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 Post subject: To Al and anyone getting his upper A arms
PostPosted: Tue Mar 14, 2006 8:27 pm 
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Location: Houston Texas
Al I had a little problem with the arms... after a few days the ball joint backed out and started to make all kinds of noise... After I got the arms back off and unscrewed the ball joint I noticed some buck shot weld under where the joint should seat so it would not screw down flat. I would also suggest useing loctite on the joint.

Also I cut the metal out from under where the arms mount to the body to give more room. (no more hitting)

Other than that I love them... much better than stock.

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Al's upper A arms
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 Post subject: Sorry I didn't see this
PostPosted: Wed Mar 15, 2006 7:01 pm 
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Location: Blairstown, NJ
Looks like I need to go out and get some lock tight. Let me know if this happens again. Guys with your new arms please make sure they are tight. I install the ball joints myself, I haven't been torqueing them down, I guess I should be. This has happen before to one other set. However this was one of the older sets, and I think the threads in the older NASCAR bungs (yes really we got them from a guy that made them for the Busch North series) the bung stripped out. I am waiting to get the set back to see if that is what happen. I sent the customer a new set of arms. This style arms have a heavier bung with deeper threads to hold the ball joint in place.

Al

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 16, 2006 2:13 am 
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SFA doesn't snap at the ball joint
SFA doesn't snap at the ball joint
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Joined: Mon Jul 11, 2005 7:12 pm
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Location: Spokane, WA
did you take pictures?

You are talking about where the actual joint fits into the arm? How would I see if it is loose while on the truck?

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 Post subject: my arms
PostPosted: Thu Mar 16, 2006 3:48 pm 
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If it is loose, it will back out. The ball joints are screw in. You will have a small gap between the bung and the top of the ball joint. And it will rattle a little. I don't think you will have a problem with yours. I put them in with an impact gun. They should be nice and tight.

Al

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One Ruby, One Grand Cherokee, One YJ, One disassembled CJ, one Chevy Mason dump, one hotrod IH Pick-up, couple of antique tractors.
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 Post subject: Same thing happened
PostPosted: Fri Mar 17, 2006 4:10 pm 
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I had the same thing happen last weekend, I wouldn't blame Al for this, its something that I should have checked on install. Until the arm is mounted to the vehicle it is difficult to really torque the ball joint into the bung. It will only be a problem for a short time until the ball joints get broken in.

The "problem" with the ball joints is they are very stiff when new, and the ball doesn't rotate in the socket very well until they are broken in. The outer part of the ball joint is threaded into the bung, so every time you turn left, the ball joint unscrews itself from the arm. I just used a pipe wrench and grabbed onto the flats to torque the ball joint back in place.
After cranking it back in place an kissed it with the welder. Just a small weld that can be filed or ground off if i need to change the ball joint some day.

Thanks Al, the arms rock. If I would have had to buy one more set of factory upper arms, the KJ might have had a forsale sign in the window!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Mar 17, 2006 4:31 pm 
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Are Al's arms welded together? If one of those welds break do you die? I really wish I could go ahead and get his new balljoints before he stops selling them or something. I probably never will though unless mine break or something.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Mar 17, 2006 6:49 pm 
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Location: Fort Dix, NJ
With a lift, you will have a problem with the OEM balljoints before you will even have a hint of problem with the one's that Al has had made and tested before he has put them for sale. I am glad that I have mine and can definately say that I can tell the difference.

Thanks again Al for a GREAT product.

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