steel front diff

Sport · **Posted:** Sat Apr 10, 2010 8:29 am

With this housing I would run a 32x11.5x15 tires which is taller and wider then 265x75 and run a slightly taller lift...Done, I would be one happy camper. But I would not do this until the 30a took a dump, don't see a need to fix what isn't broken. Now just to see everything work...subscribed as they say. :mrgreen:

evil libby · **Joined:** Thu Nov 13, 2008 11:41 am **Posts:** 296

I have busted my D30a and have been working on my SFA for 2 year. I see the new front I like it but it is only good for 33's if you are easy on it you may get 35's but that would be pushing the limit . I see larry has 33's now and they look cool and love the look and With a lilte work you could run them now so Why put the mony in to the front that I would most likely blow with 33's and be back to trying to find a new one to replace it with or buying a new one or parts that is a given I now you play you are going to pay or if you have a jeep it is just empty ever pocket that is how it is . just my :2cents:

and I hop that JBA sales everthing he has .

DoverKJ · **Posted:** Sat Apr 10, 2010 11:00 am

I highly doubt you would blow the d30 with 33's. Maybe if you were doing something incredibly stupid, then ymaybe. I have seen people run 37s on stock d30, be kind to the skinny pedal and not blow the axle.

stumpjumper_09 · **Posted:** Sat Apr 10, 2010 11:03 am

DoverKJ wrote:

I highly doubt you would blow the d30 with 33's. Maybe if you were doing something incredibly stupid, then ymaybe. I have seen people run 37s on stock d30, be kind to the skinny pedal and not blow the axle.

You do realize that your gonna get flammed for this............................

Get um Troy............

InCommando · **Posted:** Sat Apr 10, 2010 11:12 am

It may be possible to make a lp D30 to survive 37'S. Think "Driving Miss Daisy." I would be a lot more comfortable thinking you could get a HP D30 to survive..... There is a very measuarbale durability difference between the two.

tommudd · **Posted:** Sat Apr 10, 2010 11:26 am

DoverKJ wrote:

I highly doubt you would blow the d30 with 33's. Maybe if you were doing something incredibly stupid, then ymaybe. I have seen people run 37s on stock d30, be kind to the skinny pedal and not blow the axle.

Highly doubt :?:

now that's funny
anything can let go and sometimes with out even being on the skinny pedal

frank6772 · **Posted:** Sat Apr 10, 2010 12:49 pm

I for one am not worried about that. I plan on keeping it at 32". An expo rig is what im looking for and the new housing will let me regear and lock with confidence.

tommudd · **Posted:** Sat Apr 10, 2010 1:20 pm

I wheel with confidence with what I have now. :BANANA:

I never even think about the front diff and the "few" that have blown :shock:

I hear from some I off road with " I worry about busting my front diff and afraid to try this or that."
If something is going to break it will, no use to worry about it, go out and have fun! If you worry about it all of the time you're having no fun at all!
May as well stay on the porch with the old dogs! :ROTFL:

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Sat Apr 10, 2010 1:40 pm

Well - tires are part of the equation - but part is also the amount of power you're putting into it.
I think the Aluminum diff is marginal for 235 ft/lbs of torque, really questionable for 295 and for those folks looking at GDE + Turbo - 400ft/lbs is lighting a fuse - it's just a matter of when.

tommudd · **Posted:** Sat Apr 10, 2010 1:43 pm

There is always going to be a weak link in whatever you build. Look at all of the time and money that goes into Monster Trucks or anything that races the Baja , they still break things.
So with this new diff whats the next weak link down the line?
CVs more than likely, so then what?

Its an ongoing battle that we will never end :wink:

yodejt02 · **Posted:** Sat Apr 10, 2010 4:53 pm

Quote:

Its an ongoing battle that we will never end

Kinda like this thread.......... :-)r

tommudd · **Posted:** Sat Apr 10, 2010 5:54 pm

yodejt02 wrote:

Quote:

Its an ongoing battle that we will never end

Kinda like this thread.......... :-)r

I agree

KJWildman · **Posted:** Sat Apr 10, 2010 6:05 pm

tommudd wrote:

There is always going to be a weak link in whatever you build. Look at all of the time and money that goes into Monster Trucks or anything that races the Baja , they still break things.
So with this new diff whats the next weak link down the line?
CVs more than likely, so then what?

Its an ongoing battle that we will never end :wink:

I'm with Tom, Yes Evil Libby I do run 33s now but it wasn't easy. There were major body mods involved. I was a LITTLE concerned about the front diff going to The Badlands, but once I got there all worries went out the door!! :lol:

I ran every trail everyone else did and tried some things others didn't and like was said before, if something breaks I get to upgrade. It's in how you look at it, I GET to upgrade ... not HAVE to upgrade. If you wheel enough, SOMETHING IS GOING TO BREAK. There will always be a weak link, even on those $100k monsters and the $80k Rock Buggies ( Their parts just cost more

)

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Sat Apr 10, 2010 8:20 pm

tommudd wrote:

There is always going to be a weak link in whatever you build. Look at all of the time and money that goes into Monster Trucks or anything that races the Baja , they still break things.
So with this new diff whats the next weak link down the line?
CVs more than likely, so then what?

Its an ongoing battle that we will never end :wink:

Yup,seen a guy blow apart a D80 with stock tires(235/75's) and I mean blow apart,he carried in the rear driveshaft with the D80's pinion and yoke(and most of the center section) still attached and the truck was still on the tow truck.Seen Eaton 20ton axles blown to pieces.If it can break it will.

The steel LP D30 should be no issue if you keep to 32" tires or light 33" tires.Just remember the LP diff is sending the torque to the weak side of the ring gear,and that D30's ring gear is only 7.2".A HP30 is comparable to a LP44 as far as strength.

2mopar_diesels · **Posted:** Sun Apr 11, 2010 2:45 pm

KJWildman wrote:

tommudd wrote:

There is always going to be a weak link in whatever you build. Look at all of the time and money that goes into Monster Trucks or anything that races the Baja , they still break things.
So with this new diff whats the next weak link down the line?
CVs more than likely, so then what?

Its an ongoing battle that we will never end :wink:

I'm with Tom, Yes Evil Libby I do run 33s now but it wasn't easy. There were major body mods involved. I was a LITTLE concerned about the front diff going to The Badlands, but once I got there all worries went out the door!! :lol:

I ran every trail everyone else did and tried some things others didn't and like was said before, if something breaks I get to upgrade. It's in how you look at it, I GET to upgrade ... not HAVE to upgrade. If you wheel enough, SOMETHING IS GOING TO BREAK. There will always be a weak link, even on those $100k monsters and the $80k Rock Buggies ( Their parts just cost more

)

This is absolutely true, and I will restate my previous statement: I have no problem if the next week link is found to be the cv's!!! Whats it cost? $70-$80 (less if using junkyard parts) and at most,an hours worth of time? Fixed and back out on the trails again!!!! Bust a diff, and your looking at a tow bill, your trip is crapped out and then you have to worry about finding and fixing the front end. Also, At least you can do this as a trail side repair, cause only Tom would actually be wheeling with a full spare diff housing in the cargo area ready to bolt in and could have it swapped out in about 3minutes if he broke one........LOL!!!!!! The rest of us are not as skilled or don't have a garage full of spare axle housings laying around.

There is a reason Warn sells "fusible link" hubs and drive spindles........the internal parts of those 10K axles are alot more expensive to repair if broken than a simple $70 hub or $100 spindle.

evil libby · **Joined:** Thu Nov 13, 2008 11:41 am **Posts:** 296

I am just going to do the sfa less to go wrong on the trail and less part to put in the back and can go with the big boys over the rocks :2cents:

Dje Ryu · **Posted:** Wed Apr 14, 2010 8:50 pm

2mopar_diesels wrote:

KJWildman wrote:

tommudd wrote:

There is always going to be a weak link in whatever you build. Look at all of the time and money that goes into Monster Trucks or anything that races the Baja , they still break things.
So with this new diff whats the next weak link down the line?
CVs more than likely, so then what?

Its an ongoing battle that we will never end :wink:

I'm with Tom, Yes Evil Libby I do run 33s now but it wasn't easy. There were major body mods involved. I was a LITTLE concerned about the front diff going to The Badlands, but once I got there all worries went out the door!! :lol:

I ran every trail everyone else did and tried some things others didn't and like was said before, if something breaks I get to upgrade. It's in how you look at it, I GET to upgrade ... not HAVE to upgrade. If you wheel enough, SOMETHING IS GOING TO BREAK. There will always be a weak link, even on those $100k monsters and the $80k Rock Buggies ( Their parts just cost more

)

This is absolutely true, and I will restate my previous statement: I have no problem if the next week link is found to be the cv's!!! Whats it cost? $70-$80 (less if using junkyard parts) and at most,an hours worth of time? Fixed and back out on the trails again!!!! Bust a diff, and your looking at a tow bill, your trip is crapped out and then you have to worry about finding and fixing the front end. Also, At least you can do this as a trail side repair, cause only Tom would actually be wheeling with a full spare diff housing in the cargo area ready to bolt in and could have it swapped out in about 3minutes if he broke one........LOL!!!!!! The rest of us are not as skilled or don't have a garage full of spare axle housings laying around.

There is a reason Warn sells "fusible link" hubs and drive spindles........the internal parts of those 10K axles are alot more expensive to repair if broken than a simple $70 hub or $100 spindle.

Actually, you can pull the CV shafts in about an hour. There's a write-up on this site, in the tech section I believe, that explains how to do it. You'll need to carry a 36mm axle nut socket and at least a breaker bar for it (along with the usual tools, of course). But if I can do it, anyone can. And yes, I HAVE blown up my front diff. Been daily driving a 2wd KJ for over 2 years, now. I guess all I'm saying is, there's no reason for a tow bill. Just learn about your vehicle before you break it and you'll usually know how to get it home.

I don't really want to run anything bigger than 32" so this seems like a perfect solution for me. I have a J10 truggy with 6" of lift that'll fit 40s for playing on the hard trails. I just want the KJ to be a dependable street rig for snow and fishing/camping trips. :::patiently waiting for reviews:::

2mopar_diesels · **Posted:** Thu Apr 15, 2010 5:40 pm

Yeh, your right. I forgot that you can separate the cv's leaving the outers bolted to the uni-bearing and drive in 2wd. But your weekend and/or vacation would still be wasted especially if its the 1st day of a multi day adventure miles from home. Then you are still stuck with a 2wd until you can find the parts and get it fixed. So I'm with you on this.

2mopar_diesels · **Posted:** Thu Apr 15, 2010 11:11 pm

Well, 4wheel parts in Memphis got my new JBA custom steel front diff today!!!!! Will see if someone there can take some pics of it. I won't be home and able to take it in until the 24th. Will have mote info for everyone then.

frank6772 · **Posted:** Thu Apr 15, 2010 11:19 pm

2mopar_diesels wrote:

Yeh, your right. I forgot that you can separate the cv's leaving the outers bolted to the uni-bearing and drive in 2wd. But your weekend and/or vacation would still be wasted especially if its the 1st day of a multi day adventure miles from home. Then you are still stuck with a 2wd until you can find the parts and get it fixed. So I'm with you on this.

Still beats replacing a diff anyday!

steel front diff

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