Dash power outlet problem

DirtyKK · **Posted:** Tue Nov 16, 2010 8:05 am

if you got a multimeter you could test from the fuse to the outlet and outlet to ground to see if you have continuity. could pry check for power also.

JL Rockies · **Posted:** Tue Nov 16, 2010 9:07 am

Are you sure that it's not the fuse in the charger plug itself? Outlets just don't go bad sitting there unmolested.

Folks in the electrical section seem pretty smart.

W9JAB · **Joined:** Sun Jul 12, 2009 11:50 am **Posts:** 54

I got the same thing going on,
fuses all check good but no porwe to
the outlet :grim:

H0USE34 · **Posted:** Tue Nov 16, 2010 3:06 pm

I only have one up front and it works but I also have one in the rear cargo area and it doesn't work. I haven't gotten around to messing with it but if you figure it out post up any findings.

W9JAB · **Joined:** Sun Jul 12, 2009 11:50 am **Posts:** 54

in the rear cargo area it dose have a fuse in the fuse block

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Tue Nov 16, 2010 3:11 pm

I see this all the time and it almost always ends up being the accessory being plugged into the port as having a blown fuse and the the power port.Though I have seen some power ports themselfs just go bad,not very often though.

Crashman77 · **Joined:** Tue Aug 10, 2010 12:53 am **Posts:** 1

I also have this problem with the front power outlet. I have tried multiple phone charges and accessories, I also run an FM modulator tapped into the back of the power outlet. I have checked all fuses. I have also removed the FM modulator from the circuit and still no power. No blown fuses. May be an earth fault but that would typically cause a blown fuse. So I'm a little confused now.

riptricket · **Posted:** Tue Nov 16, 2010 11:49 pm

Where would one purchase one of them if they were replacing... or adding another one...
Like maybe on black friday or cyber monday, which I think has already happened.

liquidxit2 · **Posted:** Wed Nov 17, 2010 11:51 am

You could try and test the circuit, or take the known god lighter in the back and install it in the front 2 to test to see if the circuit is bad or the actual outlet is bad. Like many have said the outlet going bad is not probable, but its possible.

jdorris · **Posted:** Wed Nov 17, 2010 12:15 pm

Before you tear apart the dash looking for a fuse...

I think they (previous posters) mean the tiny little cylinder fuse in the plug of your charger for your phone, not a fuse in the outlet. It is little, like 1/6" x 1/4". I figure you have already tried other accessories, like your air compressor, to make sure it isn't the charger at fault, not the outlet.

Can you see any corrosion in the back of the outlet making poor contact? I would double and triple check the fuse in the panel. I might even swap it out, sometimes it is hard to see the break if it is up next to the tab. Then, I would check for 12v behind the outlet itself and in the outlet. If you have power all the way to the connection at the back of the outlet and not in the outlet, then it must be a bad outlet. The outlet is pretty dang simple though, just the cylinder wall(ground) and the 12v contact in the end surrounded by ceramic or plastic insulation.

W9JAB · **Joined:** Sun Jul 12, 2009 11:50 am **Posts:** 54

What I have is the front power port "the old cigar lighter" relabeled.
I found the fuse for the one in the back right side @ rear door.
But could not find any fuse for the front one.
:?:

Duffner · **Posted:** Thu Nov 18, 2010 1:03 am

So is it just the power outlet or is it both power and cig outlets? See they are both on separate circuits possibly with a common ground. If both don't work most likely a ground problem if it's one. I'm not to familiar with the liberty s electrical.. Let me know which one and I'll research it.. On injury disability need something to tinker my mind

Duffner · **Posted:** Thu Nov 18, 2010 1:09 am

You could just run a wire from the wall of the cig lighter or the outlets ground to a known ground and see if it works

Duffner · **Posted:** Thu Nov 18, 2010 1:10 am

Why doesn't the other one work?

Duffner · **Posted:** Thu Nov 18, 2010 2:08 am

I'll look into it in the morning.. Hopefully I can figure it out for you... Worst case I'll ask a friend service manager at local jeep dealership for a wiring diagram

riptricket · **Posted:** Thu Nov 18, 2010 4:00 am

dot dot dot dot dot dot dot
Where would one purchase one of them if they were replacing... or adding another one...
Like maybe on black friday or some holiday?

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Thu Nov 18, 2010 11:38 am

yellocoyote wrote:

I have the wiring diagrams already, but thanks.

I personally think it's a fuse issue or a outlet issue. I'll pull the dash apart and tinker around some more with the fuse issue first, and also check for corrosion as someone else suggested. Worse case scenario is that I find a replacement set of outlets at a junkyard somewhere so that way I'm not out too much money.

The part # you need is 04793554AB,shouldn't be more then $15-$20.

Lima.Charlie · **Joined:** Sun Dec 27, 2009 11:02 am **Posts:** 374

I perused this post. Yellow, I had the same issue. What the problem ended up being was on the inside of the dash where the power outlets get power from. It some how became loose and needed tightenned back up to be able to make contact to whatever you are plugging into it. I use the one on the left for my GPS and the one on the right for my cell charger as well.

NewOldTimer · **Posted:** Thu Aug 25, 2011 12:13 am

yellocoyote wrote:

Duffner wrote:

Why doesn't the other one work?

Because the first time I wired my CB radio, I took the power from that outlet - I cut the positive wire and spliced it in with the positive radio wire and ran it like that for a couple of years. I have since rerouted the power for the radio to the fusebox in the engine compartment (in front of the battery)... and instead of reconnecting the power back to the outlet, I taped it off.

Common problem for 12 volt outlet failure is "spring tension" of the contacts.
Essentially, the outer case is ground and the center at the "bottom" is 12 volts.
The adapter has "springs" on the side to contact ground, and some type of "spring"
mechanism to maintain contact with 12 volts.
The outlet itself also has some spring tension on the 12 volt post for good contact.

Trouble is, all springs wear out eventually. Chances are the "spring" on the 12 volt post of the outlet has collapsed.

You can get replacement outlets, any auto parts store will have those relatively inexpensive.
Since you're replacing them anyway, now is the time to "repair" the wiring from your old CB install.

It's a really good probability that a combination of "taped off" wires, and worn out springs is the cause of your headaches.

I'd be happy to take a look at it for you at the M&G....... if I weren't gonna be outta town.... :cry:

NewOldTimer · **Posted:** Fri Aug 26, 2011 8:14 pm

yellocoyote wrote:

I removed and relocated the CB wiring to better locations last year - power out to the battery fuse box and negative to a body ground. My right side axillary outlet still worked after all of that... until just before I posted this thread.

Do the auto parts outlets have the plug with extra wire lead off the back to splice into my existing wire? The other thing that I worry about with those is whether or not the outlets are all a universal size, and how they would mount. I suppose I could always go pick one up and try it on for size... :juggle:

There is usually a 4 - 6 inch pigtail included with the outlet.

Another option is to go with the RadioShack universal "under dash" kit. Just don't use the "under dash" mount.
Pop out the old outlets, and drop in the new ones.
Includes everything you need and then some. Comes in single and dual outlet variety.
Single is about $9, dual around $16 if memory serves. :rockon:

Dash power outlet problem

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