Lift installed, now a couple of questions. PICS Added!

LetFreedomRing · **Joined:** Mon Jun 28, 2010 8:51 am **Posts:** 268

Got the lift installed last Friday, took 10 hours doing everything (including changing out the springs ourselves using harbor freight spring compressors! :shock:

) Ended up with 927 and 948 with Bilstein shocks. Took me up to 21.5 inches from middle of wheel to flare(Seems about the usual amount.)

Now, the questions.....

Took it in for an alignment at Sears (offer a 6 month 6,000 mile warranty, so next alignment at 1 or 2,000 miles will be free.) The could not get the caster dialed in correctly, which kinda surprised me because I thought that with the small lift I got, this usually isn't a problem? Were they just being lazy? What are the ill effects of caster being out? :banghead:

2nd question, would JBA upper control allow the caster to be dialed in?

And thirdly, I am now getting some vibration at slow speeds (slowing down, starting, etc) which I might attribute to U-joints? (Since this pretty much is the only angles that changed other than CV's.)

You guys will have to wait for some pictures, because my brother has them on his camera. :goink:

bunkermonkeycw · **Posted:** Mon Apr 11, 2011 7:10 am

As far as the UCAs, yes they help us get a MUCH better alignment. I am waiting for mine now.

Vibrations? Not sure. Your u-jhoint thought sounds interesting. Re-torque everything? I like to lose things in holes that cant be accessed. :furious:

Do you have all your sockets? :ROTFL:

LetFreedomRing · **Joined:** Mon Jun 28, 2010 8:51 am **Posts:** 268

Yes, I have all my tools! :mrgreen:

(Probably a 1st!)

The vibration was there prior to the lift. It is just more pronounced now. :wink:

So I am thinking either u-joints or cv's.

tommudd · **Posted:** Mon Apr 11, 2011 7:51 am

First while the arms will help at higher lifts, where you are you should be fine. I ran for 70,000 miles higher than what you are with stock arms and no problems. I have also installed lifts and put them higher with stock arms and was able to get them aligned.

I would start with rear ujoints

Also Camber must be set as close to center specs as possible. Cross caster must be within 0.5 degrees . When lifted you can scrifice some caster but agai must be within0.5 and at least 2-3 degrees, make sure toe in is right on

LetFreedomRing · **Joined:** Mon Jun 28, 2010 8:51 am **Posts:** 268

tommudd wrote:

First while the arms will help at higher lifts, where you are you should be fine. I ran for 70,000 miles higher than what you are with stock arms and no problems. I have also installed lifts and put them higher with stock arms and was able to get them aligned.

I would start with rear ujoints

Also Camber must be set as close to center specs as possible. Cross caster must be within 0.5 degrees . When lifted you can sacrifice some caster but agai must be within0.5 and at least 2-3 degrees, make sure toe in is right on

I'm assuming cross caster is the difference between both sides? If so, I *think* it's something like 2.7 and 2.9 (left and right.) I'll have to get that alignment sheet and scan it in for you guys to look over. Camber is -0.6 degrees both sides and toe is right on.

I know I don't *need* JBA arms, but they are an option if/when my upper ball joints wear out. Especially if they bring the caster back into oem spec (Do they?)

tommudd · **Posted:** Mon Apr 11, 2011 8:25 am

Yes the UCAs are an option for you, but seems many no matter what any more right away think you have to have the new arms. While they do help they are not 100% needed esp. like I said with lower lifts like yours.

Camber is the tilting of the wheels from the vertical when viewed from the front of the vehicle. When the wheels tilt outward at the top, the camber is positive (+). When the wheel tilts inward at the top, the camber is negative (-). The amount of tilt is measured in degrees from the vertical. Camber settings influence the directional control and the tire wear.

Caster is the tilting of the uppermost point of the steering axis either forward or backward (when viewed from the side of the vehicle). A backward tilt is positive (+) and a forward tilt is negative (-). Caster influences directional control of the steering but does not affect the tire wear and is not adjustable on this vehicle. Caster is affected by the vehicle height, therefore it is important to keep the body at its designed height. Overloading the vehicle or a weak or sagging rear spring will affect caster.

LetFreedomRing · **Joined:** Mon Jun 28, 2010 8:51 am **Posts:** 268

tommudd wrote:

Yes the UCAs are an option for you, but seems many no matter what any more right away think you have to have the new arms. While they do help they are not 100% needed esp. like I said with lower lifts like yours.

Camber is the tilting of the wheels from the vertical when viewed from the front of the vehicle. When the wheels tilt outward at the top, the camber is positive (+). When the wheel tilts inward at the top, the camber is negative (-). The amount of tilt is measured in degrees from the vertical. Camber settings influence the directional control and the tire wear.

Caster is the tilting of the uppermost point of the steering axis either forward or backward (when viewed from the side of the vehicle). A backward tilt is positive (+) and a forward tilt is negative (-). Caster influences directional control of the steering but does not affect the tire wear and is not adjustable on this vehicle. Caster is affected by the vehicle height, therefore it is important to keep the body at its designed height. Overloading the vehicle or a weak or sagging rear spring will affect caster.

Yes I know that I don't *need* the upper arms right this minute. All I am saying is they are an *option* when my stock arms wear out. Especially if these arms can get caster back into oem spec.

I'm kind of anal about having red blocks on my alignment sheet! That's the only thing that's bugging me! Haha. :wink:

bunkermonkeycw · **Posted:** Mon Apr 11, 2011 9:10 am

With mine I have spring contact that causes a pop...

Between that and the alignment I'm ready. But as tom said, I ran quite a while with a little lift and they were fine... and even now I am drivable and "in alignment"

Anticipating the inevitable and arm-ing up!

tommudd · **Posted:** Mon Apr 11, 2011 9:11 am

OK we'll try again :wink:

The arms will help with camber due to when lifting an IFS it pulls the top of the tire in. JBA UCAs will help push the top of the tire out a little bit and give the ball joint a better angle when lifted
When lifted we have way to much negative camber before an alignment, also thats why we need to do another once it settles in due to the camber changing

LetFreedomRing · **Joined:** Mon Jun 28, 2010 8:51 am **Posts:** 268

tommudd wrote:

OK we'll try again :wink:

The arms will help with camber due to when lifting an IFS it pulls the top of the tire in. JBA UCAs will help push the top of the tire out a little bit and give the ball joint a better angle when lifted
When lifted we have way to much negative camber before an alignment, also thats why we need to do another once it settles in due to the camber changing

Ok, so JBA only affect camber then? Seems like I won't need them after all then.

Is there anything I can do to get caster back into spec? I assume "Just live with it" will be the answer! :ROTFL:

Sorry for being so dense! :mrgreen:

LetFreedomRing · **Joined:** Mon Jun 28, 2010 8:51 am **Posts:** 268

[url=http://img820.imageshack.us/i/img1269q.jpg/]

[URL=http://img861.imageshack.us/i/img1271x.jpg/]

[URL=http://img146.imageshack.us/i/img1273c.jpg/]

[URL=http://img685.imageshack.us/i/img1275p.jpg/]

[URL=http://img189.imageshack.us/i/img1276dn.jpg/]

[URL=http://img818.imageshack.us/i/img1277m.jpg/]

LetFreedomRing · **Joined:** Mon Jun 28, 2010 8:51 am **Posts:** 268

Anything look wrong with this? Thoughts would be appreciated.

[URL=http://img856.imageshack.us/i/alignment.png/]

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Tue Apr 12, 2011 8:40 am

LetFreedomRing wrote:

Anything look wrong with this? Thoughts would be appreciated.

[URL=http://img856.imageshack.us/i/alignment.png/]

Your great for your alignment.After some settling the caster will come back closer to spec.

LetFreedomRing · **Joined:** Mon Jun 28, 2010 8:51 am **Posts:** 268

Any ideas on when to get it realigned? I got a 6 month 6,000 mile warranty so within that time frame I can align it as many times as I want for free.

Dave08 · **Joined:** Fri Nov 02, 2007 4:17 pm **Posts:** 250

Not going to say when you need to go redo it, but that is about the best you can do with stock arms. Mines come out far worse before.

bunkermonkeycw · **Posted:** Tue Apr 12, 2011 9:53 am

Dave08 wrote:

Not going to say when you need to go redo it, but that is about the best you can do with stock arms. Mines come out far worse before.

Yup.

LetFreedomRing · **Joined:** Mon Jun 28, 2010 8:51 am **Posts:** 268

So would 1 month or 2 months be recommended? Or should I check it sooner?

tommudd · **Posted:** Tue Apr 12, 2011 12:39 pm

Depends on how much you drive etc. Some take forever to get broke in due to may all smooth roads and 3 miles to work, take it out twist it up good and run it for a month then check it, then at 4 months and six. heck its free go for it.

LetFreedomRing · **Joined:** Mon Jun 28, 2010 8:51 am **Posts:** 268

tommudd wrote:

Depends on how much you drive etc. Some take forever to get broke in due to may all smooth roads and 3 miles to work, take it out twist it up good and run it for a month then check it, then at 4 months and six. heck its free go for it.

So what you are saying is a month of PA roads and it should be broken in real good. :wink:

Our roads suck........ :ROTFL:

tonycrd · **Posted:** Tue Apr 12, 2011 2:02 pm

Cool KJ...besides those mudflaps... :SOMBRERO:

Lift installed, now a couple of questions. PICS Added!

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