I am the one who walks through the Casino and goes to the restaurant with out dropping a cent into the slot machines, and walks out after my meal.
I chose my SunCoast torque converter, Trango kit, PML Extra Deep pan, InMotion Stage II tune, and fuel Cooler, so I will have full torque, no shudder and be able to tow 7,000 lbs. I use my Boost, Oil Pressure, EGT, and Trans Temp Gauges and watch them when I drive or Tow. Again I don't gamble anymore (as I did when younger) with reliability. Plus, I want Sir Isac Newton to Rest in Peace and not defy the Laws of Physics.
I can lock my Non-F37 TCM into 5th high at 47 MPH with no shudder, my SunCoast has the flywheel mass to smooth out the torsional vibrations at the lower RPMs. When I tow a load of 5000lbs or more, I shut off the OD and turn it back on when I get to 60MPH. I am not abusing my CRD with the extra modifications I have done to undo the Bean Counter Engineering. With out taking extra steps or living with in the limitations of the Stock CRD, the owner is only fooling him/her self.
With all of that said: No converter can be shudder free with a bad front pump or trans fluid other than the Mopar specified ATF+4. Kevlar reinforced friction material and a billet front cover is stronger than stock, Simple Law of Physics.
For those of you who enjoy gambling, you may have more fun at a Casino than with your CRD
The advice I read on how far to push the accelerator with what ECM tune and TCM tune with what version of Chrysler Torque Converter reminds me of all the junk advice some would get about street racing and how to evade RADAR in High School.
