Mobil 0w40 or Mobil 5w40

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Sun Dec 12, 2010 8:18 pm

Glend wrote:

Stay away from Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel - it is CJ rated and that formulation has talked about as prone to produce premature cam follower wear. http://zddppluscentral.com/the_daily_blog_/?y=2010&m=7

Interesting article on where the wear occurs.

Actually looking at the Mobil1 spec sheet Turbo diesel truck oil has the highest level of zink for automotive on road use. Racing and motor cycle oils have more though. This spec sheet shows it all.
http://www.mobil.com/usa-english/motoro ... _guide.pdf

Joe

racertracer · **Posted:** Sun Dec 12, 2010 9:26 pm

Lots of good information here, that's making me more undecided than before, I still don't know what oil to use.

SmokinJoe · **Posted:** Sun Dec 12, 2010 10:29 pm

I wonder what the levels of Boron and Moly are (if there is any) or if theres any other ingredient that is a sub for Zinc and Phosporous.
The real concern on alot of chats I've read so far seems to be the Zinc and Phosporous content, and nothing else that apparently is intended to take its place...
Does this mean that there is no longer an oil that meets our needs without having to "dump something else in"?

The more I read, the more my head spins :dizzy:

geordi · **Posted:** Sun Dec 12, 2010 10:58 pm

Looking at that chart, the ONLY option for our engines is the Turbo Diesel Truck and SUV oil. It is the only CF or higher rated oil with the right viscosity rating, 0w40 or 5w40. The high ratings of zinc are a good thing, as that is desirable for hardening the wear surfaces and protecting the bearings. Why all the hubbub about the oils? The motorcycle oils don't meet the viscosity (20w50 is way too thick) although they have more zinc. The racing oils aren't thin enough for winter, although that 10w40 racing oil looked like it was rated CF.

Just remember - TDT is the same product as Delvac 1 Synthetic that has been getting used in heavy trucks for years.

Do I fault the oil for my engine failure? Not directly. The engine MAY NOT have had the correct oil in it before the turbo blew, I honestly don't know, so I can't say for certain. Being too thick from the sudden cold snap and my not plugging the engine in, coupled with not enough warm-up time, MAY have been a factor in the turbo shaft snapping. I don't know that either.
But once the turbo failed, the engine pumped itself dry of oil in rapid time, which IS what caused the engine failure.

When I put the new turbo in, (not knowing that the damage was most likely already done) I filled the engine with Delvac 1300 - A standard oil that is CF rated, in 5w40. My thought process was to only use that oil to test-drive the new turbo and make certain everything was fixed, then drain it and go back to the TDT oil. I never got that far. 10 miles later, the engine expelled the rod through the pan.

Can the wrong oil be blamed for that, in only 10 miles? Highly unlikely, to the point of impossible. A full pan of clean oil is infinitely better than not having any oil, and the only performance I was sacrificing was longevity of the oil change - Which wasn't going to exceed 50 miles anyway.

Since the new engine, I have been using TDT exclusively. I have not had any problems with oil flow or hard starting this winter (or last winter in Virginia's snow) so I'm going to keep using that oil. It is within spec according to the owner's manual and the service manual, and is a high performance diesel oil... For our high-performance diesel motors.

racertracer · **Posted:** Sun Dec 12, 2010 11:14 pm

Geordi,

TDT is what I am leaning towards also, but some folks on this thread think different and it would be good to hear their argument.

SPN-87 · **Joined:** Tue Mar 09, 2010 3:09 pm **Posts:** 53

Joe Romas wrote:

SPN-87 wrote:

nursecosmo wrote:

Some time this week I'll be changing over to M1 0-30 with a bottle of Lucas ZDDP engine break in additive.

What for? You hurry up to kill your motor? VM is a very expencive for repairing....
Just my :2cents:

Yes the VM is very expensive to repair and that's exactly why they put zink in the oils to begin with........

And that's exactly why they never use 0W30 oil :wink:

Only 0W40 or 5W40 or 10W40 oil with grade: API categories SL/CF or higher (CI-4 is the best for our engine IMHO); or ACEA A3,B3,B4; or Global DHD-1.
That's why i asked: What for ?

nursecosmo - at -30F (here was -35C last winter), just pay your attention to diesel fuel at first :!:

That is the 1st reason why you engine doesn't starts.

RJM · **Posted:** Mon Dec 13, 2010 10:11 am

Co-op DMO 0w40 (Diesel Motor Oil) is all I use in my diesels.
Kinematic Viscosity
40 C, cST 57.8
100 C, cSt 15.4
Viscosity Index 154
Pour Point -57C
Ash 1.43
Zinc (ppm) 1421
TBN 11.2
CI-4/SL

nursecosmo · **Posted:** Mon Dec 13, 2010 10:57 am

SPN-87: the M1 0-30 is rated A1/B1 which meets light diesel requirements(what we have). However, it does not meet MY requirements for lubricity. That is why I add ZDDP to the oil change which should bring it up above M1 TD5-40 lubricity levels. As for the viscosity being too thin, it is not an issue here at this time of year. Many newer diesel engine manufacturers actually recommend 0-30. At -12F this morning, the engine turns over pretty sluggishly with the 5-40 in it. based on past experience, 0-30 makes for much easier cranking when the temps are this cold. You need not worry about my fuel causing hard starts. I have a tank of 70/30 winter blend in it now with an extra dose of Power Service white.

SPN-87 · **Joined:** Tue Mar 09, 2010 3:09 pm **Posts:** 53

Joe Romas - for now I hope you understand my question: What for?
Our VM R428DOHS engine is not compartible with A1/B1 graded oil. Only B3, B4. It's a big difference in high temperature oil viscosity requirements.

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Mon Dec 13, 2010 12:30 pm

SPN-87 wrote:

Joe Romas - for now I hope you understand my question: What for?
Our VM R428DOHS engine is not compartible with A1/B1 graded oil. Only B3, B4. It's a big difference in high temperature oil viscosity requirements.

So I guessed the part of his statment you didn't approve of was adding ZDDP :juggle:

My bad but maybe you should have gone on to explain your comment :jester:

Mobil 0w40 or Mobil 5w40

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