OK, so I've searched and researched and need some guidance. None of my searches produced the answer I was looking for.

Working on my wife's 2003 KJ w/the Premium (joke...) Infinity System. I have replaced the OE Head Unit w/an Alpine CDA-117. Used a harness adapter to plug in directly to the OE stereo harness. I also used an adapter to utilize the Steering Wheel speaker controls. All of that is installed and working as it should be.

Now on to my question. I have a set of Alpine SPS-600 6-1/2" speakers that I'm wanting to mount in place of the blown paper Infinity speakers. I would like to do away w/the OE Amp that is on my OE speakers and just let the Alpine HU run the speakers. However... as I've been researching and reading it appears the OE amp powers all 3 speakers (Fr Tweeter, Fr Door, Rr Door) and so is it possible to cut the wires on the harness and just use 2 wires for the new speaker that is now fed off the Alpine HU? If I do this, will it kill the signal to the Rear door speakers? (Note: I don't care about the tweeters... unless there is a way to utilize them too)

Here are some pics and I could use some assistance for sure.

Speaker w/Amp




Dr. Door plugin




If I'm forced to run New Speaker wires to the front speakers, will that kill the signal to the rear speakers? This is getting a bit complicated... or perhaps I'm just making it that way. Had to step back and get some advice.

Thanks

In theory your plan will work, to continue to use the factory amp to power the rear speakers.

The color of the wires are as follows. These are the factory wire colors.

Left front door signal + dark green (from head unit to the amplifier)
left front door signal - brown/red

right front door signal + violet (from head unit to amplifier)
right front door signal - dark blue/red

left dash speaker + yellow/red (from factory amp to speaker)
left dash speaker - yellow/black

right dash speaker + tan/black (from factory amp to speaker)
right dash speaker - orange/red

left rear signal + brown/yellow (from head unit to factory amp)
left rear signal - brown/light blue

right rear signal + dark blue/white (from head unit to factory amp)
right rear signal - dark blue/orange

left rear speaker + white/red (from factory amp to speaker)
left rear speaker - white/black

right rear speaker + tan/violet (from factory amp to speaker)
right rear speaker - tan/black

How it goes is the factory amplifier on each side has two inputs and three outputs. the front door speaker and tweeter both get their signal from the channel for the front door. The rear door speaker channel has its own input and output.

What I would need to know is if the harness adapter you used has a speaker level to line level converter in it. Some factory amplifiers won't take a speaker level (powered) input, so you get a harness with a box. If that's what you have, then you will need to run new wires from the alpine deck's front speaker wires to your new door speakers. That way they will be getting full power from the deck (18 w per channel in your case). If the factory amp is in fact getting a speaker level signal from the alpine deck, (i.e. your adapter was just a plug with some wires) what you could do is cut the front door speaker + and - wires before the amplifier harness connector inside your door, and extend them to reach your new speakers.

This will power the front door speakers directly from the head unit, bypassing the amplifier. The in-dash tweeters will not function (not a big deal, the 3 way alpine speakers should sound pretty nice) and the rear speakers will still be powered by the factory amplifier.

If it were my vehicle, I would try it this way first. What else does your system consist of? Plans for any subwoofer?

_________________
2006 Sport 4X4, Deep Beryl Green, NSG370, NV241J, Lifted with OME 927/948 and Bilstein, JBA 4.5 UCA's, Custom 3" Rear Y-Link Extension and Swaybar Relocation, 265/75-16 Toyo Open Country AT2 tires, Black Plastidipped bumpers, flares, and doors, Pioneer speakers, Alpine head unit, 1200w Phoenix Gold Amp, 12" Dayton Reference sub.

Thanks for the great response!!

Ended up getting the Alpine HU and speakers wired up. I re-used the OE Amp, mounted it to the inside of the door down low (window clears just fine) and extended the +/- wires coming off the amp to the door speakers. Then re-used the OE dash tweeter (not crazy about it, but it works for now) and the door 6-1/2" speakers work well. No future plans to add a Sub. This is my wife's DD and she doesn't care about the Sub, but wanted to be able to play her music loud again... ha. She loves it and it sounds 100 times better now than it did even when new and she drove it off the lot.

Down the road however I may re-wire and use the HU to power the front door speakers, not use the OE tweeters and use the OE Amp to run the rear speakers. She can barely turn it up to 1/2 volume now before it feels like you're ears are going to blow...

Cool, glad you got that worked out. The only thing that concerns me is the resistance of your alpine speakers compared to the factory units. If they have a lower impedance than the factory ones that can be a problem for your amp. Seeing as it's only going to get half volume and it hasn't died yet it'll PROBABLY be fine, just be aware there's that issue.

_________________
2006 Sport 4X4, Deep Beryl Green, NSG370, NV241J, Lifted with OME 927/948 and Bilstein, JBA 4.5 UCA's, Custom 3" Rear Y-Link Extension and Swaybar Relocation, 265/75-16 Toyo Open Country AT2 tires, Black Plastidipped bumpers, flares, and doors, Pioneer speakers, Alpine head unit, 1200w Phoenix Gold Amp, 12" Dayton Reference sub.

I believe the Alpine speakers are 4 ohm. I'm a bit ignorant at the specifics of the OE speakers and how they'd differ f the Alpines. Hopefully they will hold up for many years to come. Thanks again f the post & info.

redsnake,
which alpines did you get, is it SPS600?

_________________
NYC L.O.S.T.# 022174 -
Check out my CarDomain

Yes. Looks like the tweeters (in dash) blew out too. Now I need to find replacements for those & figure out how to get them out...

i have a set or PowerBass tweeters in my WJ grand and they sound great

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003YL3J00/ref ... B003YL3J00

_________________
With enough fabbing, time & $, it's certainly possible.
That being said, it's like boinkin' your sister...just because you can, doesn't mean you should.

Did they blow after or before you set up these speakers? I have been reading that the infinity premium factory system is 2ohm, and your speakers are 4ohm.
Stock tweeters are just small speakers, I think you can find any small speaker or you can go with aftermarket tweeters.
Alternatively you can get a set of components, hook up the tweeters in the dash, and throw the woofer in the back. But I still am not sure about the resistance of your speakers...


Edit: Powerbass is showing 4ohm

_________________
NYC L.O.S.T.# 022174 -
Check out my CarDomain

the grand is a 4ohm setup

http://wjjeeps.com/radios.htm

_________________
With enough fabbing, time & $, it's certainly possible.
That being said, it's like boinkin' your sister...just because you can, doesn't mean you should.

I replaced the OE CD player w an Alpine and the Alpine speakers. I did however reuse the OE Speaker mounted amp. The tweeter I think blew after the new HU... however, they could've been blown before and we didn't notice due to the speakers sounding SO horrible.

4ohm? I read in another topic someone replaced theirs with a 2Ohm infinity aftermarket speakers and they sound great (utilizing factory amp)
What is the risk then?

I also have aftermarket radio, but doesn't the amp determine the resistance, not the radio?
When I swapped my rear speakers with 4ohm kenwoods, there was barely any sound, so I thought system must have been 2ohms... I put the factories back on..

_________________
NYC L.O.S.T.# 022174 -
Check out my CarDomain

I'm not really sure about the 2ohm vs 4ohm part. I'm sure that's a rookie mistake... but I'm fairly certain the tweeters were blown before replacing anything (due to all 4 door speakers being blown out) including the OE Head Unit.

I would really like to remove the OE amp that I reused, but I wasn't sure about running new wires for everything... due to the front wires that run into the OE Amp powering all 3 speakers (3 per side). I may eventually end up going that route, but hopefully not for a while.

I would love to see someone due a step-by-step (with pics) write-up of replacing all the speakers, head unit, amp, etc... of a KJ w/the 'premium' Infinity stereo w/a good quality aftermarket set-up. I've done a lot of searching on various boards to no avail.

I too would appreciate a write up on this subject.

Jeep couldn't have made it any easier on us? haha

_________________
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD limited
SAMCO Boost Hoses
GDE Eco Tune
Detours Backbone bumper
MBRP 2.5 Cat Back Exhaust
OME Suspension
Cragar Soft 8's 15x8
31x10.5 Falkens
Pioneer HU w/ Polk db 651s speakers
MTX RT8PT sub

I just told the stereo shop "I want that stereo, those Rockford Fosgate speakers in the doors, those Boston Acoustics tweeters in the dash ..... install that sub box with 2 - 12" pioneers and this 1000 watt amp, then do the remote start with alarm and I'll be back" !
Sure enough..... I returned 3 hours later and I was Rockin and Thumpin!!!

And I'm an electrician so I know HOW to do it. I just know that I would have spent all day getting the head unit installed and then try to figure out wiring all the speakers, and then run all the cables for the amp and sub ..... I am kind of a perfectionist, so I know I would have spent 3 days doing what is a 3 hour project for them!

Follow-up:

I bought a set of Pioneer 3/4" tweeters and mounted them in the OE dash 'tweeters' ... wired them in and they sound fantastic!! Wife's been running them for about 2+ weeks and she plays her music loud and so far, so good. Hopefully they'll keep sounding good for a long time to come.


On a side note... the darn Radiator now needs to be replaced on her KJ. It's becoming a $$ pit the last several months. New motor and all accessories (not including the AC system), flushed the transmission and had it serviced and not the radiator splits (upper Drivers side) and needs replaced. Also I think her shocks and struts are in need of being replaced. At this rate I'll never get to work/upgrade my 2001 XJ Cherokee....