Rims fitment - completely lost

Slava · **Posted:** Tue Oct 25, 2011 4:46 pm

After reading through the whole forum I feel I'm completely lost :dizzy:

so I would appreciate some clarifications and corrections. I have 2007 Limited which has 17"x7.5" OEM rims with 0mm offset and 5.5" backspacing, am I right? The width is 7.5", not 7"? Now, because of limited choice of tires in 17" stock 235/65 I'm thinking of switching to 16" wheels and I really like DC-2 rims which are 16"x8" with -12mm offset and 4" backspacing. According to offset fitment calculator switch from 7.5" + 0mm offset to 8" + (-12)mm offset is fine, it is even move rim little bit further from suspension parts but switch from 5.5" backspacing to 4" is a problem. So in order to run these rims I will need 1.25" spacers, right? Another option is MT Classic which are 16"x8" 4.5" backspacing and 0mm offset, can I run them without spacers? I think I will look for 235 or 245/70R16 tires.

tommudd · **Posted:** Tue Oct 25, 2011 4:52 pm

Where to start
First 8 inch wide wheels are way to wide for a 235-70 or 245-70 tire, you need to stay with a 7 inch wide wheel
Second if you used a 8 inch wheel with 4 inches of backspacing and then a spacer you'd have the tires 2 inches past the flare and not be able to turn the wheels at all
If you are not lifted then you'll need to stay as close as possible to the stock wheel width and backspacing
if lifted then 16X7 with 4 inches of backspacing will work or 8 inch wheel with 5 inches of backspacing

Slava · **Posted:** Tue Oct 25, 2011 5:02 pm

tommudd wrote:

Where to start
First 8 inch wide wheels are way to wide for a 235-70 or 245-70 tire, you need to stay with a 7 inch wide wheel
Second if you used a 8 inch wheel with 4 inches of backspacing and then a spacer you'd have the tires 2 inches past the flare and not be able to turn the wheels at all
If you are not lifted then you'll need to stay as close as possible to the stock wheel width and backspacing
if lifted then 16X7 with 4 inches of backspacing will work or 8 inch wheel with 5 inches of backspacing

Not sure that I understand. If my wheels will go past the flares I won't be able to turn them? That means this is impossible at all? And if I want just to add spacers for the better look this is also impossible because my wheels will be past the flares?

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Tue Oct 25, 2011 5:17 pm

Slava wrote:

tommudd wrote:

Where to start
First 8 inch wide wheels are way to wide for a 235-70 or 245-70 tire, you need to stay with a 7 inch wide wheel
Second if you used a 8 inch wheel with 4 inches of backspacing and then a spacer you'd have the tires 2 inches past the flare and not be able to turn the wheels at all
If you are not lifted then you'll need to stay as close as possible to the stock wheel width and backspacing
if lifted then 16X7 with 4 inches of backspacing will work or 8 inch wheel with 5 inches of backspacing

Not sure that I understand. If my wheels will go past the flares I won't be able to turn them? That means this is impossible at all? And if I want just to add spacers for the better look this is also impossible because my wheels will be past the flares?

You will rub and break stuff(IE fender flares and front bumper) when you try and turn the steering wheel with 16x8 rims with 4" of back spacing on a non-lifted KJ.Un-lifted you need to stick to the OEM rim specs of 7" wide with 5.5" of backspacing.Depending on the amount of sag in your coils you maybe able to run a 16x7 rim with 4" of backspacing if you keep the tire size no bigger then 235/70 with a highway tread tire or "P" rated AT.

I couldn't run a 16x8 rim with 3.75" of backspacing without major rub with 3.75" of lift.

Slava · **Posted:** Tue Oct 25, 2011 10:19 pm

I believe to your experience folks but I would like to fully understand reasons. Meanwhile it doesn't fit to the picture in my mind. Let's say I install spacers with the stock tires, they will push wheels out a little bit and I don't see how this could cause rubbing/breakage of fender flares. I thought that only overall diameter of the wheel and the width of the tire itself can cause rubbing. I will appreciate if you can elaborate in more details the reasons behind this issue.

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Tue Oct 25, 2011 10:51 pm

Slava wrote:

I believe to your experience folks but I would like to fully understand reasons. Meanwhile it doesn't fit to the picture in my mind. Let's say I install spacers with the stock tires, they will push wheels out a little bit and I don't see how this could cause rubbing/breakage of fender flares. I thought that only overall diameter of the wheel and the width of the tire itself can cause rubbing. I will appreciate if you can elaborate in more details the reasons behind this issue.

Simple way for yourself to see................

Go to hobby store and buy some 2" thick foam sheets,cut out 2 round pieces the diameter of your tires and tape them to the outside of your front tires/wheels.Then have someone turn the wheels lock to lock and you will see what Tom and myself are talking about.

Plus like stated a 235 tire is way to thin to mount on a 8" wide rim,the installer will really hate you.

tommudd · **Posted:** Tue Oct 25, 2011 11:04 pm

Turn the wheel half way in the front, get out and look at where it sits in the wheel well, now think of it 1.5 to 2 inches farther out, it will hit the front lower part of the bumper/rear of the fenderwell and the flares depending on how much you turn

Slava · **Posted:** Wed Oct 26, 2011 11:02 am

tommudd wrote:

Turn the wheel half way in the front, get out and look at where it sits in the wheel well, now think of it 1.5 to 2 inches farther out, it will hit the front lower part of the bumper/rear of the fenderwell and the flares depending on how much you turn

Thank's Tom, I did what you proposed and realized what is the problem with going wider. :shock:

tommudd · **Posted:** Wed Oct 26, 2011 11:31 am

Great I know its hard to explain at times but when looking at it then you start to understand. Not a lot of room in the fenderwells really for much unless you lift and then still limited somewhat.
Good luck! :wink:

black and blue · **Posted:** Wed Oct 26, 2011 6:28 pm

if you stick with the stock rims and the stock tires size, 1.25" wheel spacers give it a nice stance and you still have about an inch of clearance from the well (mine does anyway)

i installed spidertrax yesterday in preparation for my lift and bigger tires, and it already looks a lot better

I'm not gunna lie tho... I know the lift will pull the front tires in, but i'm worried about the rear tires hitting my fender flares now :roll:

Slava · **Posted:** Wed Oct 26, 2011 9:38 pm

black and blue wrote:

if you stick with the stock rims and the stock tires size, 1.25" wheel spacers give it a nice stance and you still have about an inch of clearance from the well (mine does anyway)

i installed spidertrax yesterday in preparation for my lift and bigger tires, and it already looks a lot better

I'm not gunna lie tho... I know the lift will pull the front tires in, but i'm worried about the rear tires hitting my fender flares now :roll:

Can you please post pictures how it looks? I mean stock wheels with Spidertrax spacers.

black and blue · **Posted:** Thu Oct 27, 2011 7:05 pm

i may have forgot to mention i have a kk rather than a kj

there are so many similarities, but never having owned a kj, I am not very familiar with the little variations between the two

Slava · **Posted:** Fri Oct 28, 2011 11:34 am

black and blue wrote:

i may have forgot to mention i have a kk rather than a kj

there are so many similarities, but never having owned a kj, I am not very familiar with the little variations between the two

Thx. Looks very nice.

black and blue · **Posted:** Fri Oct 28, 2011 4:31 pm

i have seen pictures of KJs with spacers on this forum. you may want to look around

Rims fitment - completely lost

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