HID headlights causing CEL??

secondechomatt · **Posted:** Thu Nov 03, 2011 10:25 pm

those are nice, but not quite the size I'm wanting. They are also not being produced anymore.

Thanks for the link though!

rossignol292 · **Posted:** Tue Nov 08, 2011 7:09 pm

I just hooked up my capacitors and took it for a test drive. Everything works fine the way it's wired now. I switched the HIDs on multiple times and never got a CEL. Keep in mind I only drove it for 10 minutes, but that seemed to do the job. These are the capacitors I used:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/280756578601?ss ... 216wt_1149

spitfire36o · **Posted:** Wed Nov 09, 2011 3:58 pm

rossignol292 wrote:

I just hooked up my capacitors and took it for a test drive. Everything works fine the way it's wired now. I switched the HIDs on multiple times and never got a CEL. Keep in mind I only drove it for 10 minutes, but that seemed to do the job. These are the capacitors I used:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/280756578601?ss ... 216wt_1149

Nice. I ordered mine today. Do you still have a direct power feed from the battery with a relay hooked up to the stock headlight harness? I will try to install this directly to the stock wiring connections and update all when they are in.

rossignol292 · **Posted:** Wed Nov 09, 2011 4:04 pm

I have them hooked up to a relay that's directly connected to the battery. the relay is triggered by a separate switch in the cab. I would love to know if they work hooked up straight to the stock wiring harnesses. It would save me some trouble if they didn't.

spitfire36o · **Posted:** Tue Nov 15, 2011 1:32 pm

rossignol292 wrote:

I have them hooked up to a relay that's directly connected to the battery. the relay is triggered by a separate switch in the cab. I would love to know if they work hooked up straight to the stock wiring harnesses. It would save me some trouble if they didn't.

So they do not work when run inline with the stock wiring. I am going to try running direct power from the battery in a fused line to a relay. The relay will be activated by the stock in cab headlight switch.

vshockey10 · **Joined:** Tue Apr 19, 2011 9:28 am **Posts:** 59

spitfire36o wrote:

rossignol292 wrote:

I have them hooked up to a relay that's directly connected to the battery. the relay is triggered by a separate switch in the cab. I would love to know if they work hooked up straight to the stock wiring harnesses. It would save me some trouble if they didn't.

So they do not work when run inline with the stock wiring. I am going to try running direct power from the battery in a fused line to a relay. The relay will be activated by the stock in cab headlight switch.

So the only way to not get the CEL is to run a separate switch and 2 capacitors (http://www.ebay.com/itm/280756578601?ss ... 264wt_1149)????

SPN-87 · **Joined:** Tue Mar 09, 2010 3:09 pm **Posts:** 53

Just example http://www.drive2.ru/cars/jeep/cherokee ... 5156/#post
No CEL

spitfire36o · **Posted:** Thu Feb 16, 2012 12:40 pm

-I have the ballasts wrapped in electrical tape to try to limit the interference output
-I installed the in-line ebay capacitors
-I have them wired with direct power from the battery with a relay hooked to the stock headlight switch
-I still get a CEL
-Since uploading the GDE Hot tune, if i turn the lights on whiledriving, it will send the car into limp mode for 3-5 seconds. I will no be able to rev over 2500 rpm.

My next try will be to install a marine rated, waterproof 2 farad capacitor designed for stereo systems. I hoping this will block the power surge to the stock electrical systems when the ballasts ignite the bulb.

Side note- they are 55w HID's

DynoPax · **Posted:** Tue Feb 21, 2012 12:39 pm

I must say, it's a killer look with the projector inside the painted headlamp housing... I am looking into such a mod, found this seemingly very good site:

http://www.theretrofitsource.com/index.php

More expensive than ebay but also looks more reliable...

secondechomatt · **Posted:** Sat Mar 03, 2012 9:47 pm

I am ordering their bi-xenon morimoto mini H1 kit. They make it with the 9007 adapters which will work for our jeeps. It will also give me a great projector, hi-beam ability and amazing light output without GLARE!

It's really plug and play, outside of baking the lights to separate the lenses.

DynoPax · **Posted:** Mon Mar 05, 2012 2:21 am

secondechomatt wrote:

I am ordering their bi-xenon morimoto mini H1 kit. They make it with the 9007 adapters which will work for our jeeps. It will also give me a great projector, hi-beam ability and amazing light output without GLARE!

It's really plug and play, outside of baking the lights to separate the lenses.

Nice

Some pics when you are done installing them would be welcome too...

vshockey10 · **Joined:** Tue Apr 19, 2011 9:28 am **Posts:** 59

spitfire36o wrote:

-I have the ballasts wrapped in electrical tape to try to limit the interference output
-I installed the in-line ebay capacitors
-I have them wired with direct power from the battery with a relay hooked to the stock headlight switch
-I still get a CEL
-Since uploading the GDE Hot tune, if i turn the lights on whiledriving, it will send the car into limp mode for 3-5 seconds. I will no be able to rev over 2500 rpm.

My next try will be to install a marine rated, waterproof 2 farad capacitor designed for stereo systems. I hoping this will block the power surge to the stock electrical systems when the ballasts ignite the bulb.

Side note- they are 55w HID's

I have the hot tune also and it does the exact same thing. Lmk if you find a cure

vshockey10 · **Joined:** Tue Apr 19, 2011 9:28 am **Posts:** 59

I found out that if I turn the lights on before I start the CRD no check engine light comes on.

KalleXX · **Posted:** Wed Sep 23, 2015 5:42 pm

spitfire36o wrote:

-I have the ballasts wrapped in electrical tape to try to limit the interference output
-I installed the in-line ebay capacitors
-I have them wired with direct power from the battery with a relay hooked to the stock headlight switch
-I still get a CEL
-Since uploading the GDE Hot tune, if i turn the lights on whiledriving, it will send the car into limp mode for 3-5 seconds. I will no be able to rev over 2500 rpm.

My next try will be to install a marine rated, waterproof 2 farad capacitor designed for stereo systems. I hoping this will block the power surge to the stock electrical systems when the ballasts ignite the bulb.

Side note- they are 55w HID's

I have exactly the same problem as salden77.
Mine HIDs are a pair of 55 W aux (H3, 4300 Kelvin), activated through a relay hooked to the stock headlight switch.
I'll install a pair of Warning Cancellers/HID decoders.
I let you all know if this works or not.

EDIT: The problem (CEL on ...) did not go away with the Warning Cancellers/HID decoders

Any suggestions what to do next are welcome

br
KalleXX

mass-hole · **Posted:** Wed Sep 23, 2015 6:49 pm

KalleXX wrote:

spitfire36o wrote:

-I have the ballasts wrapped in electrical tape to try to limit the interference output
-I installed the in-line ebay capacitors
-I have them wired with direct power from the battery with a relay hooked to the stock headlight switch
-I still get a CEL
-Since uploading the GDE Hot tune, if i turn the lights on whiledriving, it will send the car into limp mode for 3-5 seconds. I will no be able to rev over 2500 rpm.

My next try will be to install a marine rated, waterproof 2 farad capacitor designed for stereo systems. I hoping this will block the power surge to the stock electrical systems when the ballasts ignite the bulb.

Side note- they are 55w HID's

I have exactly the same problem as salden77.
Mine HIDs are a pair of 55 W aux (H3, 4300 Kelvin), activated through a relay hooked to the stock headlight switch.
I'll install a pair of Warning Cancellers/HID decoders.
I let you all know if this works or not.

br
KalleXX

Our jeeps monitor resistance across the bulbs to make sure they are working. When you put HID's in they can cause the CANBUS to think that the headlight is out/malfunctioning. When I did my 50W Bi-Xenon Projectors, I had to buy a special harness for Mopar Canbus vehicles which uses inline resistors to fake it into thinking the regular halogens are there. I think this is what I needed, but I had bixenons, not just a regular bulb in place of the halogens:

http://www.theretrofitsource.com/components/harnesses/morimoto-mopar-9007-9004-xenon-relay-wire-harness.html#.VgMtf99VhBc

Srytrucker · **Posted:** Sat Sep 26, 2015 10:55 am

My HID experience wasn't a pleasant one. 55w caused a lot of drivers to react agressively, honking and middle finger salutes were part of pleasantries , then I used 35 w till it almost burned the jeep down. There was a small electrical fire in one headlight and my fog light hosing was almost melted. So for now I m using stock bulbs which are crappy to say the least.

mass-hole · **Posted:** Mon Sep 28, 2015 6:32 pm

Srytrucker wrote:

My HID experience wasn't a pleasant one. 55w caused a lot of drivers to react agressively, honking and middle finger salutes were part of pleasantries , then I used 35 w till it almost burned the jeep down. There was a small electrical fire in one headlight and my fog light hosing was almost melted. So for now I m using stock bulbs which are crappy to say the least.

You gotta go with a full Bi-Xenon retrofit, otherwise the pitiful stock reflectors are just going to scatter the light. My headlights were incredible after I did my retrofit.

KalleXX · **Posted:** Mon Oct 12, 2015 4:53 pm

mass-hole wrote:

KalleXX wrote:

spitfire36o wrote:

-I have the ballasts wrapped in electrical tape to try to limit the interference output
-I installed the in-line ebay capacitors
-I have them wired with direct power from the battery with a relay hooked to the stock headlight switch
-I still get a CEL
-Since uploading the GDE Hot tune, if i turn the lights on whiledriving, it will send the car into limp mode for 3-5 seconds. I will no be able to rev over 2500 rpm.

My next try will be to install a marine rated, waterproof 2 farad capacitor designed for stereo systems. I hoping this will block the power surge to the stock electrical systems when the ballasts ignite the bulb.

Side note- they are 55w HID's

I have exactly the same problem as salden77.
Mine HIDs are a pair of 55 W aux (H3, 4300 Kelvin), activated through a relay hooked to the stock headlight switch.
I'll install a pair of Warning Cancellers/HID decoders.
I let you all know if this works or not.

br
KalleXX

Our jeeps monitor resistance across the bulbs to make sure they are working. When you put HID's in they can cause the CANBUS to think that the headlight is out/malfunctioning. When I did my 50W Bi-Xenon Projectors, I had to buy a special harness for Mopar Canbus vehicles which uses inline resistors to fake it into thinking the regular halogens are there. I think this is what I needed, but I had bixenons, not just a regular bulb in place of the halogens:

http://www.theretrofitsource.com/components/harnesses/morimoto-mopar-9007-9004-xenon-relay-wire-harness.html#.VgMtf99VhBc

Hi!

The problem is that I get a Check Engine Light warning as soon as the HIDs are activated through the relays. The HIDs are installed in a pair of auxiliary lights (extra headlights, high beam only). There is no bulb warning. The relays are activated by the stock high beam signal (i.e. I had to split the stock harness). The relays are connected to the batterie + 12 V and the ground is taken from the chassie.
I have no clue what to do next. Any suggestions?

Br
KalleXX

PALiftedKK · **Posted:** Mon Oct 12, 2015 6:13 pm

KalleXX wrote:

Hi!

The problem is that I get a Check Engine Light warning as soon as the HIDs are activated through the relays. The HIDs are installed in a pair of auxiliary lights (extra headlights, high beam only). There is noo bulb warning. The relays are activated by the stock high beam signal (i.e. I had to split the stock harness). The relays are connected to the batterie + 12 V and the ground is taken from the chassie.
I have no clue what to do next. Any suggestions?

Br
KalleXX

positive to positive, negative to negative.

isolate the battery if need to be.
http://www.amazon.com/Tekonsha-7000-Terminal-Battery-Isolator/dp/B0002UHVYQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1444687837&sr=8-2&keywords=12+volt+isolator

KalleXX · **Posted:** Thu Oct 15, 2015 7:23 pm

PALiftedKK wrote:

KalleXX wrote:

Hi!

The problem is that I get a Check Engine Light warning as soon as the HIDs are activated through the relays. The HIDs are installed in a pair of auxiliary lights (extra headlights, high beam only). There is noo bulb warning. The relays are activated by the stock high beam signal (i.e. I had to split the stock harness). The relays are connected to the batterie + 12 V and the ground is taken from the chassie.
I have no clue what to do next. Any suggestions?

Br
KalleXX

positive to positive, negative to negative.

isolate the battery if need to be.
http://www.amazon.com/Tekonsha-7000-Terminal-Battery-Isolator/dp/B0002UHVYQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1444687837&sr=8-2&keywords=12+volt+isolator

Thank you!

I´ll try that later, perhaps. The test I did with the error canceller kit was maybe not conclusive. I am suspecting that the canceller kit did not use capacitors, resistors only. I have ordered a canceler kit that specifically states it contains capacitors.
New try.

I let you know how it goes.

KalleXX

HID headlights causing CEL??

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