What to look for when examining/test driving a CRD

doubleb · **Posted:** Sun Feb 13, 2011 12:44 pm

Hi all,

FIrst let me preface this by saying that I have read the Noob Guide. I searched around but couldn't find much on this subject..

Well, next week I will be checking out a '06 CRD with around 80k on the odometer. What are some common issues to look for so I don't end up with a lemon, and for negotiation purposes. Any tips are appreciated.

Cheers

Drewd · **Joined:** Mon Feb 06, 2006 12:24 pm **Posts:** 902

Couple of things. FIRST OF ALL, WHERE DO YOU LIVE? There may be a CRD guru nearby that can help you. Its always good to be able to compare a well maintained CRD with a vehicle that is for sale. I test drove an 05 CRD 3 years ago that had low mileage but a shot engine-it was fairly hard to start (long crank times) and had NO power even under full boost. It had trouble maintaining speed at a steep highway pass that mine had no problems pulling 95mph up with no issues.

Check for LOST sticker on vehicle. If there is one, odds are the person isn't clueless and did his own maintenance and didn't neglect vehicle. It also means odds are vehicle has desired mods: Provent CCV, lift pump (in-line, or in tank), and GDE tune, possibly upgraded T/C/

1. Cold start. Hopefully it is cold in the early morning. Glow plugs won't come on below 40 deg and if the vehicle has a bad one, it won't throw a code in warm temps or a warmed engine block. If engine is warm, glow plugs and/or hard start isues may not be obvious (air in fuel system is common without lift pump and a racor or new improved OEM filter)
Request that the owners not start vehicle before you get there. Check engine block and exhaust area with the back of your hand to ensure it wasn't started. Note how long it takes to start and howit runs cold Look for anything unusual such as rough running (cold starts are louder and that is ok) and any unusual smoke out of exhuast-report back exhaust color. Very common tranny problem is air in the system which requires idling for several minnutes before engaging gear....a cold engine start will check for this problem. Check hot engine restart. If factory OEM filter is on, hard starts may be from air in system but use that to your advantage. When at temperature, the engine temp gauge pointer is about 2 needle widths left of the 1/2 way mark. Higher or lower is bad.

2. Have owner take a drive with you...insist that he drives and have him take it on the highway. Upon return back to home, see if owner does a turbo cooldown after the highway drive before shutting it down. If not, run away.

3. If no provent crank case ventilation filter installed, don't bother. Your intercooler and intake is probably well gunked up.

4. Ask about oil changes. If a diesel oil was used, extended oil change intervals 5-10k miles is fine. If gas engine oil, even mobil 1, were used, run away.

5. Check air filter, mind don't last more than 10k.

6. Look for oil leaks, pull front skid plate and check under turbo (pax side), check for rear main seal leak, and check for valve cover gasket oil leaks (expensive repair). Check front, center, rear diffs for lil leaks. Ask how often diff fluids have been replaced.

7. Bring OBD scan code reader and check for codes that may not light up the check engine lite.

8. Ensure, part time, full time, and low 4x4 settings all work.

7. Engine should have plenty of power. No reason why you can't get up to 70-75mph on a standard length highway on-ramp. Take it up to redline in first several gears (full go-pedal pushed from the get go) to ensure no problems and engine doesn't go into limp mode (only on a fully warmed up engine). Ensure tranny shifts fine into each gear at full "throttle" and lesser go-pedal settings. If the engine was babied without occasional hard acceleration, its possible that the variable vanes in the turbo can get gunked up and stuck.

8. Check engine oil. Level should be about 1/2-3/4 between add and full marks. If on full or higher, engine oil is overfull which can gunk up intake. Pitch black oil is normal and color of oil is no indication of anything. Oil will turn pitch black soon after an oil change.

9. Broken engine mount (pax side), quite common. There is a way to see if it is bad but I don't remember (do a search). It has to do with vibration levels when shifting from stop to reverse and/or back to forward or something like that.

doubleb · **Posted:** Sun Feb 13, 2011 2:40 pm

Thanks for the impressive list, I will be sure to check that stuff out!

This vehicle is near Seattle, does anyone know of a good CRD mechanic/guru around those parts?

VMKJCRD · **Posted:** Sun Feb 13, 2011 8:08 pm

Also something you should look at, the jeep already has 80k on her so at 100k you will have to get the timing belt changed and water pump. That right there will set you back thousand dollars depending on the place that does it. So depending on your driving style it can either be 6 months or a year. That's something you should tell the the salesman to see if he can knock something off the price.

JCDuke · **Joined:** Mon Feb 07, 2011 8:54 pm **Posts:** 6

Everything in this list is good. I had the motor mount issue on mine. cost to fix was ~$450. However the dealership replaced the stock TC for a euro one at no cost because they initially thought that was the problem. I believe the MM was an upgraded part # as well. Also pull the sensor plugs out of the fuel water separator/filter assembly and check for burnt connections. This was a common problem in '05 not sure about '06. It is not a hard DIY fix and it only cost ~$100 for the part (includes new filter), but it is probably worth several hundred at the bargaining table. The fuel heater burns out and trashes the plug as well. This caused a small fuel leak (through the plug!) on mine. I like my CRD and recommend one. I get 22 MPG now. It was 20 before I unplugged the EGR MAF. It runs MUCH cleaner now. With it plugged in I had a constant cloud behind me anytime I accelerated. Have fun and stay on LOST. It is a great resource with lots of knowledgeable people.

kapalczynski · **Posted:** Wed Feb 16, 2011 3:44 pm

Agreed on the list and the timing belt needing to be done at 100k miles.

The timing belt parts list alone is about $500-600 for just parts, most mechanics I wouldn't trust doing this, some dealerships I wouldn't trust doing mine. With the right tools (rentable from GDE for $30) it is fairly easy to change yourself. The reason I mention I wouldn't trust many mechanics with a timing belt on the CRD is mainly because the cog pulleys are not keyed and if not torqued down right they can slip and cause engine damage (which is hard to prove was a mechanics fault).

Labor is on top of the above listed parts only price.

I would call a Jeep dealership (not the one where you are at) and get a quote to get a timing belt replaced, water pump, idler pulleys, tensioner, thermostat, coolant flush (all done w/ timing belt) and use that in the bargaining, it is probably closer to $1500 range w/ labor at a dealership.

Also as mentioned, if you know someone that owns a CRD, take them with you. they know the normal CRD engine sounds and can notice something that a non-trained ear may not. Most CRD owners also know all the common issues and can help you make a good decision based on the vehicle.

I bought mine at 80k or so miles and sold it at 99k miles right after I had done the timing belt. It was a FANTASTIC vehicle and I LOVED it. I definitely miss the fuel economy and that it never hardly down-shifted on hills.

My main reason for selling her was that I wanted more ground clearance which a solid axle Grand Cherokee with a 6.5" lift provided.

Good luck on your venture! I wish you could have bought mine, it was in top notch shape with all the maintenance done and ready to go for another 100k. I still talk to the buyer and he has had no issues still

- Mark

dkenny · **Posted:** Wed Feb 16, 2011 6:34 pm

has any mods been done?

forgive me if these are a repeat.
something for the CCV? provent, bypass..
when was the MAP last cleaned?
filter filter head..newest version? filter changed when?
lift pump? was this added? if not you might want to think about an intake pump or an external pump
I assume you have checked for codes? any to report?
does it have the newest type glow plugs? this would be a plus
does it have the euro TC? another plus
what about GDE tunes? another plus?
SEGR? a plus..or just about anything that KILLS the EGR..
fluids changed? I think all are required by now....

some other thoughts..
when you actually drive the CRD...
first its not a gasser..there is a slight delay before the turbo kicks..don't put the pedal to the medal while turning..at first..

during the test drive...at about 30 MPH..put the pedal to the metal..100%%%%...it should sit you back in you seat..without kickup or too much of a delay..might even squeal the tires..this is GOOD.

what about gauges..aftermarket? any?
things like fuel pressure/vacuum, boost, EGT, tranny temps..

I hope this helps
I know my wife loves hers...and I wish my Dodge1500 had the same engine..ok maybe a 3.5 liter version..

are you willing/able to work on it yourself? you can save a bunch on money and bypass lots of headache by doing the work yourself.
I have and so have many others

-dkenny

Roostre · **Joined:** Sun Oct 24, 2010 3:57 pm **Posts:** 195

I read everything here before I bought mine and I still missed the low temperature due to a failed open thermostat.

The gauge should read close to straight up in the center- search the thermostat threads; there are some good pictures.

I can't wait to get this thermostat fixed and see what kind of MPG's she can really get. :pepper:

doubleb · **Posted:** Wed Feb 16, 2011 8:12 pm

Thanks for these great responses guys. I will be test driving it this weekend....if all goes to plan I'll be driving it home. Cheers

What to look for when examining/test driving a CRD

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