Engine Flush

rayamash · **Posted:** Wed Feb 16, 2011 8:20 pm

what are the thoughts of an engine flush. My libby has 90k miles.

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Wed Feb 16, 2011 8:43 pm

rayamash wrote:

what are the thoughts of an engine flush using kerosene? My libby has 90k miles.
Thanks in advance

Good use of the noob guide image!

I would say that to flush with kerosine probably isn't a good idea. If the oil has been changed regularly I can't imagine there would be too much really nasty buildup stuff in the engine. To top it off that fuel oil running around in the engine isn't a good lubricant, and while it may only be in there a short while I kinda don't like the idea of how it might affect the turbo bearings.

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Wed Feb 16, 2011 10:10 pm

I think the turbo bearings would be an afterthought - you'll kill the mains, rods and probably sieze the engine before the turbo gets up to speed

(Kerosene does not lubricate well)

racertracer · **Posted:** Wed Feb 16, 2011 11:11 pm

Use this instead:

http://www.barsproducts.com/100QR.htm

it's safe and easy.

bhc04 · **Posted:** Wed Feb 16, 2011 11:17 pm

Use this instead:

http://www.barsproducts.com/100QR.htm

it's safe and easy.

Have you tried this in your CRD? Use it on a regular basis?

Drewd · **Joined:** Mon Feb 06, 2006 12:24 pm **Posts:** 902

If you feel you need to "clean" the internals of your engine. There is only one way to go:
http://www.auto-rx.com/ This is a proven product with many testimonials. I used this to get rid of lifter noise in an old Nissan. It took a while and did the trick. It also got rid of visible oil varnish on the valve train and after a treatment, it was good as new. I did use it in my CRD to stop an oil leak in my valve cover but it didn't help ;-(

racertracer · **Posted:** Thu Feb 17, 2011 4:46 am

bhc04 wrote:

Use this instead:

http://www.barsproducts.com/100QR.htm

it's safe and easy.

Have you tried this in your CRD? Use it on a regular basis?

Tried it and drove the vehicle for 1000 miles before changing the oil.

yakers · **Posted:** Thu Feb 17, 2011 12:02 pm

Kerosene treatment goes back so far I would have to consult my long departed Dad as to the 'system' he used in WWII vehicle maintenance. This approach was used long ago before modern detergents in gas and good additive packages in oil. On a gas engine it probably would not hurt if you added some kerosene to the oil and only idled the the engine for 10 minutes. May work that way in our diesels too. But I just don't see what is to be gained by this now and definitely don't rev too high or put too much load on thinned oil. Modern oils really are an engineering miracle.

UFO · **Posted:** Thu Feb 17, 2011 12:13 pm

Kerosene makes no sense to me. It's not a good solvent and it's not a good lubricant. Why do you think the insides need cleaning anyway? Just run a good synthetic oil and give it good clean fuel and air. And of course turn off the EGR.

SLS · **Posted:** Sat Feb 19, 2011 3:55 am

Well today there are a number of products made to do an engine and transmission flush. Kerosene and diesel fuel is still used on the bench for cleaning. As noted one should use caution on using it in your engine.
This is the one I would use: https://www.amsoil.com/catalog.aspx?GroupID=953
But hey it's your engine

RJM · **Posted:** Sat Feb 19, 2011 11:27 am

Forget all the snake oil, and use good quality oil and filter.

flman · **Posted:** Sat Feb 19, 2011 11:36 am

Of all the diesels I have owned for the past 19 years, using synthetic oil, I have yet to pull a valve cover and see sludge in them like a gasser would have. Diesels do not use a PCV valve, so they do not ingest oxygen and moisture the way a gasser would. Any additive in a modern diesel crank case is snake oil. Just put in the recommended oil and drive it. I use Amsoil in mine.

racertracer · **Posted:** Sat Feb 19, 2011 5:48 pm

That maybe so flman but I know what came out of mine after i did the flush and it wasn't just dirty oil.

flman · **Posted:** Sat Feb 19, 2011 7:58 pm

racertracer wrote:

That maybe so flman but I know what came out of mine after i did the flush and it wasn't just dirty oil.

What was it Monsters :frankie:

And what would have happened if it did not come out?

Do you have any pics?

naturist · **Posted:** Sat Feb 19, 2011 8:44 pm

Click & Clack, the tappet brothers (aka Tom and Ray of NPR's famous Car Talk radio show) recently told of an adventure doing that stupid trick. It cost 'em the engine: ruined main and rod bearings, scored cylinders, whole deal. Moral of the story: DON'T BE STUPID, LEAVE THE KEROSENE FLUSH FOR _OTHER_ IDIOTS.

racertracer · **Posted:** Sat Feb 19, 2011 9:05 pm

No pics. I used the five minute flush. I strained the oil as it drained using a clean tight knit rag, a small amount of tiny mushy coagulated oil bits along with even smaller dark black crunchy crap that disintegrated between my fingers.

My jeeps previous owner informed me that he was using castrol conventinal oil and that I didn't have to use the expensive oil because the cheap stuff worked just fine. I spent a chunk of change making the CRD road worthy.

The flush got rid of a hard knock coming from the top part of the passenger side of the engine.

My oil of choice is Mobil 1 Turbo diesel truck 5w40
http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/ ... 5W-40.aspx

How Sludge Forms:
Modern detergent oils suspend contaminants so they do not settle on engine parts and form sludge. When the oil becomes saturated with contaminant particles new particles settle out of the oil onto the internal engine parts and form sludge. This is why it is so critical to perform oil changes before this level of contamination is reached. The only way to know if you're oil needs changing is to have an oil analysis done. Absent this, play it safe and follow the severe service interval specified in the owner’s manual. Remember that the contaminants come from the combustion process of the fuel and the air. Synthetic oil will not prevent these contaminants. Synthetics may be marginally better at suspending more contaminant particles, but not enough to prolong oil changes by much.

I believe we put too much faith and enphasis in the power of synthetic oils being able to protect our engine past 5,000 - 6,000 mi., in turn overextending the frequency of oil changes.

We heard from a few members finding sludge in their blown engines and this may be proof.

If you've been diligent about oil changes there will be no sludge.

A good article about sludge can be found here: http://www.yotarepair.com/sludge%20article.html

SLS · **Posted:** Sun Feb 20, 2011 12:20 am

Yes, As RJM noted a good quality oil and a good filter is very important for a long engine life:!:
There is a reason the manual calls for synthetic oil.
The filter is as important as the oil. The cleaner you can keep the oil the less wear on moving parts. Some even go so fare as to use by-pass filters which removes particles less than one micron, virtually eliminating engine wear. I've seen a few references to this in this forum.

Engine Flush

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