Well, I cleaned the sensor, reinstalled and still have the ABS/Brake lights. I disassembled the connector at the sensor and checked it out. All wire-to-contact connections are great. Reassembled the connector, cable tied it to the sensor, and still have the ABS/Brake lights. I'm now fairly certain that the sensor is bad, again. I guess the next step is to open-up the differential, clean it, refill it, and install a new sensor. This is driving me crazy.

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2005 Sport; 56K miles; mostly stock (except for egr block and SEGR); Black/Grey Int.; Chrome Limited Grill (after Bambi encounter)

You don't need to open up the diff to change the sensor, It bolts on from the outside.

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2005 CRD "Ol' Blue"
Red Ryder carbine-action, two hundred shot range model air rifle with a compass in the stock and this thing which tells time.
My build page- RL Komodo Rear and TJM Front Bumper, armored, lifted, JBA Steel D30, 4.10s and ARB air lockers.

What I was saying, there must be a problem with the differential - causing the sensor to go bad. I figure, checking it internally, I might be able to figure out why they are failing. I believe someone gave a tip on checking the sensor for continuity to determine if it is or isn't bad. I can't find the tip. Can anyone help?

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2005 Sport; 56K miles; mostly stock (except for egr block and SEGR); Black/Grey Int.; Chrome Limited Grill (after Bambi encounter)

Ohm the sensor out. Don't know what the specs are(maybe in the FSM) but if it was open you would know.

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2005 sport crd-SOLD No regrets

With an ohm-meter, I get a reading of 'infinity'. Sounds like an open to me, unless the reading should be 'high Mega-ohms'.

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2005 Sport; 56K miles; mostly stock (except for egr block and SEGR); Black/Grey Int.; Chrome Limited Grill (after Bambi encounter)

Well, I replaced the speed sensor, again (rear differential). The ABS/Brake lights immediately went away. This time, I made some resistance checks on the old and new sensor units. With the ohm-meter connected to the sensor, polarity correct, the OLD sensor reads open. With the ohm-meter connected to the sensor, polarity incorrect, the OLD sensor reads 13 M-ohms to start and gradually builds up to 30.68 M-ohms (after about 10-minutes). This indicates to me, a capacitor charging-up.

With the ohm-meter connected to the sensor, polarity correct, the NEW sensor reads open (infinity). With the ohm-meter connected, polarity incorrect, the NEW sensor reads 2.2 M-ohms.

The connector on the wiring harness is now secured with a cable tie. I'm wondering if, through vibration, the past sensors went bad because of a poor connection, possibly causing a surge or arc and blowing the sensor. (I'm struggling to find a reason for 4-failures in 2-1/2 years.

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2005 Sport; 56K miles; mostly stock (except for egr block and SEGR); Black/Grey Int.; Chrome Limited Grill (after Bambi encounter)