New to the forum 2006 Liberty CRD with 162k 130K on WVO

Vern67 · **Posted:** Wed Jan 19, 2011 7:49 pm

My liberty is down, leaking from the intercooler. Lots of oil blowing from the leak....any sugestions. Turbo replaced at 80K, EGR valve replaced at 35K and 80K. Check engine light has been lit since approx 37K miles. Check it with a code reader from time to time. Replaced the alternator 2 times. Replaced the Serpintine belt tentioner at 155K. Wheel bearings lasted 125K. Brakes all re done with EBC pads and rotors. Rocky mountain 2.5 inch lift. Upper a arms from Jeepin By Al. I love this Jeep but the motor has me worried....Want to make it bullet proof. Need to get 300K out of it....still payin on it....

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Wed Jan 19, 2011 9:03 pm

Howdy - welcome to LOST
you don't mention a timing belt?? it's 100K replacement

The oil leaking form the intercooler original came from the CCV valve - search on EHM.
I'd guess the leak means replacement or at least pull/ patch/clean.

and Sir Sams Noob guide is good reading
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=54207

Vern67 · **Posted:** Thu Jan 20, 2011 7:43 pm

I agree with your diagnosis on the oil for normal conditions...accept that I am down 2 quarts in the motor on a 45 mile trip home and have it blowing out of the intercooler.

Vern67 · **Posted:** Thu Jan 20, 2011 7:55 pm

I have enjoyed reading the tread you provided. I intend to implement all of the recomended maintenance. This could have saved me many gallons of fuel.

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Thu Jan 20, 2011 8:20 pm

Vern67 wrote:

I agree with your diagnosis on the oil for normal conditions...accept that I am down 2 quarts in the motor on a 45 mile trip home and have it blowing out of the intercooler.

That's in the Danger zone!! - you may have a blown turbo seal - we've had a couple of folks lose a Turbo and the oil lost killed the Engine..

(lousy design - oil pressure switch is at the oil pickup - it's always good - oil goes to Turbo before coming back to the bearings - if you lose the Turbo oil seals - you can lose the engine bearings.)

the CCV should dump about 1 oz/thousand miles - quarts means something else is wrong

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Thu Jan 20, 2011 8:40 pm

Vern - try posting over in the CRD Love that Torque - section
lots of the CRD folks don't check the 4x4 section

JL Rockies · **Posted:** Fri Jan 21, 2011 1:24 pm

Yes... the CRD section is their "happy place".

Vern67 · **Posted:** Fri Jan 21, 2011 7:16 pm

Removed the turbo today. In touch with some folks at BD Diesel Performance...lookin for a rebuild.
Trying to figure out how to clean the intercooler....hmmmm
Discharge hose from the intercooler had a huge rip in it.

litton · **Posted:** Sat Jan 22, 2011 10:42 am

Shouldn't need to clean the intecooler. With good hoses and turbo, the oil will be blown out and consumed.

Vern67 · **Posted:** Sat Jan 22, 2011 11:07 am

I stuffed a suction hose in the cooler and got no oil out. I plan on pressure testing before it goes back into service. Why are they not built with a drain?? Also found the inlet to the turbo was cracked and letting air in...for who knows how long....to the intake bypassing the filter. Plan on changing the oil prior to start up.

Some one comented on turbo cooldown after running....I will be honest I am not good about letting the turbo cool prior to shut down. I do not turn the motor off directly after comming off the highway....there is in town driving before turning the motor off.
After the last turbo replacement I was religious about it for a month or so and then became complacent.

Anyone out there have high mileage on their CRD....

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Sat Jan 22, 2011 6:23 pm

Unless I missed it on your first post have you ever changed your timing belt and related items?

Vern67 · **Posted:** Sat Jan 22, 2011 6:32 pm

I have not changed the timing belt. I cant stand dealerships and they are all I have for this maintenance. Any recomendations.

GreenDieselEngineering · **Joined:** Sun Jun 07, 2009 5:10 pm **Posts:** 1111

Change the timing belt. Check the codes and let us know. Can you describe your WVO set-up and when it i used?

racertracer · **Posted:** Sat Jan 22, 2011 8:43 pm

Well it should have you worried if you're 55,000 miles past your timing belt maintenance; you're playing Russian roulette every time you start your engine.

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Sat Jan 22, 2011 9:06 pm

Vern - if you have a good mechanic that you can work with - the hard part of the timing belt is getting the right tools to hold things in place - and GreenDieselEngineering will rent you those (& Kieth has a lot on knowledge about the CRD).

geordi · **Posted:** Sat Jan 22, 2011 9:12 pm

Vern: Where are you physically located? We might be able to suggest a member nearby, or at least a decent shop who can do that timing belt. DO NOT DRIVE IT until you get that belt changed, this turbo problem may have saved your engine by forcing you to stop. You lose that belt, your pistons WILL destroy the rocker arms. Its a huge mess.

As for the turbo - I have a spare I would be willing to sell you. I'm concerned about the number of turbo failures you have had though, how often do you change the oil, and with what oil?

Incorrect oil may or may not have been in my engine (I cannot say for certain either way) when my turbo failed, but the loss of the turbo seal allowed the oil to escape VERY quickly - I was down a gallon in less than a mile. You are VERY VERY VERY lucky right now. Let us help you get it back on the road.

Our CRDs ONLY can use synthetic oil, and the consensus is (and from the manual too) that Mobil 1 Truck & SUV or Mobil 1 Delvac Synthetic (same product, different packaging) are the best oil to use, in either a 0w-40 or 5w-40. Shell Rotella Synthetic is OK too. Any other grade or anything non-synthetic is bad bad bad for your engine.

If you are anywhere near the South East USA, I have a set of the tools too, and will be doing my own timing belt soon. I'm just over 100k now, just waiting for some money to get the parts.

Vern67 · **Posted:** Sun Jan 23, 2011 10:11 pm

I live in frigid Kane PA. I change the oil every 5K miles. I use a good oil filter, the larger size, as my skid plate is removed. I also use the 5-40 Shell Rotella Synthetic. The motor seemed to burn Mobil 1 and Amsoil. The turbo is being sent to BD-Power for evaluation and rebuild.

Being that I am saving some money by doing the repair myself i was thinking of investing in the tools for the timing belt???

I have been running WVO in a Golden Fuel System setup. It consists of an auxillary 20 gallon tank strapped in behind the rear seat. Tank is heated by the engine coolant. The fuel runs thru a separate Racor filter. A selenoid valve is used to switch between the normal tank and the WVO tank. I filter the oil using 4 stages, settling, coarse filtration, midfiltration and final filtration of 1 micron. I can run on 100% WVO but the motor is slugish. I had a chip that improved performance....it burned up after at 120K. Now i mix the WVO and deisel 50% or 1 to 1 ratio and get good fuel economy, performance and fuel savings. It works well even in the frigid northeast.

All of my fuel savings from running WVO has been eaten up on repairs to keep this deisel running. Turbos, EGRs, Alternators (3) I cant say i have saved a penny....but I love the power of this little motor. It tows better than any gas truck I have had. It rides great and handles good. The four wheel drive is awesome. I am a sucker for this Jeep.

geordi · **Posted:** Sun Jan 23, 2011 11:21 pm

Two things to save you some BIG money: Stop replacing the EGR, get an SEGR device or a tune from Green Diesel Engineering, and forget that the EGR is even in there.
Second: Stop buying new alternators! Advance Auto has a lifetime warranty on the alternator, and they DO have the proper unit with the proper clutch for our application. Getting a bad unit is possible, but you only have to pay for it once: $150 and done, get a bad one? Take it back, get another free.

Another way to save your engine - EHM. Get rid of the oil entering your intake and intercooler from the CCV puck. You might easily have a losing-oil problem due to overfilling it, and a bad CCV design. These engines don't normally burn oil. Using SVO, I can't say whether you would be causing more wear or not, but you shouldn't be losing oil on one type, and not on another. Stay away from Amsoil on these, it isn't proven like Mobil or Rotella are.

You say you HAD a "chip" that burned up? That may DIRECTLY be the cause of your turbo failures. Unless it was a complete engine tune like from GDE, you were running a "cheater chip" that simply modifies the sensor signal that the computer sees. BAD IDEA on our engines. The turbo is already running close to its design limitations in a stock configuration, and without an EGT gauge or a boost gauge (NOT computer connected) to tell you PRECISELY what the turbo is up to... You are very likely causing these failures. I had one of those myself, and after installing the EGT and Boost gauges, I was shocked at how high the turbo was being allowed to spike. Very very bad for the turbo life. Take that crap out of there, use a tune that is a complete solution and TESTED to remain within the safe zone for our engines.

naturist · **Posted:** Mon Jan 24, 2011 3:56 pm

I will second that "change your timing belt" post and raise you a DON'T START THIS ENGINE AGAIN UNTIL YOU DO IT.

This is an interference engine. If that belt breaks while the engine is running, you will have a massive paperweight, as all valves, pistons, rods, possibly the cam and crank will be toast. Maybe the head and block, as well. If it goes at idle (hah! like that's probable) and you might get by replacing only some valves, pistons, rods and the head.

I'd add that if you want this engine/vehicle to be bullet-proof, you're already 130,000 miles beyond the ability to achieve that by running WVO. WVO works -- in a diesel that has a WWII vintage fuel injection system, but it is troublesome in anything built after about 1990, and pure death in anything close to modern, which this common rail diesel is.

That you've gotten 130,000 miles on WVO suggests to me that it is possible that the reason you are losing oil is that the rings are so coked up they've quit working, and the blow-by is simply blowing all your oil straight out of the crankcase.

You say check engine light has been on continuously since 37,000 miles, yet you didn't say what codes you got. I'll bet they were "fuel pressure too high" codes. This is a very poor choice of a diesel to try to run WVO with.

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Mon Jan 24, 2011 4:50 pm

naturist wrote:

I'd add that if you want this engine/vehicle to be bullet-proof, you're already 130,000 miles beyond the ability to achieve that by running WVO. WVO works -- in a diesel that has a WWII vintage fuel injection system, but it is troublesome in anything built after about 1990, and pure death in anything close to modern, which this common rail diesel is.

This is absolutely not true. With a proper WVO system its hardly any different than running #2. The important thing about WVO or SVO is heating the fuel as hot as possible to improve the viscosity. WVO needs to be heated to AT LEAST 180F, and ideally more like 200-200F.

If he has observed proper warm up and shut down with his WVO system I forsee no reason that it would have caused any problems.

New to the forum 2006 Liberty CRD with 162k 130K on WVO

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