Best Tires for my CRD?

Silverdiesel · **Posted:** Thu Feb 18, 2010 12:58 am

tjkj2002 wrote:

Silverdiesel wrote:

We drive heavy SUV's even though they look like compact Jeeps.
Some weight facts:
Jeep KJ CRD 4360 lbs
Jeep TJ 3400 lbs
1/2 ton pickup SWB(typ) 5200 lbs~~~~~ Nope 3400
ford expedition 5300 lbs~~~~~~ Nope 4700
SWB,SRA .75t p/u(typ) 4500 lbs ~~~~~~This is a base 3/4t truck
my 06 Jetta TDI 3250 lbs

Vehicles can be deceiving...Would I run load range D's or E's? I think so. KJ CRD is about 3000 lbs less weight than a 3/4 ton truck.~~~~ A base 3/4t weighs 8500 lbs~~Nope
And we STILL get hwy MPGS in the high 20,s/ low 30's!!
Those Heavy Duty tires only promote this incredible mileage...

Roland

Fixed some of the #'s for you to be closer to true(in bold).

Except for the TJ I have owned the above vehicles and weights were on the titles- but I will not feed the troll after this.....

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Thu Feb 18, 2010 1:13 am

Silverdiesel wrote:

tjkj2002 wrote:

Silverdiesel wrote:

We drive heavy SUV's even though they look like compact Jeeps.
Some weight facts:
Jeep KJ CRD 4360 lbs
Jeep TJ 3400 lbs
1/2 ton pickup SWB(typ) 5200 lbs~~~~~ Nope 3400
ford expedition 5300 lbs~~~~~~ Nope 4700
SWB,SRA .75t p/u(typ) 4500 lbs ~~~~~~This is a base 3/4t truck
my 06 Jetta TDI 3250 lbs

Vehicles can be deceiving...Would I run load range D's or E's? I think so. KJ CRD is about 3000 lbs less weight than a 3/4 ton truck.~~~~ A base 3/4t weighs 8500 lbs~~Nope
And we STILL get hwy MPGS in the high 20,s/ low 30's!!
Those Heavy Duty tires only promote this incredible mileage...

Roland

Fixed some of the #'s for you to be closer to true(in bold).

Except for the TJ I have owned the above vehicles and weights were on the titles- but I will not feed the troll after this.....

I'm no troll,get out in the other sections of the board,oh and you need some math skills.

As far as the weights I know what a 3/4 ton Ford SD weights with the 7.3,weighed one about once every few days when moving cattle to/from the salebarn,'01 SD(7.3 PS) with extended cab/long box was just a tad over 7500lbs with a full tank of fuel(auto,4wd,SRW).Most 3/4's and 1tons you see are mostly extended cabs or quad cabs which add alot of weight,most 4 door diesel 3/4-1tons are well over 8000lbs if there 4wd(no point owning a pickup unless it is 4wd),add about 200lbs over that for a dually.I have also personally owned a '84 F150,regular cab long box and that came in at 5200lbs with a 351 and auto trans(4wd),also 1 '74 K2500 which was also a regular cab/long box (350,auto,4wd) and that weighed 5900lbs.

AZ CRD · **Posted:** Thu Feb 18, 2010 8:25 am

LibertyCRD wrote:

You're kidding me, right? Dry braking? :ROTFL:

Show me one stock Jeep that can lock up the brakes on dry pavement with ANY tire. Dry braking doesn't matter. I consider wet braking, hydroplaning, snow traction and offroad traction to be the most important things. And the Grabber AT2 excels at all of those.

Sorry for my tone. It's just that there are a lot more people out there than you realize that obviously have no clue...and I hate to see people asking for help getting responses like I've seen them getting lately. Like I said...if you want to run 1-ton truck tires on a compact Jeep...go for it. But the fact is, it's hardly going to be advantageous to do so.

I wish you nothing but the best with those tires. We are probably arguing at the margins. I think we can all agree that the stock Wrangler ST's were garbage.

LibertyCRD · **Posted:** Thu Feb 18, 2010 10:10 am

“P” doesn’t stand for “car”. “P” stands for “Passenger vehicle”. And that’s exactly what a Jeep is. My “P” rated tires have a load capacity of 2,403 lbs. each. That’s 9,612 lbs. total for the 4 tires. Considering that a CRD weighs 4,300 lbs...that means I’ve got 5,312 lbs. of capacity left. There is NO possible way someone is going to put 5,312 lbs. of weight on a CRD. Therefore, it is impossible that I will ever overload my tires.

The average “E” rated tire of a similar size is going 45-50 lbs. each. The average “P” rated tire of this size is going 35-40 lbs. each. That’s a HUGE difference and you will notice it immediately. Considering that the stock tires on a CRD weigh 28 lbs. each...you are talking about adding approximately 20 lbs. per corner of unsprung mass to your Jeep if you switch to “E” rated tires meant for 1-ton trucks and duallys. That’s an enormous amount of overkill.

There is simply too much mis-information going around these forums. There is a lot of great info. here that helps us all, but there’s a lot of B.S. here that hurts us all too. You have to do a little research on your own sometimes. Heck, if you go to a reputable tire shop around here with a Jeep Liberty and tell them you want 10-ply “E” rated tires put on it...most of them will laugh at you.

Did I mention the 60,000 mile treadlife warranty my “P” rated tires come with?

YES...we can certainly all agree that the stock Goodyear tires are TRASH.

BVCRD · **Posted:** Thu Feb 18, 2010 11:17 am

I took my CRD in to get the alignment checked the other day and they found that the upper ball joint/control arm was fubar'd, as well as the lower ball joint (the one in the recall) on the passenger side. I got 40K miles out of it. We started talking about tires and such and this fool starts in saying the CRD engine adds like 700# to the rig, and that the last tire guy that put the Cooper Discoveror ATR's on was an idiot. He says that the tires that came on it was a 6 ply. I happened to still have one of the original tires left (spare)and showed him his ineptness. He tried to make me think I was driving a tank and sell me lumberjack tires. I went with the Grabbers, not from him but from tirerack, solely because of the off road capabilities and price. I would like to point out, that for whatever the reason, I can't get over 27,000 miles out of a set of Cooper ATR's and I have gone through 2 of them. Just a soft tire IMO, but the local tire fool chooses to ignor ratings and weights and such. Probably used to sell cars before he got demoted.

onthehunt · **Posted:** Thu Feb 18, 2010 1:19 pm

These are my results with three different tires and sizes:

Stock tires-Around 20k on them. Had three flats. Got rid of them with half the tread on them. They rode nice. Not too great offroad.

Cooper ATR P245/75 16- Got 33k out of them. Not real happy with the wear. They were great on everything until below 1/2 tread. They rode nice and I did not see a mileage penalty when switching from the oem tires.

Goodyear Duratrac 215/85/16 E- I have had these for 5k now. I swore I would never own load range E tires again but this is the only load range in this size. The 245/75 tries rubbed at full lock and when bottoming out. This tire size does not rub at all. It is slightly smaller than 245/75. The ride is noticably stiffer. I have 40 psi in them. Acceleration is slower. I have lost at least 1-2 mpg with these as well. So far these tires are decent.

I have owned two vehicles now with load range E tires and you will take a mpg,ride quality and acceleration hit from them.

BVCRD · **Posted:** Thu Feb 18, 2010 1:35 pm

Agreed. An E rating is way overkill for our rigs. A "C" rating should do nicely. I mean, how in the world are you going to get almost 8900# in a CRD?

AZ CRD · **Posted:** Thu Feb 18, 2010 9:05 pm

LibertyCRD wrote:

“P” doesn’t stand for “car”. “P” stands for “Passenger vehicle”. And that’s exactly what a Jeep is. My “P” rated tires have a load capacity of 2,403 lbs. each. That’s 9,612 lbs. total for the 4 tires. Considering that a CRD weighs 4,300 lbs...that means I’ve got 5,312 lbs. of capacity left. There is NO possible way someone is going to put 5,312 lbs. of weight on a CRD. Therefore, it is impossible that I will ever overload my tires.

Hmmm . . . :?:

Here's a thought. Maybe I can strap an entire spare Liberty CRD to my roof rack for emergencies. :idea:

LibertyCRD wrote:

The average “E” rated tire of a similar size is going 45-50 lbs. each. The average “P” rated tire of this size is going 35-40 lbs. each. That’s a HUGE difference and you will notice it immediately. Considering that the stock tires on a CRD weigh 28 lbs. each...you are talking about adding approximately 20 lbs. per corner of unsprung mass to your Jeep if you switch to “E” rated tires meant for 1-ton trucks and duallys. That’s an enormous amount of overkill.

There is simply too much mis-information going around these forums. There is a lot of great info. here that helps us all, but there’s a lot of B.S. here that hurts us all too. You have to do a little research on your own sometimes. Heck, if you go to a reputable tire shop around here with a Jeep Liberty and tell them you want 10-ply “E” rated tires put on it...most of them will laugh at you.

Did I mention the 60,000 mile treadlife warranty my “P” rated tires come with?

YES...we can certainly all agree that the stock Goodyear tires are TRASH.

Wow, you sure are all wound up.

Did I mention that my Michelins weigh 42 lbs and your Generals weigh 40.2 lbs?

My Yoko H/T-S's had a 60K mile tread life warranty as well. They lasted 35-40K. The prorated refund did cover the difference between the Michelin's and lesser tires though. :wink:

Anywho . . . There are lots of opinions and experiences out there which is what makes this forum and others like it fun and useful.

geordi · **Posted:** Fri Feb 19, 2010 12:19 am

I like my E-rated LT tires, b/c what I have is a LT, even though it LOOKS like a compact SUV. The weigh scale sheets prove that my CRD is at 4500 lbs, which is ridiculous for a 4-cyl SUV no matter what.

BUT, I am willing to put it to the test as well. I'm buying a complete set of rims to have as a spare, and they have stock size tires. I'm going to run them for as long as they will last, and I'll be happy to report any mileage difference from my E-rated 215/85s.

BVCRD · **Posted:** Fri Feb 19, 2010 9:32 am

geordi wrote:

I like my E-rated LT tires, b/c what I have is a LT, even though it LOOKS like a compact SUV. The weigh scale sheets prove that my CRD is at 4500 lbs, which is ridiculous for a 4-cyl SUV no matter what.

BUT, I am willing to put it to the test as well. I'm buying a complete set of rims to have as a spare, and they have stock size tires. I'm going to run them for as long as they will last, and I'll be happy to report any mileage difference from my E-rated 215/85s.

I know what you're saying, and I too went up in load index tires to see if they will last longer but the OEM Badyears were well withing specs on the curb weight.

onthehunt · **Posted:** Sun Feb 21, 2010 5:07 am

Correct me if I'm wrong here... 60k treadlife warranty is a warranty that only covers defects in the tire for 60k. That measurement is taken from the tire with a gauge. Not your odometer. They measure your tread depth and tell you how many miles it equals. Nobody guarantee's their tire to last a certain amount of miles. If they do please name the tire and where you bought it. My next set is from them.

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Sun Feb 21, 2010 8:44 am

onthehunt wrote:

Correct me if I'm wrong here... 60k treadlife warranty is a warranty that only covers defects in the tire for 60k. That measurement is taken from the tire with a gauge. Not your odometer. They measure your tread depth and tell you how many miles it equals. Nobody guarantee's their tire to last a certain amount of miles. If they do please name the tire and where you bought it. My next set is from them.

Goodyear,Firestone,Bridgestone,Cooper,Toyo,and all others that have a mileage warranty.They use the tread depth to determine the prorated cost of the new tires against the mileage you got out of them.

BVCRD · **Posted:** Sun Feb 21, 2010 12:42 pm

onthehunt wrote:

Correct me if I'm wrong here... 60k treadlife warranty is a warranty that only covers defects in the tire for 60k. That measurement is taken from the tire with a gauge. Not your odometer. They measure your tread depth and tell you how many miles it equals. Nobody guarantee's their tire to last a certain amount of miles. If they do please name the tire and where you bought it. My next set is from them.

Way wrong. A 60K tire is guaranteed to last 60K on the odometer. If it doesn't, and you can prove you rotated them and kept the vehicle in alignment, then the company will credit you the difference when you replace the tires ....ie new tires will cost you less the second time around.

onthehunt · **Posted:** Mon Mar 01, 2010 3:31 pm

Say I buy a 60,000 mile tire and drive like a maniac and burn the tires up in 15,000 miles. Just because I rotated them and had the vehicle aligned they are going to reimburse me the difference? The reason I asked: I put only 33k on a set of 50k Coopers. I asked about the 50k warranty and was told they measure mileage by tread depth, not odometer. How could a tire manuf. stay in business otherwise? Everyone's tires wear different. Depends on how you drive. Ever wonder why there is no warranty on most LT rated tires? Same tread, same size, different warranty.

BVCRD · **Posted:** Mon Mar 01, 2010 3:37 pm

onthehunt wrote:

Say I buy a 60,000 mile tire and drive like a maniac and burn the tires up in 15,000 miles. Just because I rotated them and had the vehicle aligned they are going to reimburse me the difference? The reason I asked: I put only 33k on a set of 50k Coopers. I asked about the 50k warranty and was told they measure mileage by tread depth, not odometer. How could a tire manuf. stay in business otherwise? Everyone's tires wear different. Depends on how you drive. Ever wonder why there is no warranty on most LT rated tires? Same tread, same size, different warranty.

He is blowing smoke. That is why they write down the mileage each time you get it rotated. The 2 sets of Cooper ATR's that I went through only got 25000 miles until the wear bars showed. They are even wearing and decent traction, but way too soft for my liking. Call Cooper directly and for the record, I now run General Grabber AT2's and have a documentation file started on them.

onthehunt · **Posted:** Mon Mar 01, 2010 3:52 pm

I rotate my tires,not a shop. I just finished reading the goodyear warranty info. Lots of hoops to jump through and they have many outs. Not stock size= no warranty. You also have to put the same underperforming tire back on.(or comparable tire if no longer manufactured. Also up to them which one you get) and pay full price. They then send your tires to an adjuster and they determine how much you get.So you end up getting $10-20 back per tire and still have to buy the same crappy tires. No thanks. I learn the first time. They do warranty tread-life using the odometer. I was wrong. LT tire have a one year warranty.

BVCRD · **Posted:** Mon Mar 01, 2010 4:11 pm

onthehunt wrote:

I rotate my tires,not a shop. I just finished reading the goodyear warranty info. Lots of hoops to jump through and they have many outs. Not stock size= no warranty. You also have to put the same underperforming tire back on.(or comparable tire if no longer manufactured. Also up to them which one you get) and pay full price. They then send your tires to an adjuster and they determine how much you get.So you end up getting $10-20 back per tire and still have to buy the same crappy tires. No thanks. I learn the first time. They do warranty tread-life using the odometer. I was wrong. LT tire have a one year warranty.

I cut my losses with the Coopers. Fool me once, shame on you. Fool me twice shame on me. Not a third time, no way. You can do your own rotations. Just document the date and mileage and tire rotation method. It is a record and is admissable in court.

AZ CRD · **Posted:** Mon Mar 01, 2010 7:12 pm

onthehunt wrote:

I rotate my tires,not a shop. I just finished reading the goodyear warranty info. Lots of hoops to jump through and they have many outs. Not stock size= no warranty. You also have to put the same underperforming tire back on.(or comparable tire if no longer manufactured. Also up to them which one you get) and pay full price. They then send your tires to an adjuster and they determine how much you get.So you end up getting $10-20 back per tire and still have to buy the same crappy tires. No thanks. I learn the first time. They do warranty tread-life using the odometer. I was wrong. LT tire have a one year warranty.

I think you're buying your tires at the wrong place. I bought four Yoko Geolander H/T-S's in 2007 for $113 each at Discount Tire. After 35K miles on the 60K tread life warranty I had 4/32nd tread left. Discount gave me $60 credit per tire on the tread life warranty on the Yoko's when I purchased new Michelin's a few weeks ago. I suppose they could have made me drive them until I got to 2/32nd's, but they didn't.

SLS · **Posted:** Wed Jun 27, 2012 11:11 am

Hoosierdaddy wrote:

Hi Flman,
I run Firestone Destination AT's in the winter and Firestone Destination LE in the summer. the AT is very good on snow and ice but are noisier and ride harder. The LE's are smoother and quieter. Both are wearing well. I put A LOT of miles on the AT's that I had on a previous '97 G. Cherokee. Check out:

http://www.tirerack.com

Lots of good information and customer feedback on tires. I've bought several sets of tires from them....good people.
Dean

Well it's time for new tires. I've never got 60,000 out of my Firestone - Destination LE P235/70R16 while they can still get these they say the new one ( Firestone - Destination LE 2 P235/70R16) is better and they will be able to get a replacement if needed.
I like the tred design on the LE better, as we get snow here.

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Thu Jun 28, 2012 7:35 am

I replace my original Bad Year tires with BFG Long Trail T/A tours and the difference in handling is night and day.
Tire rotation is supposed to be done at every 6200 mile oil change. I even got decent wear out of the bad years doing a 5 wheel rotation every oil change :JEEPIN:

Best Tires for my CRD?

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