. I have had the low egr flow code a couple of times since. Every time it goes away after I take an hour or longer highway speed drive. It helps that the turnpike here is 75 MPH. Also use some brake cleaner and gently clean your boost sensor. The dealer will just rape you by replacing everything without telling you what the causes are. I have no modifications on my 05 liberty CRD. It doesn't shudder and never blew the CAC hoses. It really runs good. I will change the time belt myself soon, plus I will be buying the rebuild kit for the turbo. It cost about $150 to rebuild this turbo if it is not damaged. If you can't do it yourself you can get it done for around $400. But you will have to send it out to get it done. I will do all the work myself due to me not trusting any dealer touching my vehicles. Good luck. The EGR valve runs around $250. It take about 2 hours to do it yourself but be carefull not to strip the four small screws attaching the intake tube into the intake manifold flange. That is what I had to repair after the dealer butchered mine when they replaced the egr at 28K.