I put new shocks and struts on my 2008 Limited over the weekend. I've driven it probably 100 since. On Sunday afternoon, the wife and I were out in the Jeep and all of the sudden the tracton control light along with ESP and BAS came on while driving straight (literally) down the road. From what I've read this seems to be from the SAS (steering angle sensor) and I still need to get the alignment done so no biggee there. The issue is, now there seems to be more going on.

I noticed that the cruise didn't work on Sat evening (before the indicator lights as described above). Then, the next morning (Sun), I noticed my remote start would only give me one "honk" and the Jeep wouldn't start via remote. (factory remote start). The same Sunday afternoon, I removed the Jet Chip. Then, yesterday, the CEL lit up on my way home from work. When I got home, I left the batt disconnected for several hours. When I reconnected, no CEL but still had the SAS lights.

Today, on my way home from work again, I got the CEL back.

I can't imagine this is all from the SAS going nuts but could it? I'm going to take it over to Autozone and have them pull the code from the CEL but any additional advice or expeiences would be greatly appreciated.

Oh, for the record this is not the first time I've had the suspension apart. I DID have it aligned when I installed my springs 6-8mos ago.

Thanks!!!

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2010 Ford Mustang GT Premium: MT, 400a spec package, Nav, Sync, Fast.

when the steering was all undone for the lift did the steering wheel get turned too far to one side? does your horn work when you push it on the steering wheel? cruise, horn, air bag, and the esp can all have issues if there is a faulty clockspring. if the horn doesnt work i would put money on it. if it does work it could still be the issue but before spending money you could try a couple other things. It needs an alignment so definitely get that done. I forgot the acronym for it.... that relay box next to the battery. you should have removed the connectors to install the lift, right? i would disconnect the connectors, inspect pins, reconnect, check fuses and make sure the battery connections are tight. i work on aircraft avionics. alot of electrical gremlins come from something someone has recent messed with and sometimes fixes itself when reseating connectors.

I'm getting ready to go have teh codes read. I'll try the horn when I go out, I haven't even considered trying it yet. I did turn the steering wheel (or rather the wheel hub/brake rotors while I was getting to the upper ball joint bolt.

I have tried disconnecting and reconnecting the relay box. That didn't seem to change anything at all. Just to be noted, I do not have an SRS/Airbag light on.

Is this clockspring deal a bad thing, i.e.: airbag deployment in my face while I'm drivin kinda nonsense?

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2010 Ford Mustang GT Premium: MT, 400a spec package, Nav, Sync, Fast.

Another thought: is it possible you loosened an abs sensor or wire when doing the front end? I could see that setting off esp bas lights, but probably wouldn't have anything to do with the remote start.

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2010 KK 4WD BRILLIANT BLACK
Fox/King/Bilstein ATH BUMPERS ATH RACK GY DURATRACS

ATHFAB.com

Ok... The code it threw is P0572.

It's saying that brake valve 1 is open while brake valve 2 is closed.

This makes sense to me because I thought I felt the brakes acting weird today but then again, I thought it was just me.

And the check engine light is soing something cruise control something-something, which makes sense because it's my understanding that the cruise doesn't work if the SAS is causing the TC/ESP/BAS lights to go on.

After they pulled the codes I checked the brake lights, sure enough my brake lights have been stuck oon the entire time. The only one that goes on and off is the third brake light.

Any suggestions? I've got the front wheels off and everything looks ok. It does seem like the brake are dragging up front though. The wheels/rotors don't turn as easy as I think they should. Everything looks ok though. I'm not sure where to go from here.

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2010 Ford Mustang GT Premium: MT, 400a spec package, Nav, Sync, Fast.

Oh... horn works fine, Dirty.

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2010 Ford Mustang GT Premium: MT, 400a spec package, Nav, Sync, Fast.

Brake lights stuck on problem I would be looking at the brake switch which is under the dash on the brake pedal.

Well, it's fixed. Sort of. I was putting everything back together with the plan to drop it off at the shop in the morning. As I did, I kinda wiggled all the connections a bit, reached under the relay box and did the same thing. Put the wheels back on and dropped it back on the ground. I did look under the dash at the brake switch while I had it all apart and it seemed to operate the 3rd light fine but the sides were still lit up as soon as you turn on the key.

Anyway, as I stated, I was putting it back together with the intent of sucking it up and taking it in. After I buttoned everything up, I thought I'd give it one more go. Sure enough, turn of the key revealed the brake lights finally off and functioning as they should. The only light on the dash was the CEL which I should have asked Autozone to reset, I never thought to ask while I was there. I took it for a drive and it's fine now. Even my cruise is working again.

Now to get that CEL reset and an alignment.

I wish I still had my XJ. darn you Jeep for seducing me with a Skyslider and good looks!!


EDIT: This is quite a learning experience to find out what all can cause these warning lights to illuminate. And for the sake of the thread, I never once got an ABS light.

EDIT 2: I forgot to mention that I pulled the battery & relay box on Sunday to check & reconnect everything when all this started. Obviously I still had the problem after doing so.

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2010 Ford Mustang GT Premium: MT, 400a spec package, Nav, Sync, Fast.