192º Thermostat - Parts Diagram/dimensions added page 1

kapalczynski · **Posted:** Sat Dec 25, 2010 8:53 pm

AJN wrote:

Curius as to why use brass and not aluminum like the housing itself?

The OEM pieces are plastic, so it would be replacing the OEM plastic threaded in pieces with the stronger brass.

- Mark

kapalczynski · **Posted:** Sat Dec 25, 2010 8:58 pm

papaindigo wrote:

I've never heard of fittings like this in AL which is a very soft metal and easily galls. Most all plumbing fittings are plastic or brass so if one is ugrading from plastic the easy choice is brass. Works well but of course you have to be careful screwing brass into AL as brass is harder. My bet is these are standard fittings and brass upgrades can be easily obtained unless we are dealing with metric threads that do not match US type threads.

I'm hoping they are easy to find. Also can one of you look and see if the small plastic elbow is required to bend up in case there is only a straight part available in the brass? If we can reroute the port straight it might be easier to find a replacement piece. I only want to do this if it does not make things difficult in installation adn if there is clearance for it however.

Also, on the brass thing... You might remember this after I mention it, but the factory sending unit is brass. Its a perfect material to screw into aluminum and should have no issues.

- Mark

fastRob · **Posted:** Sun Dec 26, 2010 10:21 pm

Merry Christmas!
Do you all appreciate the brilliant work being performed here?
I do.
I am thankful for my gifts.
And appreciate the gifts of others.

dgeist · **Posted:** Mon Dec 27, 2010 9:40 am

kapalczynski wrote:

papaindigo wrote:

I've never heard of fittings like this in AL which is a very soft metal and easily galls. Most all plumbing fittings are plastic or brass so if one is ugrading from plastic the easy choice is brass. Works well but of course you have to be careful screwing brass into AL as brass is harder. My bet is these are standard fittings and brass upgrades can be easily obtained unless we are dealing with metric threads that do not match US type threads.

I'm hoping they are easy to find. Also can one of you look and see if the small plastic elbow is required to bend up in case there is only a straight part available in the brass? If we can reroute the port straight it might be easier to find a replacement piece. I only want to do this if it does not make things difficult in installation adn if there is clearance for it however.

Mark, based on this pic, I do think the smaller nipple needs to be a 90 degree bend:

It looks like that line is the one that goes up and over the top to the coolant reservoir (but I haven't actually torn mine apart to look at it). If it were not an up bend, the line would be headed in the complete wrong direction unless it was intended to be re-plumbed out and around the outside edge of the engine bay, which would probably yield a small bundle of other problems. I'm guessing finding a 90 brass fitting is easier that re-pluming that line

Dan

kapalczynski · **Posted:** Mon Dec 27, 2010 10:58 am

dgeist wrote:

It looks like that line is the one that goes up and over the top to the coolant reservoir (but I haven't actually torn mine apart to look at it). If it were not an up bend, the line would be headed in the complete wrong direction unless it was intended to be re-plumbed out and around the outside edge of the engine bay, which would probably yield a small bundle of other problems. I'm guessing finding a 90 brass fitting is easier that re-pluming that line

Dan

Thx for your imput. I will look for a 90º. I asked just in case the 90º is unavailable in brass or outrageously priced. As long as it is a normal thread I don't think it should be hard to find a 90º so fingers crossed.

kapalczynski · **Posted:** Mon Dec 27, 2010 11:04 am

fastRob wrote:

Merry Christmas!
Do you all appreciate the brilliant work being performed here?
I do.
I am thankful for my gifts.
And appreciate the gifts of others.

Thanks fastRob! Merry Christmas to you too!!!

kapalczynski · **Posted:** Mon Dec 27, 2010 1:37 pm

Need some help guys.

The elbow is not a standard pipe fitting. It's metric and not tapered and the larger plastic port coming out is also metric and non tapered.

The small elbow size is an M10x1.25, 9.5mm OD, 5.5mm ID
The large straight port is a M20x1.5, 16mm OD, 12mm ID.

The Outside diameters are measured at the OD of the pipe, not including the nipple flange which gets thicker.

If any of you have any good ideas on where to get these (or similarsize w/ the same thread size/pitch) fittings in brass please let me know.

Any help is appreciated...including if you can even tell me what this type of pipe thread this is called. Remember it is metric size and has ZERO taper.

- Mark

kapalczynski · **Posted:** Mon Dec 27, 2010 1:52 pm

kapalczynski wrote:

Need some help guys.

The elbow is not a standard pipe fitting. It's metric and not tapered and the larger plastic port coming out is also metric and non tapered.

The small elbow size is an M10x1.25, 9.5mm OD, 5.5mm ID
The large straight port is a M20x1.5, 16mm OD, 12mm ID.

The Outside diameters are measured at the OD of the pipe, not including the nipple flange which gets thicker.

If any of you have any good ideas on where to get these (or similarsize w/ the same thread size/pitch) fittings in brass please let me know.

Any help is appreciated...including if you can even tell me what this type of pipe thread this is called. Remember it is metric size and has ZERO taper.

- Mark

I wonder ig the thread type is BSPP?

Is that or does it come in metric???

From wiki:

Parallel ('straight') threads, BSPP (British Standard Pipe Parallel Thread), which have a constant diameter; denoted by the letter G. A variant of this thread is BSPF (British Standard Pipe Fastening Thread), This thread is identical to the BSPP with the exception of its name.
Taper threads, BSPT (British Standard Pipe Taper Thread), whose diameter increases or decreases along the length of the thread; denoted by the letter R.

It seems everything I find is standard inch size and not metric. Where do I find metric pipe fittings?

grsjax · **Joined:** Sun Oct 03, 2010 7:26 pm **Posts:** 61

Why not use the closest pipe fitting size that will work? I would think a 1/4" NPT would be close.

Squeeto · **Posted:** Mon Dec 27, 2010 9:19 pm

grsjax wrote:

Why not use the closest pipe fitting size that will work? I would think a 1/4" NPT would be close.

What he said. Re-tap.

kapalczynski · **Posted:** Tue Dec 28, 2010 5:23 am

Re-tapping would require removing more material...it is very thin there, especially on the smaller port. The npt tapered thread might crack the housing if tightened in after retapped, it so very thin and aluminum will crack very easily w/pressure from the inside.

I am wondering if I can get a 3/8" elbow w/plain nipples on both ends and use a die to cut threads on one end so it will screw into the factory housing. Not sure if this will work since there may not be enough material to even thread. will look into this tomorrow when places are open.

Squeeto · **Posted:** Tue Dec 28, 2010 1:15 pm

kapalczynski wrote:

Re-tapping would require removing more material...it is very thin there, especially on the smaller port. The npt tapered thread might crack the housing if tightened in after retapped, it so very thin and aluminum will crack very easily w/pressure from the inside.

I am wondering if I can get a 3/8" elbow w/plain nipples on both ends and use a die to cut threads on one end so it will screw into the factory housing. Not sure if this will work since there may not be enough material to even thread. will look into this tomorrow when places are open.

The troughs of the bevels are too thin to thread.
Banjo bolts come in straight metric sizes. This would give you your 90 degree bend.

This is one I have in parts. You would need one with a larger nipple though.

kapalczynski · **Posted:** Tue Dec 28, 2010 8:07 pm

Squeeto wrote:

kapalczynski wrote:

Re-tapping would require removing more material...it is very thin there, especially on the smaller port. The npt tapered thread might crack the housing if tightened in after retapped, it so very thin and aluminum will crack very easily w/pressure from the inside.

I am wondering if I can get a 3/8" elbow w/plain nipples on both ends and use a die to cut threads on one end so it will screw into the factory housing. Not sure if this will work since there may not be enough material to even thread. will look into this tomorrow when places are open.

The troughs of the bevels are too thin to thread.

As long as the bottom of the threads are the same height the top of the thread height can differ and not be a problem. I couldn't find a 90 at the Lowe's home improvement store next to my house, but thought I'd try a straight to see if it would work. It turned out great. I just need to find it in a 90º bend now. I'll try an actual hardware store next.

arengant · **Posted:** Tue Dec 28, 2010 9:49 pm

kapalczynski wrote:

I'll try an actual hardware store next.

bugnout · **Posted:** Tue Dec 28, 2010 10:11 pm

I've found BSPP fittings here http://www.discounthydraulichose.com

Squeeto · **Posted:** Tue Dec 28, 2010 10:46 pm

kapalczynski wrote:

Squeeto wrote:

kapalczynski wrote:

Re-tapping would require removing more material...it is very thin there, especially on the smaller port. The npt tapered thread might crack the housing if tightened in after retapped, it so very thin and aluminum will crack very easily w/pressure from the inside.

I am wondering if I can get a 3/8" elbow w/plain nipples on both ends and use a die to cut threads on one end so it will screw into the factory housing. Not sure if this will work since there may not be enough material to even thread. will look into this tomorrow when places are open.

The troughs of the bevels are too thin to thread.

As long as the bottom of the threads are the same height the top of the thread height can differ and not be a problem. I couldn't find a 90 at the Lowe's home improvement store next to my house, but thought I'd try a straight to see if it would work. It turned out great. I just need to find it in a 90º bend now. I'll try an actual hardware store next.

Just if you change your mind, you can get the metric banjo bolts from any motorcycle shop.

WolverineFW · **Posted:** Wed Dec 29, 2010 1:09 am

kapalczynski wrote:

Need some help guys.

The elbow is not a standard pipe fitting. It's metric and not tapered and the larger plastic port coming out is also metric and non tapered.

The small elbow size is an M10x1.25, 9.5mm OD, 5.5mm ID
The large straight port is a M20x1.5, 16mm OD, 12mm ID.

The Outside diameters are measured at the OD of the pipe, not including the nipple flange which gets thicker.

If any of you have any good ideas on where to get these (or similarsize w/ the same thread size/pitch) fittings in brass please let me know.

Any help is appreciated...including if you can even tell me what this type of pipe thread this is called. Remember it is metric size and has ZERO taper.

- Mark

Very likely a ISO/BSPP metric fitting. Do they seal with metal gasket washers? ( or in the case of the plastic one, some other form of gasket washer?)

Seem like rare sizes as well. I can find lots of M10x1.0 adaptors but not M10x1.25. I only found one with a M20x1.5 sizing.

kapalczynski · **Posted:** Wed Dec 29, 2010 10:12 am

WolverineFW wrote:

kapalczynski wrote:

Need some help guys.

The elbow is not a standard pipe fitting. It's metric and not tapered and the larger plastic port coming out is also metric and non tapered.

The small elbow size is an M10x1.25, 9.5mm OD, 5.5mm ID
The large straight port is a M20x1.5, 16mm OD, 12mm ID.

The Outside diameters are measured at the OD of the pipe, not including the nipple flange which gets thicker.

If any of you have any good ideas on where to get these (or similarsize w/ the same thread size/pitch) fittings in brass please let me know.

Any help is appreciated...including if you can even tell me what this type of pipe thread this is called. Remember it is metric size and has ZERO taper.

- Mark

Very likely a ISO/BSPP metric fitting. Do they seal with metal gasket washers? ( or in the case of the plastic one, some other form of gasket washer?)

Seem like rare sizes as well. I can find lots of M10x1.0 adaptors but not M10x1.25. I only found one with a M20x1.5 sizing.

They sealed with sealand to glue of some sort after threaded in. They do not stop and seal against the housing and the elbow relies on the sealant to dry and hold it inthe vertical positiion since it is not a super tight fit.

kapalczynski · **Posted:** Wed Dec 29, 2010 10:14 am

Squeeto wrote:

Just if you change your mind, you can get the metric banjo bolts from any motorcycle shop.

Just not sure if a 10mm banjo bolt would let enough coolant flow through that port. it looked like it had very small openings. I'll look into it further in case this option doesnt pan out.

kapalczynski · **Posted:** Wed Dec 29, 2010 10:19 am

mcmastercarr.com does carry these:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#barbed-hose-fittings/=acw9fa

They are $13.08 plus shipping for a pack of 5 qty.

192º Thermostat - Parts Diagram/dimensions added page 1

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