EGR help please

kevinl · **Joined:** Mon Sep 13, 2010 8:25 pm **Posts:** 35

Hello,

I am brand new to the forum. I have a 2006 Crd with 88,500 miles and just got the P0401 error code. I was just quoted $1500 from the dealer to repair it .I would greatly appreciate if someone could point me in the right direction on how to access, remove and clean the EGR and how long it should take.

flman · **Posted:** Mon Sep 13, 2010 9:18 pm

kevinl wrote:

Hello,

I am brand new to the forum. I have a 2006 Crd with 88,500 miles and just got the P0401 error code. I was just quoted $1500 from the dealer to repair it .I would greatly appreciate if someone could point me in the right direction on how to access, remove and clean the EGR and how long it should take.

Maybe you should just get the GDE tune for about $500?

http://www.greendieselengineering.com/g ... ethod=home

linewarbr · **Posted:** Mon Sep 13, 2010 9:23 pm

Disconnect the Mass Airflow Sensor (red tab sensor on top of the airbox) and don't worry about the EGR. Here is a link that explains it: viewtopic.php?f=98&t=22631

JL Rockies · **Posted:** Mon Sep 13, 2010 9:38 pm

If it's broken, the advice given it too late most likely. You can buy a new one for $150, schedule a full day and make sure you got a bucket to drain the coolant first. I believe there's a write up in the tech section. If I remember my removal correctly, you have to remove:

Batt
batt tray
CAC hose
Fuel filter head thingy
FCV
coolant hoses on the valve
plastic engine cover

The valve is on the DS of the engine held on with 4 bolts (8mm) I think. You have to do the job by feel and if you strip a bolt you need a nice insurance fire.

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Mon Sep 13, 2010 9:39 pm

flman wrote:

Maybe you should just get the GDE tune for about $500?

http://www.greendieselengineering.com/g ... ethod=home

GDE Tune won't work if the EGR valve is stuck, gummed up, or has failed. Even though I am not one of their customers, I have to admit they are not That Stupid and would make no claim to fix a defective EGR with their tune.
GDE Tune shuts off the CEL and reduces EGR but does not eliminate it, again read their posts for their verbiage and disclaimers.
If you want to totally cure the problem go with the SEGR and a plate after you fix, free up, or replace the EGR.

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Mon Sep 13, 2010 9:42 pm

flman wrote:

Maybe you should just get the GDE tune for about $500?

http://www.greendieselengineering.com/g ... ethod=home

GDE Tune won't work if the EGR valve is stuck, gummed up, or has failed. Even though I am not one of their customers, I have to admit they are not That Stupid and would make no claim to fix a defective EGR with their tune.
GDE Tune shuts off the CEL and reduces EGR but does not eliminate it, again read their posts for their verbiage and disclaimers.
If you want to totally cure the problem go with the SEGR and a plate after you fix, plate off, free up, or replace the EGR.

dkenny · **Posted:** Mon Sep 13, 2010 11:23 pm

when I cleaned my wife's EGR..both times..
I didn't remove the battery, its tray or the FCV.. doing so might have made it easier? maybe next time I'll find out.

coolant hose. just plan on replacing. with your mileage you need to cut to remove them. I did the first time I replace cleaned my wife's EGR..I just went the autozone and got the right size coolant hose (3/8")..forget the factory spec(expensive). also grease the fitting before you install the new hose..next time it might come off.

I found the hardest part was getting the 4 nuts/bolts that hold the EGR in..a major pain...

-dkenny

flman · **Posted:** Tue Sep 14, 2010 6:22 am

warp2diesel wrote:

flman wrote:

Maybe you should just get the GDE tune for about $500?

http://www.greendieselengineering.com/g ... ethod=home

GDE Tune won't work if the EGR valve is stuck, gummed up, or has failed. Even though I am not one of their customers, I have to admit they are not That Stupid and would make no claim to fix a defective EGR with their tune.
GDE Tune shuts off the CEL and reduces EGR but does not eliminate it, again read their posts for their verbiage and disclaimers.
If you want to totally cure the problem go with the SEGR and a plate after you fix, free up, or replace the EGR.

He did not indicate having and driveability issues, that is why I recommended the GDE tune. I know it will not fix a stuck open EGR valve.

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Tue Sep 14, 2010 8:06 am

flman wrote:

warp2diesel wrote:

flman wrote:

Maybe you should just get the GDE tune for about $500?

http://www.greendieselengineering.com/g ... ethod=home

GDE Tune won't work if the EGR valve is stuck, gummed up, or has failed. Even though I am not one of their customers, I have to admit they are not That Stupid and would make no claim to fix a defective EGR with their tune.
GDE Tune shuts off the CEL and reduces EGR but does not eliminate it, again read their posts for their verbiage and disclaimers.
If you want to totally cure the problem go with the SEGR and a plate after you fix, free up, or replace the EGR.

He did not indicate having and driveability issues, that is why I recommended the GDE tune. I know it will not fix a stuck open EGR valve.

Malfunction creates the code.
Going for a tune to fix the problem is kinda like giving a hemophiliac lots of aspirin.
Fix first tune later, Dahhhha

europachris · **Posted:** Tue Sep 14, 2010 12:50 pm

I've installed two of them little sensored word before I finally installed my SEGR mod.

Couple of tips:

1) no need to drain the coolant - get a few pairs of small vice grips or "hose pinch pliers" - designed for clamping off hoses. I was able to get the OEM hoses off with a bit of twisting and wiggling to break them loose.
2) get a 1/4" drive ratchet, a few extensions, and a 1/4" universal joint. Also get a GOOD 8mm combination wrench. That will make the work of getting the bolts out/in easier.
3) take care when installing the new valve to get the gasket properly seated - it likes to slide around and won't line up with the bolts.
4) removing the fuel filter is mandatory - don't loose the copper washers or get dirt in the lines.
5) removing the FCV from the intake isn't necessary but it helps. IMHO, it's more of a pain to remove it than to work around it.
6) don't OVERTORQUE the 8mm screws or the bolts on the flange that attaches the exhaust tube to the valve.

It's really not a bad job to do - once. But when the EGR valve barely lasts more than a couple of oil changes, SEGR (or a GDE tune) becomes your best friend.

flman · **Posted:** Tue Sep 14, 2010 12:56 pm

warp2diesel wrote:

Malfunction creates the code.
Going for a tune to fix the problem is kinda like giving a hemophiliac lots of aspirin.
Fix first tune later, Dahhhha

So the code he has indicates a stuck EGR, not one that will not open?

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Tue Sep 14, 2010 1:07 pm

flman wrote:

warp2diesel wrote:

Malfunction creates the code.
Going for a tune to fix the problem is kinda like giving a hemophiliac lots of aspirin.
Fix first tune later, Dahhhha

So the code he has indicates a stuck EGR, not one that will not open?

Sorry if I have a cynical attitude toward codes, all they indicate is a problem that needs to be checked by other means as well. Other means include, visual inspection, checking with a VOM, making sure the plug is not knocked loose, on and on.
Codes are smoke signals to steer you in the right direction to find a fire, not a Divine Message Spoon Feeding you the answer.
Lets skip the Ca Ca El Pollo, he needs to get to work and fix the problem, the code is only a hint.

JL Rockies · **Posted:** Tue Sep 14, 2010 3:24 pm

If you're not going to drain the coolant... can't see why not but I digress... make sure the coolant isn't hot and that you're quick with the clamps.

flman · **Posted:** Tue Sep 14, 2010 4:46 pm

warp2diesel wrote:

Sorry if I have a cynical attitude toward codes, all they indicate is a problem that needs to be checked by other means as well. Other means include, visual inspection, checking with a VOM, making sure the plug is not knocked loose, on and on.
Codes are smoke signals to steer you in the right direction to find a fire, not a Divine Message Spoon Feeding you the answer.
Lets skip the Ca Ca El Pollo, he needs to get to work and fix the problem, the code is only a hint.

But Warp, he did not say it was running bad yet, maybe the EGR is stuck shut and he just has a CEL. We should all pray for that kind of failure :pepper:

So, kevinl is it running normal or rough with the CEL and the code?

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Tue Sep 14, 2010 7:13 pm

flman wrote:

warp2diesel wrote:

Sorry if I have a cynical attitude toward codes, all they indicate is a problem that needs to be checked by other means as well. Other means include, visual inspection, checking with a VOM, making sure the plug is not knocked loose, on and on.
Codes are smoke signals to steer you in the right direction to find a fire, not a Divine Message Spoon Feeding you the answer.
Lets skip the Ca Ca El Pollo, he needs to get to work and fix the problem, the code is only a hint.

But Warp, he did not say it was running bad yet, maybe the EGR is stuck shut and he just has a CEL. We should all pray for that kind of failure :pepper:

So, kevinl is it running normal or rough with the CEL and the code?

Not running bad yet is a subjective evaluation, most unless they have been properly trained don't even notice a 10% power loss.
Stuck shut does not mean it is sealed and could still be leaking, putting in an SEGR and a blocking plate is the best action.
My point is that the code or CEL is a hint that needs to be checked out and fixed by various options. Having run a shop for 14 1/2 years, I got to fix what other shops including dealers could not figure out. Stupid things like unplugged components, cut wires, blow fuses, or stuck control valves were frequently the cause. I trust the OBDII Codes or CEL as much as I trust the Internet Viagra Scams (even less than Politicians), at best they may point you in the right direction.
Like a Politician, the code may be steering kevinl in the right or wrong direction. I am sure he won't be happy if his manifold is all caked up with carbon due to a all most stuck shut EGR valve.
Even an OBDII Thumper should verify.

flman · **Posted:** Tue Sep 14, 2010 7:22 pm

warp2diesel wrote:

Not running bad yet is a subjective evaluation, most unless they have been properly trained don't even notice a 10% power loss.
Stuck shut does not mean it is sealed and could still be leaking, putting in an SEGR and a blocking plate is the best action.
My point is that the code or CEL is a hint that needs to be checked out and fixed by various options. Having run a shop for 14 1/2 years, I got to fix what other shops including dealers could not figure out. Stupid things like unplugged components, cut wires, blow fuses, or stuck control valves were frequently the cause. I trust the OBDII Codes or CEL as much as I trust the Internet Viagra Scams (even less than Politicians), at best they may point you in the right direction.
Like a Politician, the code may be steering kevinl in the right or wrong direction. I am sure he won't be happy if his manifold is all caked up with carbon due to a all most stuck shut EGR valve.
Even an OBDII Thumper should verify.

OK, now I know where you are coming from. I am a Refrigeration service owner operator for 26 years. Some of my customers treat me like the Messiah when I enter their doors :mrgreen:

Good technicians that care are hard to come by in all fields. Glad you are on the good side. :ALONE:

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Tue Sep 14, 2010 9:58 pm

flman wrote:

warp2diesel wrote:

Not running bad yet is a subjective evaluation, most unless they have been properly trained don't even notice a 10% power loss.
Stuck shut does not mean it is sealed and could still be leaking, putting in an SEGR and a blocking plate is the best action.
My point is that the code or CEL is a hint that needs to be checked out and fixed by various options. Having run a shop for 14 1/2 years, I got to fix what other shops including dealers could not figure out. Stupid things like unplugged components, cut wires, blow fuses, or stuck control valves were frequently the cause. I trust the OBDII Codes or CEL as much as I trust the Internet Viagra Scams (even less than Politicians), at best they may point you in the right direction.
Like a Politician, the code may be steering kevinl in the right or wrong direction. I am sure he won't be happy if his manifold is all caked up with carbon due to a all most stuck shut EGR valve.
Even an OBDII Thumper should verify.

OK, now I know where you are coming from. I am a Refrigeration service owner operator for 26 years. Some of my customers treat me like the Messiah when I enter their doors :mrgreen:

Good technicians that care are hard to come by in all fields. Glad you are on the good side. :ALONE:

Not all of Rudolph Diesel's innovations were with the Engine we all love that bears his name. His thermodynamics and his ICE MAKING machine was the ancestor of what you work with, AC.

Cheers

kevinl · **Joined:** Mon Sep 13, 2010 8:25 pm **Posts:** 35

Thanks for the replies! The vehicle "seems" to be running just fine, have not noticed any loss of power or mileage and no abnormal amounts of smoke, sounds or anything else. How long should it take me to do this job being somewhat handy and having an ok set of tools? Or, can I skip the cleaning and just go for the EcoTune? Also, the CEL went off by itself for a little while after cleaning the MAP (think that is what it is called) senosor on the top of the motor, I don't know if that would make any difference to any of the previous advice.

Thanks again!!
Kevin

flman · **Posted:** Wed Sep 15, 2010 6:57 am

kevinl wrote:

Thanks for the replies! The vehicle "seems" to be running just fine, have not noticed any loss of power or mileage and no abnormal amounts of smoke, sounds or anything else. How long should it take me to do this job being somewhat handy and having an ok set of tools? Or, can I skip the cleaning and just go for the EcoTune? Also, the CEL went off by itself for a little while after cleaning the MAP (think that is what it is called) senosor on the top of the motor, I don't know if that would make any difference to any of the previous advice.

Thanks again!!
Kevin

Maybe you should ask Keith at GDE, he is not likely to steer you wrong just to sell you a tune. He has invested more time and money into the electronics and EGR valve of our Jeeps then any one else has.

Phone and Email.
http://www.greendieselengineering.com/g ... od=contact

EGR help please

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