It's 10pm - where's your lift pump?

05infernoCRDL · **Posted:** Fri Sep 19, 2008 2:28 pm

Biohazard KJ CRD wrote:

I asked Airtex why I couldn't find the E7181M in their catalog, I got this reply:

FROM: danny youngblood/fairfield/airtexproducts 09/18/2008 07:42 AM

Subject: E7181M

We have discontinued this part number.

Danny Youngblood

yep mopar redesigned something in the pump and now they have to reverse engineer
everything again so they can say it is oem quality.... been on the hunt for a Mc Parts Store
equivalent for months

05infernoCRDL · **Posted:** Mon Sep 22, 2008 11:42 pm

okay just tonight i was running low on fuel and to not burn up my new
fuel pump i took out the fuse.... well let's just say the engine did not run
after about 200ft

someone said that they took the fuse out and did not have a problem...
here is the question:

at what level was your tank?

i know they have a fuel pressure relief valve on them ... are they a two
way valve so that if the pump fails fuel can be sucked through the return
side out of the tank?

should i give it a try?

gmctd · **Posted:** Fri Mar 20, 2009 8:25 pm

Airtex E7187M is in the house

The Cummins lift pump is flow-thru-when-fail, so the CP3 should have pumped sufficient fuel when you pulled the fuse - maybe the fuel filter is dirty - or the fuel manager head is leaking air - air can pass where fuel cannot because fuel is way denser than air

Coal Cracker · **Posted:** Fri Mar 20, 2009 11:32 pm

Airtex E7187m in tank pump is available. I ordered through Autozone, and it shipped to store in 2 days. $178.00

give them the part number at counter. do not let them look up an application, you'll only get a DUHHHHHH ???????

72commando · **Joined:** Wed Mar 16, 2011 9:47 am **Posts:** 17

So, not to resurrect a 2 year old thread or anything - but does anyone have the terminals necessary for the Cummins pump mod laying around? I'd prefer to just add the power/ground to my existing 06 CRD harness

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Fri Mar 18, 2011 8:37 pm

72commando wrote:

So, not to resurrect a 2 year old thread or anything - but does anyone have the terminals necessary for the Cummins pump mod laying around? I'd prefer to just add the power/ground to my existing 06 CRD harness

Well I'm not going to tell you :goink:

But if you go back to the second page, in the first post there's a reference to another thread. Go to that thread and scroll down to the second reply from "Larry R" that tells you exactly what you want to do :jester:

72commando · **Joined:** Wed Mar 16, 2011 9:47 am **Posts:** 17

Joe Romas wrote:

Well I'm not going to tell you :goink:

But if you go back to the second page, in the first post there's a reference to another thread. Go to that thread and scroll down to the second reply from "Larry R" that tells you exactly what you want to do :jester:

But all he does is give me the wire colors! Here's what you so cryptically pointed me towards:

Larry R. wrote:

In the power distrubition center under the hood it has fuse cavity f-17 labeled fuel prime pump and there is a relay (#38 ) labelled fuel prime pump. From the relay I traced the load side wire (brown with white tracer) to connector C-100 (behind the left kick panel) , there it changed to dark green with orange tracer. From there it goes to connector C-201 ( a black connector under the dash, just right of the steering column). It then changes to dark blue with orange tracer. Then it runs along the floor under the front left seat to under the left rear seat. If you pull the carpet up under the left rear seat you will find a light grey 10 pin connector. This is where the dark blue wire with orange tracer ends. I connected a voltmeter to this wire and with the key on It has 12 volts for approx. 15 seconds, and 12 volts all the time when running. I hooked it up today, no chance to run a long road test yet.

So I've got a hot wire all the way to the rear harness. Check. Perhaps I'm confused. I thought I needed to add a wire to the harness that goes from the 10-pin (12 for the 06) to the 4-pin fuel pump connector, as well as a ground from the 4-pin to the floor pan. I planned on just adding those wires, but I'll need the Apex 2.8mm terminals to use the original connectors right? Please spell it out for me? :oops:

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Sat Mar 19, 2011 8:10 am

"I planned on just adding those wires, but I'll need the Apex 2.8mm terminals to use the original connectors right? Please spell it out for me?"
So I've got a hot wire all the way to the rear harness. Check. Perhaps I'm confused. I thought I needed to add a wire to the harness that goes from the 10-pin (12 for the 06) to the 4-pin fuel pump connector, as well as a ground from the 4-pin to the floor pan. I planned on just adding those wires, but I'll need the Apex 2.8mm terminals to use the original connectors right? Please spell it out for me? :oops:

Yep, all you need are three pins, some wire and a few hours :JEEPIN:

You'll not be able to find the pins you need at your local Radio shack :evil:

If it were easy anyone could do it :SOMBRERO:

AS I remember there was no direct/complete/easy plug-n-play solution found :oops:

Gasoline cables were not long enough and the pins for various signals were in different pin positions :dizzy:

You'll need one pin for the plug under the seat and two for the connector on the tank. For that you'll need to "improvise"

The common approach was order the gasser cable and use two of the wires with pins needed out of it, lengthen as needed to reach. Then you had extra pins/wires. So three years or so ago buyers of the cables gave their extra wires to other owners.. There were no repair cables or pins found available from Chrysler and the gasser harness was the closest thing.
Fast foward to 2011 here's what I would do now.
Look under the seat and identify the style of connector and pines used. The gender of the pins are different in each end.
Go to your local pick-n-pay salvage yard and find a Chrysleer/jeep vehicle using the same connector type. It does not have to be the same 10 pin connector, all you want are the pins and wires. I'm not sure if it was ever determined what years of chrysler cars used this connector style.
Your at the junk yard standing in oiley mud up to your ... and you've found a car with the correct style connector, get the connector with the longest length of wire possible. Make sure you get 2 or more male and female pins.
Return home and add the two missing wires to your harness. You do not have to remove the harness from the body. The new wires can be threaded through the harness before soldering the pins on.

Another solution might be to look around your jeep for unused cables and check out the ends. There's one up under the air cleaner box and I'm sure there's more. You may luck out and find the correct ones.

Seal up all connections under the jeep very good to keep all water out :idea:

72commando · **Joined:** Wed Mar 16, 2011 9:47 am **Posts:** 17

Did a little more internet sleuthing and i may have found something!

With the part numbers in hand from this writeup: http://www.auerbach.ca/kj/lift_pump/

I need 2x 54001800 (female) and 1x 54001801 (male)

Well, I found a company with no minimum order (mouser.com). They were backordered for the females of that part number, but had other seemingly identical connectors with different alloys. I went ahead and ordered every female 18-20 gauge variant they had, as well as the males. Order total? $1.57 + S&H (estimated $5 USPS).

We'll see how it goes - I'll report back here what I find. I guess I just can't bring myself to buy a $60 wiring harness for 3 terminals. I mean, I'm all for Just Emptying Every Pocket, but... :shock:

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Sat Mar 19, 2011 6:27 pm

Good find! Let us know if they fit/work ok.

I would like to redo mine with no solder joints outside to corrode.

Roostre · **Joined:** Sun Oct 24, 2010 3:57 pm **Posts:** 195

72commando wrote:

Did a little more internet sleuthing and i may have found something!

With the part numbers in hand from this writeup: http://www.auerbach.ca/kj/lift_pump/

I need 2x 54001800 (female) and 1x 54001801 (male)

Well, I found a company with no minimum order (mouser.com). They were backordered for the females of that part number, but had other seemingly identical connectors with different alloys. I went ahead and ordered every female 18-20 gauge variant they had, as well as the males. Order total? $1.57 + S&H (estimated $5 USPS).

We'll see how it goes - I'll report back here what I find. I guess I just can't bring myself to buy a $60 wiring harness for 3 terminals. I mean, I'm all for Just Emptying Every Pocket, but... :shock:

Very nice! Since you bought all the cheap ones I ordered the 54001803 and 54001818 instead- the spec sheet says they are "Note: The Nickel/Palladium/Gold plating is recommended for diesel engine applications." Cost me $0.79 and $1.07 + shipping. Beats the heck out of buying the factory harness!!

I want to try and get my lift pump in next weekend or I would have waited for you report...

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Mon Mar 21, 2011 6:57 am

When I dropped my tank I only removed the bolts on the FRONT of the two straps :BANANA:

That way I didn't have to work around y trailer hitch :SOMBRERO:

Don't forget to swap the float arms :ALONE:

72commando · **Joined:** Wed Mar 16, 2011 9:47 am **Posts:** 17

Roostre wrote:

Very nice! Since you bought all the cheap ones I ordered the 54001803 and 54001818 instead- the spec sheet says they are "Note: The Nickel/Palladium/Gold plating is recommended for diesel engine applications." Cost me $0.79 and $1.07 + shipping. Beats the heck out of buying the factory harness!!

I want to try and get my lift pump in next weekend or I would have waited for you report...

Haha, you'll probably beat me to it then. My lift pump's on it's way, I found a new one on ebay for $128 shipped

. I ordered the same connectors you bought as well. I literally just bought 1 of everything in the female 18-gauge category.

I sourced around for some of the more expensive yet available 100k timing parts (water pump, timing belt, idler pulleys, tensioner), and manage to save enough money across the board to pay for this whole upgrade. Feels pretty good to a) be able to buy parts for your Jeep (my commando is a completely different animal, you guys truly don't know what LOST means :shock:

) and b) Have more than one source so that you can find good prices.

Joe Romas wrote:

When I dropped my tank I only removed the bolts on the FRONT of the two straps :BANANA:

That way I didn't have to work around y trailer hitch :SOMBRERO:

I've got the factory tow package as well, I'll keep this in mind!

EDIT/UPDATE: Mouser just charged my order, $8.36

falcn · **Posted:** Tue Dec 06, 2011 12:57 am

For some of the lift pump applications I have seen that people T off the bleeder and into the return line - I have not seen that mentioned in this thread on most of the applications (I did not read all of them) - was it found to not be necessary to allow the low pressure lift pumps or in tank pumps addition bypass?

In other words is it ok just to install the low pressure 4-7 psi pump only?

Thanks

I purchased a 2006 trade-in with 18,000 miles on it and am adding the Provent. I put on 40,000 miles in 2 year and I love this thing! I tow an enclosed 6x10 Haulmark with my motorcycles for racing and use the single arm leveling hitch available from E-trailer - pulls better than my Expedition with 5.4L V8. I am interested in trying the in engine bay lift pump to see if it makes it even sweeter and if not needing to install any additional bypass I could do this relatively quickly without dropping the tank.

Thank you.

racertracer · **Posted:** Tue Dec 06, 2011 7:55 am

My 4.3 psi Lift pump has been in the engine bay for 3 years now and it works flawlessly. it was a 20 minute install.

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Tue Dec 06, 2011 8:25 am

The only reason to install a bypass is to bleed off air from the filter head before it gets to the CP3 pump :BANANA:

falcn · **Posted:** Tue Dec 06, 2011 11:33 am

Thanks guys. I think I will tackle this on Sunday if I am not processing deer from Saturday.

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Tue Dec 06, 2011 9:01 pm

the T off the bleeder -
was back when we thought any pressure on the injector pump was a bad thing - later - folks figured out 8-10+ psi didn't effect it - don't know if anyone now has a max number.

B99 · **Posted:** Thu Dec 08, 2011 7:41 pm

I know the 05 cummins pump works, its been in mine for 2 yrs and hasnt missed a beat. It cost me about $220 for pump and harness, switched the two pins in connector and the float arms. the primer pump is alway firm. Its nice not having the wife call you all the time "the #$%^ jeep is stalling again". I no longer have to inventory 2 filters in my garage. It was easier than I thought to install and went smoothly.

jeepdan · **Posted:** Thu Dec 08, 2011 7:49 pm

What model (part #) 05 Cummins pump do you have and what pressure is your lift pump delivering? I think the older model was a lower pressure.

It's 10pm - where's your lift pump?

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