So from what i have read, I CAN NOT just unplug the vac lines on the FCV. IT will throw a code and could cause the engine to run poor(shake). Is this correct? Also I read on another forum I could make a shim to block off the actual FCV/EGR thing......Can someone please post a link that will show a pic of the FCV. Is it the little black thing with 2 vac lines than run off it....like a diaphragm looking think.

Also from what i have read, a GDE tune will turn it off.....But will this fix the problem?

I would like to know everything about this FCV and the EGR stuff on this engine so i can get some clean air run'n through this engine.

Thanks guys

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06 Cummins 2wd- industrial injection sliver bullet 66,pdi manifold,smarty(tnt tune),Dr. Performance predator w/ race tune,Fass 150/200,Goerend full billet trans,Pusher intake manifold,snow meth,boost fooler,cal tracs, Stage 2 AFE, about 9 isspros, II dual feed lines, wicked injection pump, mag hytec's, studs,spings and cam.

2005 CRD

Also im going to add that i read the Newb facts and mods and i know what the EGR looks like. Is it true that this cant be modified to not work? How long will it take to remove and inpect it? Is it worth it to take it off and clean it and scrape all the carbon build up out?

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06 Cummins 2wd- industrial injection sliver bullet 66,pdi manifold,smarty(tnt tune),Dr. Performance predator w/ race tune,Fass 150/200,Goerend full billet trans,Pusher intake manifold,snow meth,boost fooler,cal tracs, Stage 2 AFE, about 9 isspros, II dual feed lines, wicked injection pump, mag hytec's, studs,spings and cam.

2005 CRD

The EGR valve and the throttle valve are both electronic, so there's no vacuum lines to disconnect. The VGT actuator is the only pneumatic one.

If the ECU is stock (no ORM/tune/etc.), then putting a shim under the EGR valve will give you a fault since the mass air flow deviation from the setpoint will be too big, and the ECU will think the EGR valve is stuck. From this you'll get a CEL and limp-home.

Unplugging the electronics isn't going to gain you much, the best approach is a method that will disable them from the ECU point of view so that it actuates them correctly to keep them unused. The throttle working during shut down is important, the vehicle feels extremely bad when it's not working.

So in short have the ECU re worked by say........GDE ?

Anything elts i can do to help the engine breath?

I have done, so far...........

3'' straight pipe(no cat or muffler)
elephant hose mod
modified air box with filter and custom Outerwears slip on cover.

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06 Cummins 2wd- industrial injection sliver bullet 66,pdi manifold,smarty(tnt tune),Dr. Performance predator w/ race tune,Fass 150/200,Goerend full billet trans,Pusher intake manifold,snow meth,boost fooler,cal tracs, Stage 2 AFE, about 9 isspros, II dual feed lines, wicked injection pump, mag hytec's, studs,spings and cam.

2005 CRD

Your best free option to almost totally disable EGR is to unplug the MAF sensor from the tube on top of the airbox. It's only used to calculate EGR flow and without it, it defaults to near zero. After a few drive cycles you will get a CEL with P0102 on until you plug it back in and drive some more. That's called the off road mod (ORM).

The FCV looks like a throttle body in the intake just before the cylinder head. It's used to control EGR flow by choking the intake, and to smooth engine shake at shutdown, by closing completely. Some people take it out and remove the throttle blade. I assume you get a CEL eventually.

The best best way to get around all that BS is GDE. I will be switching my jeep from Inmotion to GDE one day soon, just because of that added feature. I hate having the CEL on all the time.

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05CRD: GDE Hot ECU & TCM tunes, Provent, Cat filter, Facet lift pump, TransGo kit, Florida TC, Samcos, stainless brake lines, HDS thermostat, Renegade light bar,
RL super sliders, Bilstein adjustables, Al's Gen 4.5 Arms, 235/85-16 Duratracs, DTT rear, Elocker front, EVIC+TPMS, Turbo timer, McNally pillar gauges, Weeks Stage II kit.

I have both the SEGR device and a tune from GDE, so take my lack of MIL for what it is worth... However - If you remove the FCV from your engine and simply unscrew and extract the center disc from it, the computer will *THINK* it still is working when you put the device back in. The downside is the potential for a rougher-feeling shutdown... But I (and at least one other member here) have been running without the FCV functional for a while, and haven't noticed anything major.

I have almost 84k on my CRD now, the shutdowns aren't any worse than in any other vehicle that I have been in... And over 150k on my VW Jetta TDI without one of those shutdown-throttle-plates didn't cause any hassles on that one either. The engine mounts are just fine.

YMMV.

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