I loved the FFF. Always working hardly any effort needed by engine to turn it. its half the weight and always on. Only downside it is a bit noisy at 3-4k RPMS, but not enough to annoy me or anything. There is a bolt in spacer available now so you do not need the washer spacers as mentioned in my FFF thread so I would recommend that.

That reminds me...A guy from australia found my thread on here and could not get the same fan locally so I purchased it and sent it to him all the way in australia. He's running it and loving it over there in the heat and having no issues. I'll have to look him up and check out his rig in person if he's close to where I end up over there.

P.S. I had the same occasional overheating thing ONLY when torque converter was locked, steep hill, and lower RPMS/w heavy fuel (hence the steep hill). This only happened at lower speeds where the vehicle was not moving fast (overdrive off to lock torque converter in lower gear) so there was not much air flowing through radiator. The lack of air flow was the issue. I never let it get past 3/4 on the gauge, but after the FFF I never had an issue again. I also did not see any fuel economy difference positive or negative switching to the fixed flex fan though i did not extensively test it. Basically if you tow more than once or 2x a year or for long distances I'd highly recommend it.

P.P.S.

Training is going good here in Texas (san angelo), and they are talking about pushing us a bit harder and trying to get us graduated by the 2nd of July instead of the 8th so Hopefully I'll get some time on the Lathe/Mill before I have to move.

- Mark

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Previous-05 CRD KJ;Current-2010 Taurus SHO Twin Turbo (450HP), 2014 Subaru Forester Turbo (stock)

I highly agree. First off though, as mentioned to "test" your fan clutch there are procedures to block radiator, hold rpms at 2400 (i think, been awhile) and monitor temp gauge. The Fan clutch should kick in when the vehicle gets hot and you should hear it working.

In fact, an easy way to prevent any flex in your fan clutch is to remove it, pull it appart, drill 2 holes all the way through it and run some bolts through it. You will want to make sure they are as close to perfectly opposite to keep the fan clutch balanced, but thais can be use to see if you still over heat, or if you just don't want to pay the $ for a fixed fan setup. Only downside is it is very noisy since it doesnt flex at all and it is still very heavy so fuel economy will suffer some. Also you will want to seal around the bolts if you dont want a mess because the silicon will go everywhere otherwise.

My friend with his 1500 5.7L surburban did this because he was having issues w/ his A/C not being cold enough in traffic on very hot days (air conditioning condenser also needs the air flow to be efficient). He did the bolt mod first, worked great until the silicone came out and cause his serpentine belt to slip. lol After that he got a new belt and a flex fan and spacer. Now he has nice cold A/C even in traffic in hot weather in Houston.

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Previous-05 CRD KJ;Current-2010 Taurus SHO Twin Turbo (450HP), 2014 Subaru Forester Turbo (stock)

Again.... posts stretch back for years with no verifiable solutions.... except my Toyota fix.

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2006 CRD http://www.UtahPowderCoatings.com/ http://www.gorecon.com/ I'm kind of a big deal.
RL rear bumper, ARB front bumper, Mile Marker winch, Power Tank, Skids by Mopar & Skid Row, RL Super Skink Sliders, 235/85R16 MTR, Air Flow Snorkel, DTT, 4.10 gears, Frankenlift II, Katskin leather, JL Audio stereo, Rosen video.

OK. I am leaving on a trip to Beef Basin today. I changed the oil, I've removed the engine cover (had no impact in past) and I removed the seal at the cowl as T suggested. I am also going to put the lo fan relay back in. I had pulled it during the last trip in hopes that the fan running with the ignition on would help... it had zero impact.

For realz the only thing new I am trying is the removal of the cowl seal.

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2006 CRD http://www.UtahPowderCoatings.com/ http://www.gorecon.com/ I'm kind of a big deal.
RL rear bumper, ARB front bumper, Mile Marker winch, Power Tank, Skids by Mopar & Skid Row, RL Super Skink Sliders, 235/85R16 MTR, Air Flow Snorkel, DTT, 4.10 gears, Frankenlift II, Katskin leather, JL Audio stereo, Rosen video.

The first step in solving the issue is to verify that the temp gauge is roughly accurate, even though it's been dealer calibrated, and even though an egg could be fried on everything under the hood.

An egg only requires 158F to cook, so its a bad analogy at the least.

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2006 CRD GDE ECO/HOT Tunes and TCM swap and HD Mopar Torque Converter, EHM
2003 Jetta TDI 155K all stock
1957 International V8 Diesel

"Roostre" Cogburn might beg to differ:
https://www.safepaysystems.com/rooster/ ... -eggs.html

The gauge reads accurately. I tested with an no contact thermometer, checked several positions on the gauge against temperature on the t-stat housing. They were roughly equal, the effect of the aluminum housing is negligible in the temperature readings. Even at 3/4 I didn't hear the fan come on. These engines only overheat on climbs, where over fueling, locked torque converter, etc.

As for there being no solution, there is always a solution, it just goes into how much you want to modify. Adding a radiator mister, an aux radiator, bigger fan (not necessary bigger but pulls more air), aftermarket radiator, extra coolers etc. all of these would bring temperatures down. Again how much are you willing to spend/do. It just baffles me that Jeep would put this vehicle on the market without knowing that its cooling system can't handle Rocky Mountain passes in the summer.

As for me I will be slowing adding cooling modifications cheapest/easiest first and work my way up until I can climb any pass with the a/c with out the needle passing 3/4. Start by cleaning the radiator and intercooler. Add an hayden heavy duty fan clutch and plastic fan. Replace with fixed fan, get a bigger radiator, fuel return line cooler, add and auxiliary radiator, add a radiator mister. These are the things I will do roughly in order.

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05 Liberty CRD sport
Provent CCV
Hayden Tranny cooler
Samco Si Intercooler hoses

Okay - this time when the temp gauge is on the right side - open the hood and see if the fan is blowing a lot of air.....

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2005 CRD
stuff
Skeptic quod gratis asseritur, gratis negatur

Great. I just got back from a trip to Moab and Colorado. I crawled around on the Moab rock (Hell's Revenge, etc) and climbed from Durango to Silverton, etc. Heat gauge never strayed from just shy of dead center.

The real test is right here at home. . . North Ogden Pass. Two thousand feet climb in two miles of road that will not allow speed high enough to push air through the radiator. I can climb it at 95F ambient air temp without the temp gauge moving.

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'05 Sport CRD 107k miles. NOBODY knows everything.

TJ2,

You neglected to mention if you heard clear engagement of the Hayden clutch. Did you hear a distinct "roar"? If so, what position was your temp gauge needle in when it obviously engaged and has your cluster been recalibrated to read lower?

Will not be installing mine until I do the timing belt, etc.

Thanks,

DOC

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2005 KJ CRD Ltd Detroit TrueTrac Bilsteins G2 GDE "HOT" ECU GDE TCM "Tow Tune" "euro" TC SEGR Weeks Elbow New HG at 130K ARPs Clean CAT aFe Filter Magnaflow Exhaust EHM Cumminos In-Tank Lift Pump Hayden Fan Clutch Nylon Fan VH Enabled with GDE lower shutoff point Recalibrated Temp Gauge Tekonsha Prodigy Sears P-1 ZDDP

If you are not hearing alot of air and clutch fully engagin fan your fan clutch is the issue. It happened to me, it's happened to others, the fan clutch on these jeeps aren't the best. Most people don;t notice its out till they pull a hill w/ torque converter locked. Either replace the fan clutch or go with teh fixed flex fan idea. Either way should fix your issue i would bet.

- Mark

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Previous-05 CRD KJ;Current-2010 Taurus SHO Twin Turbo (450HP), 2014 Subaru Forester Turbo (stock)

Yes DOC, I most definitely heard it come on. My ears don't hear a 'loud roar,' just the sound of a fan coming on. As I stated above, temp gauge stayed right around mid-point. The only time I've ever had a high gauge reading was when the OEM clutch wasn't working. Crawling around in 4 lo is mainly what causes my fan to engage.

JL must have some obstruction in his system. He didn't mention his Point of the Mountain climb is I-15 and he probably was going 70 mph. Wouldn't that create enough air flow to keep the engine cool? It definitely would if there were only a radiator up front without the ac and intercooler blocking air.

Of course, YMMV

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'05 Sport CRD 107k miles. NOBODY knows everything.

TJ2,

Sorry to bother you again, but several of us have additional questions. Has your cluster been recalibrated? This leads to the temp gauge reading significantly lower.

Also, there is concern that the Hayden clutch may engage at too low a temp during normal driving (I.e. not towing or crawling in very hot weather) and thus will hurt fuel consumption.

So, we are very interested in more details of your experience, though it all sounds extremely positive, so far.

Thanks again,

DOC

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2005 KJ CRD Ltd Detroit TrueTrac Bilsteins G2 GDE "HOT" ECU GDE TCM "Tow Tune" "euro" TC SEGR Weeks Elbow New HG at 130K ARPs Clean CAT aFe Filter Magnaflow Exhaust EHM Cumminos In-Tank Lift Pump Hayden Fan Clutch Nylon Fan VH Enabled with GDE lower shutoff point Recalibrated Temp Gauge Tekonsha Prodigy Sears P-1 ZDDP

So yeah... no... it still ran hot. I was doing OK at first but as I got farther south and warmer the heat had to come on over the hills. By the time I got to Green River, the heat had to be blasting 100% of the time. I should add that it's not just hill climbs, it's also going 75mph (speed limit) on the flat highway in the desert. Since it was only in the mid 80's this trip I declare that the problem has actually become worse since changing the fan clutch, t stat and pump. My 4Runner is being prepared for next months trip now since it's not getting any cooler and driving in July with the heat on really sucks your will to live.

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2006 CRD http://www.UtahPowderCoatings.com/ http://www.gorecon.com/ I'm kind of a big deal.
RL rear bumper, ARB front bumper, Mile Marker winch, Power Tank, Skids by Mopar & Skid Row, RL Super Skink Sliders, 235/85R16 MTR, Air Flow Snorkel, DTT, 4.10 gears, Frankenlift II, Katskin leather, JL Audio stereo, Rosen video.

I'd call the dealer, but that isn't often satisfactory. I don't generally hear the fan come on during highway driving because of road noise. I was crawling around Ironton (between Silverton and Ouray in San Juans) and I didn't notice anything until I stopped and got out of the vehicle. I heard it come on while I was getting my camera out. It was like an electric fan getting to temp while stopped and kicking in.

AFAIK, it has not been recalibrated. I was looking at GDE's post showing the temp marks on a cluster not recalibrated and one that had been. My OEM t-stat is supposed to be 176F. That would make my gauge marks the same as the top illustration. . . the one that has not been reflashed.

I don't have a proper thermometer or I'd check coolant temp for you. Today's ambient air temp is going to max out at 71F. I don't think that's warm enough to do any field testing.

I really can't relate to overheating issues. I simply don't have them. I have no reason to doubt my temp gauge because it showed 1/4 last spring (2010) when the t-stat was bad. Replaced that and when the weather heated up, it would peg out to max before the fan was replaced.

No driving I do makes it move out of range. I don't have a trailer, but I do have a nasty little mountain pass right here on the edge of town.

I think the Hayden is the deal. However, if I mounted an aux trans cooler up front, I might put the flex fan back on. My original plan was to put the flex fan on during the summer. That's been moot so far because we've had an abnormally cool spring. My concern is my trans temp.

PS I put some anti-seize on the threads when I did the last fan change over. Hope it helps. It takes an extra pair of hands (for me) to get it off.

good luck

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'05 Sport CRD 107k miles. NOBODY knows everything.

Point of clarity maybe. Some 2005 KJ CRds came from the factory with a temp gauge that was calibrated for the gas engine; there is a TSB on this topic (08-043-05 AUG 05). GDE has a thread on this at http://www.greendieselengineering.com/f ... st/19.page. The first picture in that thread is of the correct CRD gauge readings; the second picture (2nd GDE post) is of a CRD temp gauge INCORRECTLY calibrated for the gas engine. As you can see at 176 degrees there isn't much difference in needle position but as temp on the gauge climbs the difference is significant. In fact one would have to peg or almost peg an INCORRECT gauge for the CRD's overheat protections to cut in. My temp gauge was incorrectly calibrated for the gas engine and has been addressed under the TSB; with a new OEM tstat the needle sits one needle width left of center. One can have the dealer use a scan tool to check the calibration but probably at a cost (about $60 if I recall) or one can partially block the radiator run the engine temp up and use any of several thermometer options to see if the gauge is reading correctly for the CRD.

The Hayden fan clutch is designed to engage at 170 radiator air temp or about 30 degrees below coolant temperature which translates to engaging at a coolant temperature of about 200 degrees well above the OEM 176 degrees and also above the 195 degree tstat that kap's tstat design can use. This is apparently somewhat sooner than a functional (they often no longer are) OEM fan clutch kicks in hence the Hayden will operate to "catch" and stop a rise in temp sooner than a functional OEM fan clutch. The tstat is what controls engine operating temp not the fan although I suppose that in the dead of cold winter it is possible for too much fan to over cool but kap's flex fan did not cause this problem in Colorado winters and it moves more air all of the time than any clutch fan. Bottom line if you are staying with a clutch fan I don't see anyway the Hayden clutch can over cool at any speed or temperature the most IMHO it will do is engage earlier in the overheat cycle and stop it sooner. FYI I have heard that the nylon bladed gas KJ fan is lighter and moves more air than the stock CRD fan and it's a direct bolt on replacement if you want to combine it with a Hayden but I cannot speak from personal experience on this.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

JL - while it was overheating - did you pull to the side of the road - pop the hood and listen to the Fan to check if its blowing a lot of air????
you should be able to hear the difference.

Yes I know you just changed the fan clutch - that's not the question.

FYI - if it is blowing a lot of air - next steps would be pressure checking the system and the radiator cap
(not normally an issue but at 8000 feet - water boils ~197 that could be an issue with a dead pressure cap)

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2005 CRD
stuff
Skeptic quod gratis asseritur, gratis negatur

Long shot from the FSM:



"CAUTION: When installing a serpentine accessory drive belt, the belt MUST be routed correctly. The water pump will be rotating in the wrong direction if the belt is installed incorrectly, causing the engine to overheat. Refer to belt routing label in engine compartment, or refer to Belt Schematics in Cooling System."

I hate to rain, sorrry, on that long shot idea but it applies to the gas engine not the CRD as the CRD water pump is driven off the timing belt not the serp. belt. I don't think that error is possible with a functional timing belt install.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs