Symptom: Vibration that originally started occurring when letting go of the "go" pedal at approximately 40mph down to 20mph. It felt like driving on a "rumble" strip. The issue progressively got worse and became louder and then occurred only when a load is applied to the drive train (accelerating, maintaining speed up grades, etc..). The vibration was loud and could be felt in the cabin. My wife said it felt like it was coming from the front pax side floorboard.

Resolution Attempt No. 1: Since I just started a new job and am putting in 12 hour days, I had my wife drop it off at the local Firestone dealership. They charged her $130 dollars to turn the rotors which they said were warped....the same premium rotors that I just had installed about 9 months ago. Problem was not fixed and then the tech told he he would need an entire day to "find the problem".

Resolution Attempt No. 2: A 2 minute google search lead me to think this was a U-joint problem. I went to Napa to buy replacement U-joints but the USA made ones did not have a grease fitting but the Chinese ones did. I then went to O'reilly's and get USA made ones with lifetime warranties and with grease fittings. Cost about 16 bucks apiece. RENT a u-joint press (combination u-joint/ball joint) tool from an auto parts store. DO NOT USE A BFH and socket method or you risk damaging the bearing caps (ask me how I know). If using the store tool, do NOT use an impact wrench to install the new u-joints....impact wrench is just fine to remove the old u-joints.

I used anti-seize compound as lube for the spline on the front of the rear drive shaft. The spline was very dry and caused a noticeable "clunk" noise when I stopped and accelerated from a full stop. I read that anti-seize compound would last a very long time as compared to regular grease.

Total time was about 2 hours and 3 beers..taking my time as someone who has never done this before.

Hints: Index the drive shaft. use a tranny jack or jack stands to support the drive shaft during removal and install. If you can't get a ring clip on because bearing cap isn't pressed in far enough....the odds are that a roller bearing fell out and preventing the bearing cap from sliding down any further. Keep beer in a cooler, it gets warm quickly in 83 deg F sunny Colorado days.

Next weeks job: new axle on pax side.....it clunks hard in slow speed sharp turns.

Due in 1800 miles: Timing belt, water pump, new fan clutch, etc...etc...etc...I can hardly wait.

Hello there,

As a former CRD owner, I guess you should check the engine mounts, starting from the right one. Both mounts failed in my Jeep but however they were not that expensive. You wont see anything wrong with them externally - its a bolt inside them that comes loose and makes them rattle. Try and search the forum for engine mounts and you will see many cases where people describe similar symptoms.

Best regards,
Hjalti

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Liberty 2006, silver, CRD Limited, MOAB wheels Goodyear MTRs 245/75 (summer) 255/70 studded tires on original rims (winter), 30 mm lift, full MOPAR skid plates, tow bar and tow hooks, THULE Pacific 100 luggage box. 33,000 miles.

CJ-2A 1946 Normandy blue, ? miles, 600x16 non-directional, second owner...