What is the best way to check brake calipers for sticking issues even slightly? I'f I put my libby up on a lift and spin the wheels with my hands should they get at least a rotation before stopping? I want to go ahead and replace any that are not 100%.

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05' Liberty Sport CRD-
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225 75 16 General Grabber AT2s
98k miles and counting

2007 Honda CBR 600rr:)

It is normal to have some pad drag. If you get a revolution of continuation when you spin a wheel, you probably have pads that are stuck away from the rotors.

The most important thing I have found is to make sure all the slider boots are in good shape, keep the slider pins heavily greased with Permatex or equivalent slider grease, make sure the pins/bores have no burrs and REMOVE the rubber sleeves that are on one set of pins on the front calipers. (I forget if it is the upper or lower. The sleeves swell over time and seize the pins. As long as you pack the bores full of slider grease, they don't rattle. In any case, I would rather have a noisy FREE caliper than a quiet, jammed one.) Also, make sure the edges of the pads are lubed with that trick purple stuff (can't remember the name) where they fit into the calipers.

If you are doing brake work, search my posts about "pad imprinting" and save yourself all the money/time I wasted before resolving this huge recurring problem. Porterfield R4S pads are the only ones I have found that don't cause this.

DOC

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2005 KJ CRD Ltd Detroit TrueTrac Bilsteins G2 GDE "HOT" ECU GDE TCM "Tow Tune" "euro" TC SEGR Weeks Elbow New HG at 130K ARPs Clean CAT aFe Filter Magnaflow Exhaust EHM Cumminos In-Tank Lift Pump Hayden Fan Clutch Nylon Fan VH Enabled with GDE lower shutoff point Recalibrated Temp Gauge Tekonsha Prodigy Sears P-1 ZDDP

Yep, the rubber sleeve on the front caliper bolt was jamming my left side caliper. You can get new sets of those bolts and sleeves fairly cheaply but I agree that grease packing does a good job as well. Just make sure you use a good silicon grease designed for brake caliper use, and yes the Permatex one is good. Watch out for the little stainless steel slider clips on the edges of the caliper where the pad slides back and forth - I have had a couple of these clips break off a holding tab and then they can work their way out.

The rubber sleeve is NOT on the "caliper bolt". It is on one of the slider pins on each of the front calipers. Yes, replacements are available cheaply, but the new sleeves tend to expand rather quickly and jam the front calipers. AND, it is an insidious kind of thing because the jamming is not really obvious. You only find out much later that you have been losing mileage when you find unevenly worn pads and cooked rotors.

DOC

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2005 KJ CRD Ltd Detroit TrueTrac Bilsteins G2 GDE "HOT" ECU GDE TCM "Tow Tune" "euro" TC SEGR Weeks Elbow New HG at 130K ARPs Clean CAT aFe Filter Magnaflow Exhaust EHM Cumminos In-Tank Lift Pump Hayden Fan Clutch Nylon Fan VH Enabled with GDE lower shutoff point Recalibrated Temp Gauge Tekonsha Prodigy Sears P-1 ZDDP