Yes the o-ring is sealed by applying pressure down on water outlet portion while the outside of the assembly was roll-crimped. This is exactly why it was very hard to find a compatible water outlet housing. It had to have the bolt holes at the right spots to allow the water outlet to point the right direction (due to the only place able to drill/tap is those 2 thick tabs), have a large enough place for the thermostat and be the close to the same diameter for the radiator hose.

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Previous-05 CRD KJ;Current-2010 Taurus SHO Twin Turbo (450HP), 2014 Subaru Forester Turbo (stock)

Just an update, been busy with life - My wife and I had our 1 year wedding anniversary yesterday! Back on topic...I ordered the aluminum stock and will work on the adapter piece when it comes in.

- Mark

_________________
Previous-05 CRD KJ;Current-2010 Taurus SHO Twin Turbo (450HP), 2014 Subaru Forester Turbo (stock)

Congrats!

_________________
2006 Jeep Liberty CRD, Limited
GDE Eco Tune, GDE TCM Tune, Bauer 203* Tstat, Amsoil EaA 201 Filter, Clean MAP, Samco CAC Hoses, Magnaflow Muffler #12226.
New Mopar Fuel Filter, K&N Filterminder, Fumoto Oil Drain Valve
225/75R16 Hankook Dynapros

Thanks!

**Project Update**

Aluminum just came in, but I have to go to work in about 10 min. Not sure I will have time to machine anything before my road trip (6th through 18th). I'll keep you posted when the lower seal insert pieces are machined.

- Mark

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Previous-05 CRD KJ;Current-2010 Taurus SHO Twin Turbo (450HP), 2014 Subaru Forester Turbo (stock)

Thanks for the update... Slacker.

Seriously, you are rocking this for us, and I, for one can wait a bit longer to have a kickin product. The offer of my scanner tool still stands, should you need it.

On another note, is there some sort of spanner that holds the fan pulley so you can get that stupid clutch off? Mine is totally locked on. (It IS standard direction threads, correct?)

edit: Ok, I just found the info in the service manual, there is a spanner. Hopefully I have it in one of those cases of special tools....

_________________
Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

I'm starting to become more interested in this. Just got quoted $125 for a OEM t-stat from the dealership.

_________________

2005 Stone White KJ Limited CRD 4x4
Off-Road Pkg
Trac-Lok
Emu 790s/948s
Skyjacker H7088s rear/Bilsteins front
15x7 Black Rock Lobos/31x10.50 Firestones
GDE HOT Tune + TCM Tune
Euro TC
CB radio
Thrush Turbo muffler
AEM DryFlow filter

@Geordi,

I had the same issue when trying to pull it off. It is standard thread but in order to lock it into place, I used a 15mm wrench, with the open end stuck in one of the pulley holes behinf the fan, and the other end attached to the engine hook on top, with a bolt & nut...

Hope this help, if not already resolved!

_________________
RIP 10/31/2012
Green Metallic 2006 CRD Limited
GDE Hot tune ~ Pre-F37 TCM ~ Transgo shift kit ~ MagnaFlow ~ Homemade Provent ~ OME 2" lift & Airlift ~ Samco ~ Euro TC ~ Lift pump ~ Nylon fan blade & Hayden clutch ~ Etc!

Hey everyone, I just got back in town from our road trip. 15 hour drive strraight...whew, I'm worn out. We took our new AWD Dodge Charger R/T (HEMI with MDS). Fully loaded down with suticases, our dog and kennel in the back seat, and with AC on nearly the whole way we averged 22 down and 23mpg back. Not too bad, but next time I will take my jeep. lol

YW on the work in progress on the Thermostat. I hope to make this much better than factory.

Yes, at moparonlineparts.com I got a new OEM unit for about $100.00 shipped to my house. I'm trying to keep the cost of the modified unit around that for a comparable alternative.

On the fan clutch thing...I tried prying over and over, and then, using GDE's instructions, I put an adjustable crescent wrench on the bolt and hit it with the small hammer. It practically unscrewed itself. This is what I would recommend.

Haven't had time to machine the lower seal insert piece yet...hopefully will get to it soon.

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Previous-05 CRD KJ;Current-2010 Taurus SHO Twin Turbo (450HP), 2014 Subaru Forester Turbo (stock)

So, lets see if I understand this thermostat thingy.

When the stock thermostat fails, it fails in the open position?
And the only side effect is lower operating temps and reduced fuel mileage?

The reason I ask is because I really dont want to take the cam spockets off just to fix the
thermostat. Even when it comes time to replace the t-belt. I'd rather leave the cam sprokets
alone and not have to worry about getting them re-installed properly.

I think that while living in Florida I can live with lower operating temps and the slightly lower
fuel mileage through those few cold months that we have here.

Am I wrong to feel this way?

Dave

_________________
U.S. Army Retired

Given personal experience, I can say that the busted tstat is costing you an extra $4-5 in fuel at every fill up. That's enough motivation right there for me to want to get the thing fixed.... Besides the fact that when you are operating below the optimum operating temperature, your Jeep will feel more sluggish and less responsive when you give it some pedal. I like to have everything working as it should....

_________________
2006 Jeep Liberty CRD, Limited
GDE Eco Tune, GDE TCM Tune, Bauer 203* Tstat, Amsoil EaA 201 Filter, Clean MAP, Samco CAC Hoses, Magnaflow Muffler #12226.
New Mopar Fuel Filter, K&N Filterminder, Fumoto Oil Drain Valve
225/75R16 Hankook Dynapros

I can't be positive about the third case bolt on the thermostat housing due to my earlier post in this same thread:


But I didn't remove the cam sprockets to get at the first two bolts.

With all due respect to Mr. K and all the research and work he has done...

Why not install one of these in-line with the radiator hose?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MEZ-WN0072/

_________________
U.S. Army Retired

Pugeou (sp?) used those inline t-stats on their engines. Maybe they still do. It is certainly worth looking into.

Anybody here tried one of these?

_________________

2005 Stone White KJ Limited CRD 4x4
Off-Road Pkg
Trac-Lok
Emu 790s/948s
Skyjacker H7088s rear/Bilsteins front
15x7 Black Rock Lobos/31x10.50 Firestones
GDE HOT Tune + TCM Tune
Euro TC
CB radio
Thrush Turbo muffler
AEM DryFlow filter

Heeey!

I found my user name after forgetting it and locking myself out of this forum for a long time. I have a homemade inline 195* t-stat installed and have been running it for a few months now without any problems.

Dave

_________________
Life's short - Play hard

Not a bad suggestion, but here is a counter-point to it: The existing thermostat isn't just an "it only opens the passage when hot" type. It has a secondary function that CLOSES the recycle loop when it is hot enough. This is an interesting design that adds more complexity than the typical cooling system has. Why they did that... I don't know. There must be a decent reason for it.

I'm still with Kap's design for us, and I'm certainly willing to give driving without a fan a try... Just as soon as I get my car back from my sister. (Her hybrid needs a cooling pump for the electronics, ironically)

_________________
Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

You are right about the bypass feauture of the OEM and that was a concern for me. The posibility of overpressure only exists between 176* (or whatever stock temp is) and 195*. I don't notice anything abnormal during that range however. I think the centrifugal pump is not bothered by it. Time will tell.

The new design is superior for sure, but I ony have $32 invested and can change it back in a snap if need be.

I will be interested to see what others experiance as far as mpg gain with a 195* t-stat.

_________________
Life's short - Play hard

By "new design", I mean Kap's design is superior.

Dave

_________________
Life's short - Play hard

Geordi,

When you said "there must be a decent reason for it", referring to the oem bypass unit; it got me to think'in. I wonder if the system is designed for the organic coolant our Jeeps run? Is it more prone to cavitation? Hmmm, I don't like to gamble. Maybe I'll remove it and see if or how much mileage drops. If it is significant enough, I'll add my name to Kap's list.

But what is this removing the cam sprocket about? I don't like the sound of that.

Dave

_________________
Life's short - Play hard

Organic coolant? I wasn't aware we had anything substantially different than anyone else for antifreeze.

As for pulling the cam gears - No you don't have to. The bolts are on the side of the TS, passenger side. Don't forget there is a third one buried down by the 7 o'clock position (as you are looking across the engine from passenger-driver side) that Squeeto snapped off.

With the bypass... Here is my thought on that: I am familiar with the GM and Ford designs for their larger engines. Both have a small bypass that is always available, approximately half the size of the main coolant lines. The water moves around the TS and follows its normal path (as if the TS was open) but at a reduced rate, until the water carries enough heat to open the TS. At the same time, the coolant lines have a second "loop" from the pump outlet that directs into the in-cabin heater core. The water path then is as follows:
Engine>>>Pump>>> (Split) Heater core OR TS>>> TS / Bypass >>> Radiator >>> engine (start again)

Our system is a bit different. Instead of having a small flow bypassing the TS (which on the Ford and GM acts as a kind of safety, you still get SOME cooling if it fails closed) we have a direct recirculating system with no flow to the radiator.
With the TS closed, our system is like this:
Engine>>>Pump>>> TS chamber (splits to viscous heater and heater core) >>> ENGINE. Directly re-circulating 100% of the coolant. By having the viscous heater in the path, that applies almost instant heat to the cabin loop, which makes for happy girlfriends. But the radiator gets zilch until that thing opens.

Where I see a problem (that Kapy is trying to resolve) is by having an in-line TS instead of the either/or design we have currently. Without that secondary function to close off the recirculating chamber, this is the path:
Engine>>> Pump>>> TS Chamber (Splits at an unknown ratio)
Path 1: 100% possible flow directly back to engine. Zero cooling possible. <<<BAD THINGS>>>
Path 2: 100% possible flow to radiator. Cooling possible, but at reduced rate due to reduced flow by splitting pump output.

See where I'm going? In electricity as in plumbing, the path of least resistance is where your flow is going to prefer to go. By even OFFERING a path back to the engine without visiting the radiator... I see the possibility of massively reduced flow and cooling from the radiator.

Kap is correct on his design when you think it out logically. I believe only our CRD's massively oversized cooling capacity (when the engine is not working to 100% by towing super-heavy) prevents those who have extracted the TS entirely or the cooling fans from having problems. I'm willing to try pulling my own fan for a while, but only if I know that the TS itself is still making a direct choice on the flow - Either it recirculates, or it doesn't.

_________________
Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

Ok, sorry for that confusion. I guess its the water pump that requires removal of cam sprockets.

So, how does Mr. K's design compensate for bypass flow?
His design seems to only create a fixture for which a traditional t-stat can be installed in a stock t-stat housing.
IOW, a traditional t-stat cannot block one path (bypass) while opening another.

So the real question is, what is the diameter of the bypass flow orifice?
Like you said, path of least resistance.

Yes, I know, this is all a work in progress. I'm just wondering if this whole coolant flow path diversion
is really a concern. Maybe we are thinking too deeply?

_________________
U.S. Army Retired