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My search-fu with this forum has never been that great, and while I think that Google crawls the forum too, and might be able to be a good search tool... I haven't messed with it to know for sure.
Oil pressure was the result, not really the reason. The underlying cause that I have discovered is that our turbos are too close to their design limits, even on a fully stock engine. I had one turbo fail catastrophically, the shaft snapped and seized (or the other way around) and the engine blew all the oil out into the exhaust in less than 30 seconds. I didn't know this had happened until it was too late. I knew the turbo had failed (once I stopped moving and could hear it rattling) but I didn't know that the oil wasn't getting to the pistons. The oil pressure light never came on.
Replaced the turbo, refilled the oil that I knew was low (4qts) and 10 miles later on the test drive, the oil and my #1 piston left through a shrapnel-shaped hole in the oil pan. The cylinder sleeve and piston were all gone. Nothing larger than 1 inch survived in that piston, and the #2 wouldn't have been far behind it.
Replaced engine, still same brand-new turbo... Discovered that new turbo has a sticking vane problem. B/c I didn't have a working vehicle for 5 months to test turbo... Can't do anything about it now. Great.
Pulled turbo AGAIN, put in used turbo that came with replacement engine. Worked great for 40k miles with a GDE eco-tune and non-abusive driving... Turbo shaft bearings fail out, start leaking out oil AGAIN, and AGAIN with no pressure warning light. Only the SOUND that could have easily been missed was an indicator for me to check on it.
Put sticking brand-new turbo back in... Running on that now, waiting patiently for what I hope to be the LAST EVER turbo replacement - GDE's bulletproof turbo kit.
I don't flog my vehicles. I do tow, but when I have something hitched behind it, I know that it isn't a race car. Slow to accelerate, slow to stop, and always leave the engine running when towing heavy to keep the oil moving. That is how I drive it, just like a trucker would... And see what has happened.
I beat the SNOT out of a Jetta TDI that I had, with all the grannies on the TDIclub board insisting that those were fragile vehicles and prone to turbo failures and engine problems. I had none of that. What I had were too many tickets, and mileage that wouldn't go BELOW 30mpg, except when I had a blown injector line (my own fault caused that) and even then... on 3 cylinders it STILL got 15mpg and did 800 miles before I could stop and fix it. The engine got a very thorough washing with diesel fuel during that trip, spraying the entire engine bay the whole way. Shows how safe #2 fuel is!
Point being... The VW crowd doesn't know what fragile is. Our CRD... I'm inclined to believe is anything BUT "trail rated" without a SERIOUS amount of reinforcement and better parts than what it came with.
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Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.
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