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 Post subject: Re: P1252
PostPosted: Wed Mar 02, 2011 12:54 pm 
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Yes the extra resistance would be a short to the ecm. Not a dead short to ground but a short never-less. I didn't get mine wet and I could of played with it and maybe get it working again but the thing only cost $31. Now I know it is fixed.

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 Post subject: Re: P1252
PostPosted: Mon Apr 18, 2011 10:34 pm 
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Location: Paw Paw, MI
With the Spring time freezing rain and snow mix early in the morning of April 18th here in Michigan, I got the P1252 Code after 2 hours of driving in 31-32 freezing precipitation and snow. The front of my CRD was coated in a heavy layer ice and slush.

Has anyone looked into a way of protect the sensor connections from moisture intrusion?

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 Post subject: Re: P1252
PostPosted: Mon Apr 18, 2011 11:00 pm 
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FuzzyJ KJ wrote:
With the Spring time freezing rain and snow mix early in the morning of April 18th here in Michigan, I got the P1252 Code after 2 hours of driving in 31-32 freezing precipitation and snow. The front of my CRD was coated in a heavy layer ice and slush.

Has anyone looked into a way of protect the sensor connections from moisture intrusion?


How about using dielectric grease on the connections and the the wires around the connector prior to soaking the engine?

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 Post subject: Re: P1252
PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2012 2:13 pm 
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Location: Netherlands
Recently I'd have this P1252 code. Yesterday I sort of dismantled the solenoid vacuum pump and put it together again. Today I went for a ride and no more CEL ! Problem seems to be fixed :roll:
Should I order a new solenoid vacuum pump anyway???


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 Post subject: Re: P1252
PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2012 2:54 pm 
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Location: Niagara Falls Canada
Good luck. I tried that too. It lasted about two days. I went to the wreckers and grabbed one fro free! It's been about a year now. I no longer wash under the hood.
I believe this solenoid controls the turbo boost. I wouldn't mess with removing it.

John

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 Post subject: Re: P1252
PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2012 3:40 pm 
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Nothing wrong with an occasional wash/degrease under the hood but you need to 1) do it on a slightly warm engine when degreaser is applied; 2) use a light hose spray to rinse not blast the degreaser off; and 3) immediately crank up and drive until you reach full operating temp. Should prevent any water induced electrical problems although that dielectric grease is a good idea.

If you mean the solenoid on the black vacuum "tower" behind the air filter box it controls the storage of vacuum in the tower and operation of the turbo's variable vanes. The solenoid can fail and throw a code, I'm not where I can check which one right now, but there is a bypass posted, with pics, that can be used to check the solenoid. I doubt the tower and vacuum pump on the turbo fail often if ever.

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