Oily CCV effluent is fed into the compressor intake duct thru the cac to the intake plenum, with it's infamous AFC valve - engine-coolant cooled EGR effluent is dumped into the intake manifold between the AFC butterfly valve and the intake ports, where it combines with the oily CCV vapors to become the sludge (we all know and love) on the MAP - EGR cannot damage the turbo compressor, said compressor being plumb across on the opposite end of the cac...........

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'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go

We live on an Eastern mountain. Gain 700 feet in elevation coming up our 1.5 mile drive. Yes we set outside the garage for the recommended time before opening the door and driving in. As I understand the issue it isn't cooling down sufficiently before shutting down, it's cooling down sufficiently slowly before shutting down so warping the turbine won't occur because the cool-down was too abrupt. Not sure, but that's my understanding. It seems plausible, however.
We use Amsoil meeting the Chrysler/MB spec. It is: "AFL - 5W-40 Synthetic Motor Oil European Car Formula"
According to Amsoil it is "• Best performing product for European diesel and gasoline fueled engines • Fulfills the viscosity and high performance requirements of VW (including 505.01), Porsche, BMW, Mercedes Benz and others "
Recommended change is per manufacturer or 7500 miles or SIX months, or per an oil analysis. We use the six month test as we don't drive the KJ 7500 miles in that period.
BTW, I know that the dealers here about use Mobil 1 full synthetic, however, when we purchased the KJ I researched which oils actually meet the Chrysler/MB spec. I only found two, and Mobil is not one of them. The two were, at that time, Amsoil European Formula and Quaker State full synthetic. There might be more now, but then there were two.
Here's a plug for Amsoil. Their warranty is that, if you start using their oil prior to 30 thou or 40 thou miles (not exactly sure of that start point) and use it exclusively, and follow manufacturer recommendations regarding operation, oil change intervals, or alternatively their intervals, they warrant that they will repair or replace any failure caused by their product forever. Not sure if I quoted correctly, but it's something like that.
Hope this helps.

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2006 GC Lar 4.7L V8 Stock
2006 CRD Liberty: substitute Provent; SEGR

HMMMMmmmm.... My friend ran amsoil 5w40, had it tested, ran mobil 1 0w40, had it tested, and got some surprising results. I will shoot you a PM and maybe some of his test charts if he still has them and can email them to me. Mobil 1 0w-40 is a GOOD oil. Amsoil also tested very well...that is all I am going to say for now w/o data to show you all.

Mobil1 0w-40 is far FAR superior to many of Mobil 1's other fully synthetic oils. What about Mobil 1 0w-40 doesn't meet the spec??? I am curious???

I will get w/ my friend Matt and get back to you with actual data soon, I hate just saying stuff w/o proof.

- Mark

P.S. Of course Amsoil will bump their own product...what manufacturer wouldn't???

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Previous-05 CRD KJ;Current-2010 Taurus SHO Twin Turbo (450HP), 2014 Subaru Forester Turbo (stock)

They finished replacing the turbo.

The official diagnosis from the mechanic: Excessive shaft play allowing fins to contact turbo housing at certain RPMs. He did not know why the problem might have developed.

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2005 CRD Limited:
* 245/70/16 Nokian Vatiiva
* Magnaflow
* Kennedy Diesel lift pump
* Custom CCV condensor
* Custom modified thermostat housing w/bleeder valve

2006 CRD Limited (wife's)
* Bone stock

I'm confused. So my giant oil separating canister I built (or elephant hose mod) does NOT affect the turbo but only reduces MAP cleaning?

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2005 CRD Limited:
* 245/70/16 Nokian Vatiiva
* Magnaflow
* Kennedy Diesel lift pump
* Custom CCV condensor
* Custom modified thermostat housing w/bleeder valve

2006 CRD Limited (wife's)
* Bone stock

Sort of - also reduces deterioration of the inlet ducting and Boost hoses due to the combustion-generated chemicals in blowby effluent, plus slow fill-up of the CAC - ensuing MAP-cleaning post catch-can will be caked powder, rather than oil-saturated caked powder

Turbo failure could be oil-coking due to early shutdown - could be plugged catconv, resulting in excessive EBP blowing oil out of the turbine-end bearing - could be restricted oil supply - could be restricted oil drain, tho that will mostly force oil out the turbine end bearing - Boost pressure would reduce the effect on the compressor end - could be just simple defective turbo bearings or shaft - never know fer sure unless you break down the offending turbo and post pics

FYI, with broken vanes resulting from excessive shaft\bearing play, scuffing damage will be also noticed on circumference of other vanes - if resulted from injested object, all vanes will be scuffed\scraped\scratched\bent\etc on the vertical surfaces facing the inlet

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'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go

Hmmm....that's odd. I just checked and the owners manual specifically calls out 0-40W Mobile 1 Synthetic.

Although I'm often a victim of Pascal's Wager as it pertains to various forms of snake oil, I still have to wonder just how much difference there really is between brands of synthetic oil when it comes to real-world use. And, of course, the big problem with real world comparisons is that it's nearly impossible to control for all the variables presented by various driver's habits. One man's lead foot is another man's soft shoe.
And thus I go by the most rational sounding theories as well as compelling anecdotal evidence from this forum. . . .

_________________
2005 CRD Limited:
* 245/70/16 Nokian Vatiiva
* Magnaflow
* Kennedy Diesel lift pump
* Custom CCV condensor
* Custom modified thermostat housing w/bleeder valve

2006 CRD Limited (wife's)
* Bone stock

If they still have it and don't need it for return, I'll retrieve the old one and take a looksee.

_________________
2005 CRD Limited:
* 245/70/16 Nokian Vatiiva
* Magnaflow
* Kennedy Diesel lift pump
* Custom CCV condensor
* Custom modified thermostat housing w/bleeder valve

2006 CRD Limited (wife's)
* Bone stock

Tell 'em it will be dissected for show'n'tell in the KJ CRD knowledge database on this forum - maybe they'll be more amenable to contribution

_________________
'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go

Most unfortunately, I've found dealers to be very suspicious of forums. (And all them danged Internets in general) The mechanic I spoke with seemed to acknowledge most of the issues I brought to him and acknowledged the usefulness of the forum, but his boss & others at the counter have consistently poopooed it.

_________________
2005 CRD Limited:
* 245/70/16 Nokian Vatiiva
* Magnaflow
* Kennedy Diesel lift pump
* Custom CCV condensor
* Custom modified thermostat housing w/bleeder valve

2006 CRD Limited (wife's)
* Bone stock

That's because they don't like customer's knowing more about the product then they do
They can't sell as many muffler bearings that way

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Atlantic Blue 06 CRD Limited (his)
Joined by a 2000 XJ Classic (hers)

Good luck with that,you will spend alot of $$$ to prove that there oil caused the damage and they still will not pay.

FYI, most all states now recognize and accept the turbocharger as a valid exhaust noise-reducing device, or muffler - the turbocharger utilizes two (2) full-floating sleeve-type bearings on the turbine shaft - which means, for all you shades out there, the muffler bearing is now a viable product that can be sold and charged to the customer - read it and weep.......................

_________________
'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go

I hope you don't mind but I post this statement on facebook with credit of course

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2006 Black Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
K&N, Samco Hoses, Michelin 245/70-16 LTX A/T2, Fumoto F-102, V-Force Muffler, Mopar, Hitch, Trailer Wiring, Skid Plates, Slush Mats, Rear Shelf, Predator Stage 1, Transgo, ORM & CodeReader, Facet 40109 Pump
"IT'S A DIESEL THING, YOU WOULDN'T UNDERSTAND"
Certified Services Auto & Truck Repair

The above mentioned article from a GDE member(not the owner who is pretty knowledgeable about CRDs), was referring more to extended idling at rest stops and such. The amount of wear, if any, from 5 minutes of idling is way more than offset by the gain in life of the turbo, oil, exhaust valves, etc. The scenario which you paint of your driveway would indicate that your turbo is red hot by the time you get to the top. Low speeds + steep incline = poor cooling from the radiator and very high EGTs. A few months ago, someone posted a link to a remote start module which would also perform a turbo cooldown.

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Manure green 2005 CRD sport4x4, GDE Hot tune, Cat Gut, OE skids, Draw tight hitch, Duramax lift pump, 160K on multiple varieties of fuel, XM radio, Escort live with Redline, fog light mod, GPS, Icom IC7000 all band radio call sign KC9QPF, Grabber AT2s on Soft 8s, FIA grill blanket.

Is gmctd back?

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Manure green 2005 CRD sport4x4, GDE Hot tune, Cat Gut, OE skids, Draw tight hitch, Duramax lift pump, 160K on multiple varieties of fuel, XM radio, Escort live with Redline, fog light mod, GPS, Icom IC7000 all band radio call sign KC9QPF, Grabber AT2s on Soft 8s, FIA grill blanket.

either that or someone's doing a pretty good imitation... (including the memory lapses.. )

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2005 CRD
stuff
Skeptic quod gratis asseritur, gratis negatur

I disagree with that article about extended idling, for the simple fact that I believe the ultimate goal of the anti-idling crowd is related to emissions reduction.

While I admit that an idling engine will always create more emissions than an engine that is off... If you set that aside for a moment and look at the engine and turbo themselves logically, how can "excessive wear" be happening when the oil pressure is constant and the engine speed is constant? Diesels can (and do) drastically reduce the amount of fuel injected on each cycle to minuscule levels of 200:1 or so, which means that even the "emissions" argument is hard to sustain. Most diesel operating conditions are lean-burn anyway, so there is an excess of oxygen in the combustion chamber. At ultra-lean operation where there is hardly any demand on the engine, I would contend that the diesel fuel is as close to perfect combustion as possible.

The turbocharger is still spinning, because anytime there is oil pressure through the housing, the shaft is as close to a zero-resistance object as possible. The turbine is spinning just from the airflow of exhaust and intake air, so unless there is a problem with shaft play / damage causing an oil leak... The turbo is doing exactly what it does normally - Just a lot slower. No wear here! Any oil leak problems aren't caused by idling, as this is the lowest-demand on the turbo.

The oil pump in the engine is designed to meet the engine's oil pressure and flow needs from the lowest operating standard (idling) all the way to the highest redline. If your oil pressure gauge is dropping below a safe level when idling, look at the oil pump as the problem, or the filtration system.

A large "industrial" diesel such as in a large power generator (google MQ Power DCA25SSI for an example) basically runs at idle speed for every single hour of its operating life. Do they leak or do damage to themselves? No. (They are also exempt from most emissions regs like EGR, but are using an Izuzu diesel engine similar to our CRD)

My final observation on this is from actual practical experience: I have idled both my VW TDI Jetta and my CRD for more than 8 hours at a stretch while on long trips. The VW did this multiple times in the 150k miles I had it, without replacement of the turbo or engine. Point of fact, when I sold the VW to someone who had the EXACT same vehicle model and year already... He wanted to know what was so drastically wrong with the engine - Of HIS! Mine performed MUCH faster and smoother than his Jetta TDI did. The only mod on my Jetta besides removal of the EGR system was larger nozzles.

The CRD has performed great any time I have asked it to remain idling, and I do not make any connection between the engine problem I did have and idling - They were not in proximity of mileage in any way.

YMMV, but it is my personal belief and contention that idling your diesel is a personal choice based on current needs and conditions, not prohibited due to any mechanical consideration within the engine or turbo.

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Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

The only thing I have against idling is that it significantly decreases your average miles per gallon. (You are traveling zero miles and yet still burning fuel. )

I let the oil get flowing for 15-20 seconds on a cold start, then put it in gear and gently drive the first few miles as the motor warms up.

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2006 CRD GDE ECO/HOT Tunes and TCM swap and HD Mopar Torque Converter, EHM
2003 Jetta TDI 155K all stock
1957 International V8 Diesel

Although I don't think that idling is great for the engine, it will save a turbocharger from coking the bearings.

@geordi: regardless of whether you do it all the time or not, extended idling in a diesel is generally bad for the engine.

#1 the fuel, although injected in small amounts into an oxygen rich environment, does not burn well. This causes wet stacking, fuel in the oil, etc. The reasons for the poor burn are several, but mainly because the combustion chamber walls are too cool to keep any fuel which makes it there from vaporising back into the chamber and burning. The atomization is also less than required for a full burn because the induction swirl is greatly decreased, the induction pressure is greatly reduced and the fuel injection pressure is only a fraction of what it is at load, all of which create a bad environment for a complete burn.

#2 idling causes a lot of soot buildup on the cylinder walls, rings, valves, etc. Abrasive soot is bad for metal parts.

#3 idling creates a lot of vibrational stress on the engine. This is bad for dampers, timing belts, alternator pulleys,etc.

The generator you referenced is NOT intended to run at idle for extended intervals. It's spec sheet indicates an operating RPM of 1800.
http://www.steadypower.com/catalog/prod ... 0&tb=specs

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Manure green 2005 CRD sport4x4, GDE Hot tune, Cat Gut, OE skids, Draw tight hitch, Duramax lift pump, 160K on multiple varieties of fuel, XM radio, Escort live with Redline, fog light mod, GPS, Icom IC7000 all band radio call sign KC9QPF, Grabber AT2s on Soft 8s, FIA grill blanket.